The World of Fashion

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 13, 23 September 1908, Page 70

The World of Fashion

In Anticipation of the Summer.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Very novel and attractive are hats with the shape tightly covered with Shantung silk, the brims being lined with Yeddn. In holla nd colour, with the lining and ribbon trimming of black, this is a verj popular method of expressing what is known as the simple “tailor-made” hat. On others of this type made of straw, ribbons ar.? rendered particularly attractive by being pinned in two or three places with large hat-pins, bearing monster knobs formed of the straw'. Artificial Howers bloom in great profusion. and every season seems to see them in greater perfection. The roses

are more lovely than ever this year, muslin, silk, and velvet alike being used for their advantage. The lingerie House is to rule supreme with all the coats and skirts, and many are the devices in » cktios and eol.ars. The most attractive of these undoubtedly are expensive, ami bail from Paris, but no doubt in the very Dear future we shall find th?m copied at “something threefart hing.-.” in all onr most accessible establishment >. A little tucked collar band fitting tightly. ami shaped to a ver\ .'light degree higher at the back than the front, looks well with an infinPesinml frill at the top. the hand itself ing out Hued twice by a narrow black '•her ribbon tied at ’he base in front into a small bow. (> her pretty cravats, and those I believe I have mentioned before, are also mad,* of black glace and tasselled with gold. The finest of linen lawns makes the blouse, cither haiid-einbroider *d or with hem-stitched tucks decoratijig it. while most of (he centre pleats show little groups of pearl buttons, and many «»f the

lingerie blouses are made with the sleeves just below the elbow as with sleeves to the wrist. Some of the new hats an? quite as huge as those of hist year. A model that answers to this description is expressed in black and white straw with a black jetted lace band round the crown, and a wonderful ostrich feather wound round and round the hat to end at the back in a snake-like termination. The relief of a pink rose upon this model, is altogether charming. Heliotrope and cerise are two of the favourite mingling* of colour this spring.

and the fashion for employing shantung as a trimming is one to be noticed and extolled. © © © Return of the Long Veil. (August, 19t»8. “Daily Graphic,”) Everything points to the fact that the long veil will be with us again. Already •some of the shops are showing hats decorated with these graceful veils; some of the designs fall well below the waist, while others merely reach to the shouldera. These veils show great variety, individuality, and, if the truth must be told, oddity as well. August though it is, new models are still arriving at the milliners' to tempt customers. A picturehat- in smoke-grey net, bordered with heavy silk fringe to tone, has a fringed veil of the net reaching almost* to t-he ground. Very charming is another of these veilg which fa'ls from the sides of the hat to

the shoulders, while the back of the veil falls in a point well below the waist line. At the present moment face veils were never more varied or more beautiful. They come in hundreds of designs, and just what kind of veils are most becoming, each individual has the opportunity of deciding for. herself. The doublethreaded mesh veil is most becoming. It makes the complexion look clear, and brings out all the soft shades of the hair. The spider-web veil worn with the picture hat is extremely thin, and serves more 'than anything to preserve the smoothness of the coiffure. © © © Magpie Petticoats of Striped Materials. In spite of what pessimists tell us concerning the decline of the petticoat and the adoption of the silk maillot in its place, this indispensable item of attire has stood the test well, and is very far from being discarded to-day. To a certain extent, however, it lias changed its character, only the softest materials being employed" in its construction, while the upper part of the petticoat is fitted to the figure nearly to the knees, as closely as the casings of a. mummy, and without a single wrinkle to break the immaculate surface. About half-way between the knees mid waist the sheath-like covering gives place to a deep accordeon-pleated frill headed with a wide, soft ribbon, which is threaded through the petticoat, the flounce being far litnper and less voluminous than was formerly the case. These underskirts are carried out in a magpie design of white with wide, heavy stripes of black or colour, or are introduced in a soft ivory tint sprigged with Lowestoft bunches of rosebuds or pinks. In some cases the accordeon-pleated frill is substituted for a flounce composed entirely of long strands of soft satin ribbon, connected with a cobweb stitching of lace. © © © THE WASHIN GMATKRIAI.s OF THE FUTURE. Batistes and organdies with woven borders arc being issued, and the dress lengths are so designed that while for the edging of the skirt or tunic a broad border is provided, for a bodice decoration there are narrower ones. That devoted patronage will be Instowed upon all printed cotton fabrics is a foregone conclusion, and very quaint are some of the accepted dimity designs, such as were used by our great-great-grandmothers for casement curtains and chair coverings. Cream, buff, and pale ochre backgrounds, patterned with green or red-brown, are to be fashionable, and of the simplest of zephyrs will be made really modish toilettes. Look out for toile d'Alsace, the latest vogue in cottons chronicled from Paris, and hope, with me, for a fine warm summer that will be favourable for the display of such cool fabrics. <

The Leaf-trimmed Hat.

The vogue for a leaf-trimmed hat (says a fashions writer) has been the kindest possible concession to the depleted purse at the approaching close o'f the season. Leaves can still be obtained at prices Which arc not outside the radius of a

girl on a small allowance, and a hat covered with foliage in the most approved style cannot possibly vie in price with the model massed with 40 or 50 roses, often delicately perfumed, or the huge Gainsborough, piled with a cluster of the new limp “straight-fronded” feathers. The curled leaf of the lily of the val-

toy stands first in favour in this connection, especially where the green or molecoloured hat is concerned, the leaves covering the crown so effectively that not a single gleam of straw can be seen betwieen, while the only (supplementary trimming consists of a large folded green wing on one side. With a white muslin gown this particular class of headgear looks ideally eool and dainty, and an effective addition is representer! by one of the new scarves —at least a yard and a-lialf in width—■ ■which is designed of water green tulle as light and transparent a* a cloud, and which is bordered all round with a chain of silver laurel leaves, studded at intervals with a single mock diamond to represent a berry. © © © Attractive Flower Hats. Rats trimmed solely with flowers are. attractive for little girls, and some of the prettiest of those seen in Leghorn, ■Milan and ehip are precisely on the lines of' those worn by grown up sisters, aunts, and even mothers—if she be strictly up to date—save that there are no bandeaux and maline ehoux to be braced up by attachable curls and puffs which the

email woman would scorn to cumber her ■head with. In addition to the forget-me-nots, daisies, pansies, and rosebuds, of iwhieh hat wreaths are usually composed for the junior followers of fashion, there are apple and cherry blossoms interspersed with briar roses of the most delicate pink shade imaginable. Buttercups, too, are considered correct for Leghorn hat trimmings, and so are the "Brown Betties” precisely like those real ones from which she. will later on fashion into daisychains. © © ® Children’s Sashes and Bows. Pretty sashes and bow sets are charmling accessories to little maids’ wardrobes. Their colouring and design, however, have much to do with the occasions upon which they are worn, although it jmay be remarked, in passing, that the (correctly dressed little maided never •Wears a sash before luncheon, and that if she is not appearing in festive attire, but in an embroidered heavy linen or pique, her sash, like her hair bow, should be ef the Roman or clan-plaided type. Plain Ribbons of dark hue are also considered

smart with simple afternoon frocks. Deep red, navy blue and tobacco brown sashes and hair ribbons are serviceable for everyday use, while for parties and similar ceremonious occasions rose pink, blue, Nile green, and eoru colour ribbon sets are always in evidence. A little girl whose elders are wearing mourning is expected to eschew gay tints, and relieve her party froek with heliotrope when she tires of pure white. Small children do not wear deep mourning, but for three months their ribbons may be all-black or ■blaek and white stripes or checks. Beautiful lingerie for ladies and children is particularly simple. Very little lace is used on the underwear. of the little people, but every garment is of the finest quality of nainsook or silk, and every single thing is embroidered a la main. The little pettieoats are all of a piece with the bodice, and no fulness is permitted from waist-line to knee. Only a frill round the edge is allowed, as the Parisienne in miniature must have the necessary undergarments for wearing with the Empire-style frocks even as her mother does. She must also have every detail of her outer dress perfect, and, recognising the rising power of childhood, and the increase of nursery and schoolroom luxury, we have concentrated on the adorning of feminine beauty from the cradle to dawning womanhood.

Though the weather may still be capable of divers ugly vagaries, the dawn of October will bring with it a: conviction that thin frocks must be thought of, and that orders must be given for them, so that we be not taken unawares by heat. Shantung and tussore are holding their own ao a warm weather fabrics, and Resilda, a new aspirant for favour, looks worthy of an appreciative reception. The striped and checked Shantungs are more conspicuous than beautiful as a rule, but they are undeniably striking in appearance, and will undoubtedly be worn by extremists. Less staring and really pretty are those of a soft shade of tan, edged with the Persian shawl pattern in many shades of one colour, such as Oriental blue, brick-red, mahogany, and rose.