Filet and Chiffon.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 18, 28 October 1908, Page 71

Filet and Chiffon.

Wbnbroidered fikd net allovers and borders'look their prettiest when combined with the sheerest of chiffons and without imppleinentary trimmings save tuck treatments. They make ideal evening gowns for spring and summer and are much affected by women who spend much time at seaside resorts, as neither chiffon nor filet is readily Wilted by dampness. A dinner gown of this character,built over thin white satin, has a gored and trained skirt, side tucked into the waistband. Below the knees is set a broad band of allover embroidered filet arranged in oblong sections, with pointed ends touching, bordered with filet insertion. This

trimming scheme is twice repeated, entre deux ■with clusters of five wide tueksj the bottom of the skirt finishedwith a deep hem. The track of the bodiee is of the pin-tucked chiffon, the front loosely draped with the allover embroidered lace, beneath a square yoke and stock of bebe Irish, and over the shoulders is a shawl drapery of pin-tucked chiffon and filet bands, with ends extended to the waistline, back and front, and points drooping over top of elbow sleeves composed of a series of embroidered filet, chiffonedged ruffles. Miniature galloons, matching the oblongs trimming the skirt, form the girdle which closes at the back under silk chenille ornaments and tassels. ■JS JI The New Lingerie Robes. The most fashionable lingerie frock of the hour looks like nothing so much as an. infant’s embroidered robe on a larger scale. Made of lingerie and lace, nothing can equal its prettiness in line and detail. An interesting item is the clever ■way in which the skirt is attached to the bodice with a band of embroidered beading, through which is drawn Liberty isatin ribbon in white or soft shades of pink and blue.

The waist-line of these robes is slightly

raised, and the skirts fall with no fulness over the front and sides, and with just enough in the back to provide a becoming widening over the hips. Of course, the distinctive feature is the wonderful lace and embroidery which is used in such, novel ways. Tiny medallions and motifs are inset with flat surrounds of Valenciennes; hand-made tucks are another favourite decoration, while the Greek-key influence still retains its popularity.

Coarse meshed lace, contrasting oddly with the filmy lingerie, is also effectively used in combination with Valenciennes and narrow insertions of Baby Irish lace. Tinted floral embroidery is also to be seen on the lingerie robe, and of all the flowers seen the rose is the •best-liked; though violets and pansy effects are equally beautiful. The stems of the flowers are outlined in French knots, and the centres of the full-blown flowers are frequently worked in French knots. These tinted effects, strange to say, clean very well, the delicate colouring rarely fading perceptibly. Transparent Scarf Draperies. Bordered chiffon and muslin pelerines accompany many of the dainties of the lingerie gowns, and are wonderfully useful accessories for midsummer’ weather. They are three-pointed, and so arranged that one point reaches to the back of the waistline, the other two extending to the knees in front, the fullness being so plaited over the shoulders that only the upper portion of the arms are concealed. Sometimes these chiffon scarfs are finished with borders of white silk or heavy lace, and again there is a flowered border of chiffon, hand-painted, in natural tints. J* Verandah and Evening Wraps. Verandah and evening wraps of the simplersort, ..used chiefly over fluffy gowns for summer, are of heavy, coarse lace, lined With taffeta, made on the straight flowing lines of the kenreign silk br mohair motoring garment, but with wide, loose-wristed sleeves, and without a collar of any description. The bernouse aupears in soft white silks lined with China weaves, or of chiffon cloth, silkfaced and bordered With coloured silk or embroidery. Other evening wraps entirely of net, embroidered or braided, and lined and bordered with plain, broad white satin bands, are of chasuble shape, and easily adjusted. Maline and Chiffon Ruffs. Another novelty in neckwear is the Pierrot ruff. It is somewhat on the boa order of maline, ribbon or chiffon, but fits snugly about the neck and fastens by hooks and eyes beneath a made bow, which is not set at the front, but at the side or the back. This style of dressing the neck, while far more becoming to the long-throated! woman than is the stiff, pointed-edged lace collar, is not in keeping with every shape of hat. With a " boat ” or a turban, in fact, the tight ruff would look absurd, but witli a picture hat, such as those trimmed heavily

with flowers or feathers, the flufly type of neck dressing would help to balance the broad brim.