THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 6, 5 August 1908, Page 65

THE WORLD OF FASHION

BY

MARGUERITE

THE BECOMING PRINCESS SLIP. Tile Princess Slip has been growing in favour ever since it was introduced as a part of the princess gown outfit. It was found so unusua.iy becoming that many persons have adopted it altogether for afternoon and evening wear, instead of the separate petticoat and corset cover. It does away with all unnecessary fulness around the waist and hips, and also has the great advantage of always staying properly together and requiring comparatively little attention in the putting on. A perfectly fitting princess slip is a marvellous aid to the figure, and the costume also gains immensely in style and. fit if the underslip fits perfectly. Almost all slips are now fastened in the back, although some persons prefer to have them, fastened up the side, and for certain frocks it is even possible to have the slip fasten in front, which is convenient if one is obliged to dress without a maid. But, alas! it is very rarely practicable, for most frocks demand the slip fastened in the back. Narrow laces and small, dainty patterns in embroidery are now considered correct for the decoration of the princess slip. The same design is used on the bodices and the flounces of the skirt, except that the bodice trimming is usually made perfectly flat, so as not to interfere with the lines of the outer bodice. The skirt flounces, on the contrary, are always more attractive When there is something quite fluffy in their decoration. Many of,the white Slips to be worn with gowns of pale colours—pink, blue, etc. —are trimmed with narrow Valenciennes and Qi*ny and with delicate

little embroideries in colour. The skirt shown in Figure 2 is trimmed in this fashion. Vertical insertioois of Valenciennes are set in in a row across the lower part of the bodice, and above this are little vertical embroideries of sweet peas in delicate pink and green. The skirt flares very much at the bottom, and the lower part has two flounces set in, one above the other, the upper one being cut out in deep points around the bottom. Both of these flounces are trimmed with vertical insertions of Valenciennes, those on the lower flounce being set on at regular interval#. The insertions on the upper flounce are set on in groups of three to trim each point. Above this trimming there were the delicate sweet pea vines, as on the bodice, all put on to run up and down.

The lingerie flounce still continues popular for these slips, especially for ■those to be worn with frocks of an elaborate nature. ® ® ® Most attractive are the styles this season for the afternoon frocks for girls from twelve to seventeen years of age. The apparent simplicity of the models is most becoming to any girl, and the colours and fabrics seem to be especially suitable this year to bright complexions and clear skins, while the fashions are not so involved or complex as is sometimes the case. More and more is it noticeable that time and thought are bntowed upon this question of fashions for young girls, and no longer are the same models used for young and old, as was done a few years

since. On the contrary, the line is most distinctly and definitely drawn, and it is considered quite as incongruous for a young girl to be dressed like an older woman as it is for the older woman to be dressed like the young girl. Certain styles certain contours and certain fabrics are assigned to each, and the rules are extremely strict in regard to what is correct for each. Blue, pink, cerise, tan and grey are all youthful colours and are extremely becoming to young girls, but mauve and purple in the more exaggerated and darker shades of brown are relegated to the older women. A pearl or silver grey is becoming to and suitable for young girls, but all the shades of steel or dark grey are inappropriate. The old-fashioned cashmere that was so popular years ago is once again coming into fashion —it always has been and

is a most attractive material for the style of frock suitable to a girl and i* to be found in all shades of colour. Thera are many varieties of voille and a cotton crepon that is most inexpensive, is effective and durable. It is rather hard to decide upon materials for school girls’ frocks in one way. While they are not required to wear any length of time, they must at all events be well woven, so as to stand the hard wear they will receive during their short term of usefulness. This year the fichus and berthas of embroidery that are worn are a great aid in making a simple frock look smart, and the touches of narrow velvet ribbon are also useful and effective. Older women are always being told to study their lines when choosing their clothes, anl young girls should do the same. The fichu draped in bertha effect around the shoulders gives breadth; put on in different style, like the every day fichu, it adds, height and slenderness. A wide bodice is becoming to some figures} a narrow belt is more becoming to others. It is not necessary that every change in fashion be slavishly copied by the school girl, who can and l should have a distinctive style of her own, and yet if any really marked change of fashion rules the world of dress it is reflected, but always in a modified form, in the young girl’s outfit. Skirts are more generally becoming if made with some fulness. The tight fitting, many gored skirt, is not satisfactory or smart, and is, in truth, no* - well adapted to a girlish figure. At the same time care must be taken not to have the skirts too full, and il these

are gathers, shirring or tucks, they must be most carefully worked out, otherwise the hips arc made to look too large. Hie double shirt is rarely to, be seen for young girls, and the pleated l skirt, in the many variations that are so fashionable, is the most generally popular of all. The favourite double skirt is made on the double flounce, opler, for there is one wide flounce on the drop skirt, and then the upper skirt, eut on the same lines, hangs over it, The objection to the double skirt or overskirt is that it cuts the figure ami makes a girl look so much shorter, and at the moment it is fashionable for girls as well as older women to look tall and slender.

The latest notes from Paris show unmistakably that the close fitting and sheath-like skirt, with a semi-Empire effect at the back, remains still very high in fashion’s favour, while they also demonstrate in a remarkable degree the charm of the long flowing lines, ap'd the beautiful embroideries which will be so pleasantly characteristic of the modes of the' immediate future. The beauty of the latest metallic embroideries, most artistically' arranged and used with discreet reserve, is admirably illustrated in the lovely frock mirably illustrated in the lovely frock of soft satin charmeuse shown in the accompanying illustration. This charming gown is carried out in a’ wonderful shade of pale flame-colour, shot with a warmer tone, and reminding one of the tints which are seen in the heart of a gloire <le Dijon rose. Round the hem of the skirt there is a trellis-work of embroidery, with large roses at intervals in raised metallic tissues, in which copper, silver, and aluminium are cleverly combined. On the bodice, which shows the very latest shape for smart frocks of this description, the same embroideries are repeated, adorned with heavy encrustations of raised roses,' while the chemisette and under-sleeves are of ivory-white net and lace,, with narrow strappings of flame-coloured satin, each one tied with a tiny ribbon bow. With this gown, a very becoming hat, in a dark shade of copper-coloured straw, which looks almost purple the light. This hat is trimmed in front with draperies of spotted net to match the colour of the straw, caught in the centre with a mass of roses, and trimmed high with clusters of' shaded primulas. © © © New Materials for Spring Attire. In their enthusiasm for stripes, yet not unmindful of the popularity of spotted fabrics, the tnanufaetnrers have designed c'ohibinations of the two upon one material. I examined several of the latest fabrics produced for silting, and early summer Wear the other day, and found among them the old - time favourite foulard, a silk always distinguished for its elegance and refinement. In one instance, upon an oyster-white surface were showered clusters of tiny blue spots, which at the foot of the skirt were magnified enormously, so that the' deluge looked like one of sixpences: Another pattern showed stripes of raspberry pink separated by bauds of

spots of a darker shade, and I observed also an exceedingly smart cloth with chevron stripes divided by . clusters of vertical ones—a scheme rather more curious than beautiful, and provocative of despair to the ordinary dressmaker, who would justifiably' ’ regard such a piece of material!as full of mental disturbance as a Chinese puzzle.