THE WORLD OF FRSHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXVI, Issue 23, 9 June 1906, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FRSHION

(By

MARGUERITE.)

The new styles are so different from those of last winter that women are breathing a sigh of thankfulness that skirts and sleeves were then so ample as material is thus provided with which to make the change necessary. In heavy materials yoke ami panel effects are arranged in the tops of last year’s pleated skirts so that the pleated effect is removed and a fitted upper portion achieved. The plan of gathering and shirring the tops of thin skirts is still in vogue, so that skirts so treated last year will do now with a trifling change of trimmings.

I he shirring, however, is prettier when given the effect of gathers at the top of a skirt, and not done in an underneath tuck.

Evening gowns are made of all the soft, thin materials suitable to evening wear, and among these pompadoured chiffon satins and louisines are quite prominent. Brocades form a feature among new materials, and come in every conceivable tint and combination of tints and in designs nearly always of a floral character. Even when pink, blue, mauve, green and yellow are mingled—in the softest of pastel hues—in the same de-

sign, the general tone of the material suggests a dominant colour, as pink, or blue, or mauve. Lines of evening gowns must be both full and clinging. This sounds paradoxical, yet it is strictly the faet. Draperies upon bodices are put cn full, yet drawn to fit the figure upon a silk lining. Skirts cling about the hips, and yet are so full around the bottom that they require a surprising number of petticoat ruffles to make them stand out properly from the feet. It is nothing unusual to find as many as four or five overlapping ruffles on the

bottom of a drop skirt. These are made of silk, chiffon and lace, alternating, or or silk and chiffon. Princess gowns will be very’ much worn this winter. Formerly only’ wellformed women looked well in princess gowns, but now these are so arranged that less correct figures can wear them effectively. The upper portions are often finished off in bolero and other attractive effects, and the bottoms are very full. The line of grace seems to extend from a little above the waist line to below the hip. Whether, when the autumn evening

toilette is being ordered, a corsage cut square or one arranged with a pointed decolletage should be preferred, is an example of the trifling questions that mean so much to the ultimate success or failure of the gown, from the standpoint of modishness.

A square-cut front and a V-shaped back are fashion’s decree this w nter, but this preference should only be considered by those the device suits. The rounded berthe, the heart-shaped modestie, and the deep \ are all permitted, and should certainly not be forsaken by those who find them becoming. Luckily for beauty’s sake, the corsage a pointe is still a very well-liked scheme j high in the ascendency of the mode. It is sometimes dexterously simulated by a deep ceinture. and sometimes is draped.

A new coiffure which has become extremely popular with Parisian women is the “Marie Stuart.” In this a full pompadour is brought over the forehead to a point in the centre, and. brushed tightly up at the sides, rolling smoothly over to the top of the head. Here it is met by the back hair, and shaped into loop*shaped puffs well forward on the front pompadour. The striking feature is the pyramidal Psyche knot, made up of these puffs, which extends out almost on a line with the end of the nose. Next in importance to the shaping of the coiffure is the ornament which is to adorn it. Popular as is the jewelled comb, if a girl can possibly keep her hair in position without it such safeguards are not worn on the evening coif-

fure. There is one exception, perhaps, and that is the huge, old-fashioned comb with high, tortoise-shell back, covered with filigree gold or studded with sparkling rhinestones. Pointed, crown-shaped ornaments of rhinestones surrounding imitation emeralds or topazes are worn, perched lightly just above the centre of the forehead on the fluffy pompadour, or over a middle part in wavy locks, giving a wonderfully regal appearance. Another smart adornment is a wing-shaped bow of pearl grey gauze, outlined and veined with silver spangles. From this rises three marabout tips, with spangles glistening at the end of each feather, while high among them stand spangled ball tipped pins closely resembling a butterfly’s antennae.

Decidedly girlish are the charming wreaths and crowns of artificial flowers. I‘runruses lend themselves gracefully to the high coiffure. When the hair is parted in the middle and wound in a simple coil directly on top of the head, a garland of these flowers is fastened at the back and brought over the toil, to fall coquettishly at the side of the part- \ ery brilliant is a hair ornament which a girl could easily make herself at small cost. In the heart <f a long leafshaped design, built from moss-green leaves, is nestled a full-blown rose of medium size. This is evolved f< m short lengths of half-inch gold ribbon, frayed at tht* edges and bunched together on a small circular piece of velvet.