The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIII, Issue 7, 18 August 1909, Page 68

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

The Fickleness of Fashion. FASHION is cruel: there is no doubt about that. She beams upon a mode one day and the next day frowns upon it. But, like many real women, this mythical dame repents of her barbarous treatment, and, turning to another frame of mind, makes the prettiest amends for her unkindness. That is why, when Buch an ultimatum as this, “Short sleeves are absolutely barred,” or “The fish-tail train is ‘ off,’ ” meets the eye of the Btudent of fashion, she smiles and says, “Just wait a while and see.” In a little time back come short sleeves and back ponies the wisp-like train. Fashion is proving her sorrow for her fickleness, and has found that though novelty is Bharming, old friends are best. It is, however, the bounden duty of the chronicler of the modes to herald

She arrival of new vogues and to give publicity to those that are likely to Wane in popularity. Common sense teaches us that retirement is likely to be the bourne of those Styles that have enjoyed the greatest patronage during the winter. It stands io reason that none of the dressmakers and milliners want to make over and over again frocks and hats that are already in the possession of their customers. Trade would be a tenthly pool! pffair under such circumstances. Jt 3 The Contest for Supremacy. A friendly contest is now proceeding among the different types of dress that are striving for supremacy, to which fact fe accountable the conglomeration Of modes to be seen at the meeting plaoea <ot Society at present*

In Paris the Directoire is banished absolutely, yet at u very well-known centre of fashion in London the other day, where the coming modes of the season were being displayed, the tailor-made suits were almost all built on the straight lines of the Directoire vogue. The coats were of three-quarter length, with one scam sleeves and shoulder pieces attached, and the baek centre panel, lines that make so palpably for angularity. The skirts were very narrow and sparsely trimmed with a few round buttons, and the costume was evidently worn over the maillot suit without any petticoats. At another exclusive centre of the inodes a court toilette was introduced, and it was immediately discovered that the presiding genius of this establishment is determined to keep the picturesque Empire gown before our eyes. The dress had quite a short bodice, embroidered with silver, crystals and paillettes, and the skirt was gracefully draped from the high waist to form a box pleat at the back. Allied to the tiny corsage was a clinging tunic, one mass of delicate embroidery in silk, silver, crystals and paillettes, slashed at intervals to show a bordering of delicate pink velvet fringed with crystals. TUNIC TRIUMPHANT IN EVERY CASE. Upon one point all the. designers seem to be agreed. The tunic is to be glorified enormously, and is to make an appearance in conjunction with all the toilettes, or nearly all, they produce. There are numberless varieties of it, and a plethora of ways in which it may be trimmed. The latest idea is certainly the plainest, comprising, as it does, a band of stitched silk. It is bestowed upon the cloth frock tunic, and the silk that is used is our old friend surah, destined to be raised once more to the pinnacle of smartness in company with other ancient favourites such as moire and corded silk. THAT DECORATIVE JACKET, THE ZOUAVE. Any amount of use can be made in the designing of corsages and blouses of the universally becoming little jacket, the zouave. Let us suppose the skirt of the gown to be made of black satin cloth, very probably purchased ready to put on. The bodice should be made of satin cloth to match as regards the zouave and sleeves, over a guimpe of white mousse-

line ornamented with brassieres that introduce a note of colour into the scheme. In keeping with fashion’s predilection the shoulder straps might be carried out in orange ottoman silk with a tracery of fine chenille over it. They should be tucked into a plaque of the same em-

broidered in a vermicelli design with chenille, which decorative medium should also be applied to the under-sleeves, though they must be carried out in cloth. The vogue for the net chemisette and under-sleeves that match is a bygone one.

Coloured Straws Appear. The new fancy straws are being issued in every colour, and, save with regard to the d’Artagnan model, it is not likely that magpie schexoes in Nack, and white will be popular. .But for the d’Artagnan model there is likely to be a great request. ft is a hat that survives all vicissitudes, arriving again and again at a pinnacle of popularity. This is not surprising, for its lines are most artistic. Much sagacity and self-criticism should be brought to bear upon the choice of a hat made of coloured straw. Straw is apt to exercise a hardening influence over the face at the best of times, and in cold weather the disagreement that may occur between the tones of the complexion and those of the millinery worn is likely to be far from becoming. There is a new red that goes by the name of Pompeian that is a safe choice for the majority of people; but hesitate before ordering a chapeau of that cold shade of blue known as hyacinth. Verdigris is a green without any of the trying brilliancy of the baize and Empire shades, and a soft pink known as petale de rose is an alternative of charming influence. Tilleul or lime green is a trying shade when the countenance looks pinched and purple with eold.

New Materials for Scarfs. One of the latest ideas in scarfs is that the ends shall be ornamented. This is generally done with a knotted fringe, above which there may be some embroidery. China crepe, chiffon, soft, pliable silks and satins, as well as gold, silver and aluminium net and coloured laces, are all used for the construction of the new scarfs. These are two and ahalf to three yards long, but not more than three-quarters of a yard wide. Ona of the prettiest of the new marabout scarfs was five narrow strips of this fluffy feather trimming sewed on a ground of thin silk, which is sometimes a contrasting colour to the marabout, and as the feather strips are separated by several

Made of gold mesh posed upon soft gold satin, and bordered with black velvet applique upon gold tissue. A colonel “plume” is worn in the hair rising from a diamond boss. inches, the scarf is most attractive. A scarf of China crepe has embroidered figures scattered at intervals along the edges and Hie ends finished with deep fringe. Some of the scarfs of openwork silk material, chiffon, ot marquisette, have tiny beads woven in the materia!, the beads being of the same or a contrasting colour.

Silk Ties and Cravats. Narrow four-in-hand ties in pastel tints and soft shades of the new colours, are shown in satin-finished crepe, and are intended to be worn with the stiff linen high collars or with the Dutch collar made of heavy linen and either embroidered or hemstitched. Pretty little si!k cravats to wear with high lingerie collars fasten in front underneath the bow, which is made of several loops and long ends, which are again decorated with a set of loops four inches below the neek-

The band which goes around the dm* is a great help in keeping Lin soft, high collar in place about the neckCoats set in heavy lace, hngerie ami embroidered pique and linen make dteeirable and becoming additions to tliu plain, tailored street suit. They are essentially artides for spring and eumnmr wear, and each recurring season sees them more attractive than the Bast. 'ffbjs year it is the Irish eroehet arhfch NjJliS first place. Coloured erubrotkery has quite disappeared for the eoat hat, though it is still seen to> a timited a*teut On jabots and stiff linen eolhutss.

FOR BLONDE AND BRUNETTE, For Brunette.—Two long quills edged with green, corresponding with the twin* of green velvet.

Tbe latest thing in head decoration is shown In Fig 4. The hair is done fairly close to the head, and on it fa • wreath of perfumed gardenias. In Fig. 5 we have an example of the youthful coiffure of the moment, slightly Grecian in effect, with a band of silver tissue holding up the hair. If well carried out, this is immensely becoming to some girls, especially if they have good features. Like every other successful fashion in coiffure, it requires very skilful treatment.