THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIV, Issue 14, 8 April 1905, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FASHION

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Pessimistic prophecy is always condemning the blouse, predicting its total disappearance from the well-stock-ed wardrobe, and denying it every now and again the least sign of favour. But fashion, so potently powerful in other quarters, can no more condemn the wearing of the blouse than it can command the weather of the day. The fact of the matter is. blouses are far too indispensable and useful to be subjected to the vagaries of fashion. Vienna and Paris, from whence come all that is smartest in the way of blouses, are ingenious enough to make the minutest concession to the particular phase which fashion is favouring, so that, as a garment, the blouse embodies the latest and smartest thing, and is no more to be ignored than warm clothes in winter. So that, conforming with all her latest dictates, fashion can scarcely at any time, summer or winter, quarrel with the garment which so happily solves the difficulties of a coat and skirt. 'The blouse leapt into fashion with the demand for tailor-mades, and its unsurpassed usefulness has increased its popularity ever since. It is something to wear in the street under the coat, at home, in the morning, for evening, and is sometimes even, but only with the skirt carefully matching. permissible for a dance. More ingenuity would appear to have been directed to the fashioning of blouses than has been lavished on anything else appertaining to dress, and this season the makers would seem to have attained to the farthest possible point of suitability, style, and shape. Actual novelties in design are not

so particularly prolific, however, but a e are perhaps too near the winter season yet to expect any radical changes: but never have the materials been so beautiful or the prevailing style more becoming. The deep circular yokes which are such a feature of the present modes are very happily conceived in soni“ of the blouses from Vienna. Embroidered medallions of different colours are set into these yokes, fastened by a spider web of fancy stitchery. The effect is admirable. A good style of blouse recently seen was faced with a contrasting shade of satin. This was made with a shoulder yoke and a broad pleat on either side of the front, and a double row of gold buttons, giving the effect of a donb’e-breasted waistcoat. It suggest e<l a capital wrap to wear under the new Inverness ca|>es. Leaving the realms of the useful bodice to record the dainty beauties of the evening and party models, it seems hopeless to convey Anything at all approaching a representative idea of their diversified charm. One shop is making a specialty <of a French

overslip in ecru pinched lace, upon which «are sewn Circular strappings of silk in delicate colour, eau de Nil, apricot, tangerine, heliotrope, or shelllink, and the sleeves are similarly strapped to give a wide effect. Then there is beside a score of blouses never destined to come down to the ordinary price—lovely creations in silk chiffon, chiffon velvet, and chiffon taffeta, all ranging at so many guineas. Of these it would indeed be hard to resist the charms of a tangerine chiffon velvet blouse, gathered around a circular yoke of heavy ecru lace, edged with several rows of gauged chiffon. A cream creation, where •again the circular effect predominated. had a shoulder cape coming from either side of the chiffon-gauged front, run with rows of ruched Valenciennes and caught with delicate tassellings of eau de Nil silk. Only one more may be mentioned in

this tempting category —this of apricot panne, with every here and there a light and dark blue painted butterfly. its wings outlined in pokerwork. Blue butterflies cut out in velvet were scattered over the ecru yoke and down the cascade of laee in front. But this was a blouse for the butterfly in the height of fashion’s recklessness.

Several delightful models are sketched in this page, the salient features of which are as follows: — In the first column appears a very DECORATINE LOOKING BLOUSE of golden brown crepe de chine, destined to be worn with a cloth skirt of the same colour. It has a yoke ot buttercup yeliow lace edged by bands of blue velevt and puffed sleeves that terminate in laee flounces instead of cuffs. Two evening gowns are shown next, the first a simple rose-pink nun’s veiling, one for a girl of sixteen or so. adorned with ivory lace and bands of pink satin, threaded through a diamante buckle: and the second a more elaborate scheme, which will look

most picturesque in amethyst-colour-ed chiffon with bosses and chains of the same very fashionable gems in imitation, matched by a set of real ones round the throat. The lace that comprises the bolero is of a delicate

This illustration would do splendidly for a home evening blouse or for the theatre. The handkerchief effect is heightened by a broad inlet of a different coloured silk, either in pale pink, blue, green, or heliotrope. These sleeve frills are of pleated lawn, and add to the dressiness of the blouse. At the back the handkerchief crosses over into the high belt, to correspond with the front.

ivory shade which very materially enhances the beauty of the robe’s colouring. A white flannel shirt trimmed in the modish manner of to-day, with big discs worked in blue crewels, adds another possibility.

Among the blouses which would specially appeal to the economical maid is the one shown in illustration. It is one of the newest things of the golf jersey family, of material, however, not knitted, and has many points worth the consideration of those who have many hours to spend in office rooms not too well heated. The colours inelude pale and dark blue, red and white, and it is quite the cosiest blouse for wearing under a loose coat or eape.