ROSE PRUNING.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 6, 5 August 1908, Page 40

ROSE PRUNING.

At the last meeting of the National Rose Society of Victoria, Mr. James Allen, of Surrey Hills, gave a practical demonstration on rose pruning. He recommended amateurs to follow the advice given by the Rev. Foster Melliar, who stated that the rose bush was not a tree, but rather a plant. The rose bush did not grow like a tree, properly speaking, as it expanded, including roots, in all directions. The first thing to be considered in pruning was what branches were to be practically untouched. Different varieties required methods of pruning. A variety that was very vigorous for producing wood should not be pruned to the extent of the weaker growing varieties, which should be cut well back. For instance, if Frau Karl Drusehki were cut back, no blooms would be obtained during the season, as it would devote its energy to produce wood for blooms for the following season. Good pruning renewed the life of the plant. After pruning, liquid manure and fresh sod should be applied. Unless the plant was looked after subsequently to pruning, it would not do well. He had not discovered the best way to grow Mildred Grant. To grow it successfully, he believed that plenty of wood should be left on it. As a rule, champion blooms were secured from shoots from the base of the plant. These shoots later on required to be pruned, with the result that later on another shoot will appear lower down the stem. Cleopatra did well in yellow clay soil, and should be pruned down to the dead wood. Be always careful to prune to an eye, a good healthy red eye. if possible. Some of the specimens to Mr. Allan to prune had been neglected in the matter of pruning. Mr. Allan produced one specimen, which he stated was an awkward one to bring back into shape, explaining the fact that there was no plant in his garden requiring pruning which puzzled him half so much. (Laughter.) He did not think that 1). R. Williamson was going to be the success it was first anticipated. Mr. S. Brundrett, nurseryman (Ascot Vale), also gave a fleeturette and demonstration on pruning. He agreed that plants did well in yellow clay soils up to ten and fifteen years, but in sandy soils it would attain its best at six or seven years. The union should be plant ed just above the soil. If planted just below the soil, it tended to produce roots. Climbing roses produce all their strong woods from the base. For trellis work, climbers should not be pruned the first two or three years before being bent into shape, and all base shoots removed. He preferred to have elimbers fanshaped. The strongest shoots started from the bend. He thought that all the Irish single roses would come into popular favour, and a class provided for them at shows.