THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XL, Issue 19, 6 May 1908, Page 66

THE WORLD OF FASHION

By

MARGUERITE

Fashion in the Ballroom.

It is the short-waisted corsage that is the salient feature of every new gown, but not at the back is this trying curtailment permitted, unless the fan-shap-ed pleats that fall from beneath the shoulders are understood to come within the category. A very broad box-pleat is suggested as the heading of the train in some eases, especially when the motif of the gown is’ the fourreau or clinging sheath. Singularly averse from the utilisation of flounces are the modistes of the moment. '['heir favourite trimmings are embroideries wrought on fragile tulle, and also silver and gold lace encrusted with ornaments or left plain, which they

arrange upon decolletage and skirt in

Purple cloth would look (harming if made up in the style suggested by the accompanying sketch, die skirt quite untrimmed. and hanging in soft rather full folds, just tombing the ground all round, as this will have the effect of increasing the height. The draped bodice, will be very becoming to the figure, and this should have soft revers .of satin, caught in by little tal>s and amethyst buttons, while big amethyst buttons rimmed round with silver will look (harming on the Parma mauve waistcoat. The chemisdte introduces the soft touch of filmy lace which is a becoming feature of practically < •wry gown nowadays, and also just a touch of lace—in the form of a little inner cuff, or ruffle to relieve the short puffed sleeves. This shontd lie a very Hcrviceablc, as well as a smart gown.

perfectly flat bands. Wonderful sleeves are seen, wonderful by reason of their scantiness combined with a smartness and novelty that commands instant attention and admiration. Could any pattern be more simple than the little chemise sleeve made of net, with a bordering of gold laurel leaf embroidery? Yet how distinguished its refinement is when compared with the fussy efforts in elaboration of puff and slashing that once passed for modishness.

Not all gowns are so intricate as one of cherry-coloured crepe cut en prineesse, yvith the regulation suppleness and embryo draperies upon the waist-line and hips, and a classically folded corsage caught upon the shoulders beneatli cameo ornaments. Straight down the front of the gown, where the cherry crepe is cut away, a broad plastron of gold net darned with gold is posed, and there are little drooping flots of sleeves also made of gold net darned with filo floss. ARTISTIC SLEEVES. Where tailor-mades are concerned, the sleeves are looked upon as the “crux” of the costume, and no small amount of and care are expended upon their form and trimming. Worth, of Paris, has introduced a charming sleeve for a tailor costume, which is long and exceedingly plain, being studded with buttons from the wrist to the elbow, the buttonhole edge being long enough to stand out a little way all the length of the forearm with capital effect. An echo of the “ruffle” or three of four years ago is seen in the little gauffered edging of fine white lawn which defines the border all round, and gives a very charming relief to the dark simplicity of the gown. THE LATEST FROM PARIS. Every woman in Paris who aspires to be well dressed is having a little coat made of coloured satin or velvet to accompany a skirt of an entirely different shade. , These coats the latest cry in that city of freaks and fancies, and the imagination of the up-to-date couturiere has literally run riot in the matter of their destruction. Cotele velvet, with a cloth skirt, provides one of the most popular materials called into requisition, bright colours being by no means discarded. A complete revolution has been effected in the shape of the sleeping gown, which is no longer in any degree like its highnecked predecessor, which has long sleeves and was trimmed at the throat and upon the turned-back sailor collar with lace edged and inset frills, and was furthermore ruffled down the fronts and at the wrists. There is even something newer than the Empire gown, with its threading of ribbon through a lace beading passed beneath the .arms. Newer, too, than the robe that as belted at the waist in the same manner by means of a broader ribbon threaded through a lace or needlework beading. The fresh pattern is a- vestment planned upon surplice lines as like as can be to a very ancient gown called the Dalmatic that still figures in the outfits of kings at their coronation. The lingerie makers call it the chemise robe. Sloped round the neck sufficiently to enable it to be passed over the head, there are no fastenings required, and it has elbow sleeves that are broad and square, with encrustations to match those upon the yoke. A special stitch called encrustation is being employed to attach the fabric and the lace together, and it is always seen in a scalloped or

Vandykod fashion, instead of in the hard line that would not be picturesque. , Success has alighted upon the introduction of the dual garment that is petticoat and knickerbockers in one,'and another accepted design is of the divided skirt*: type, though by no means to be associated in its beauty of lace and lawn iwith the dresses worn at one time by would-be revolutionists of feminine attire. .. - - , , ■ ■

The camisole that is most highly approved is truly conservative in shape with its neat little basque and its rather closely fitting proportions. The semihigh pattern is well liked now. but there •is a diversity of opinion as to whether the (Title garment should be sleeveless or not. For evening wear, of course, any semblance of sleeve is not to be tolerated, and the camisole is supported over the shoulders by straps of ribbon.

A GRACEFUL DESIGN IN CREPE DE CHINE AND LACE. This crepe de chine frock is of a lovely shade of old rose. The novel and pretty pinafore bodice is outlined with rouleaux of satin in a rather deeper ton?, while the old ivory lace of the under bodice should be made up over pile pink’Chiffon which comes into outward view, on the sleeves. One of the fashionable icarves of pink chiffon will be a graceful addition to this gown and 1 think you will be pleased with the whole design inasmuch as it manages to combine the picturesque simplicity with a quite up-to-date smartness.

AN EFFECTIVE USE FOR IRISH LACE. The pictured suggestion for an evening gown is destined to display to the advantage a piece of Irish lace on whose possession one is to be much .congratulated, for this particular lace is as durable as it is decorative, ami can lx- used in many different forms before its useful career is ended. Tlieh white spot net.will gain in effect and softness if the silk lining is first veiled with chiffon, while, then, at the waist, have a folded belt of green silk, the little bows, which adorn the lace on corsage and sleeves lining, of course, in the same colour and shade. The tucker at the square decollete and the frill finishing the elbow sleeves should be in Valenciennes as this always goes well with Irish crochet.

AN EMPIRE TEA GOWN, ( Made of soft silk or crepe, with long ribbon sash, ends depending from the baud which delines the high waist.