THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIII, Issue XVI, 15 October 1904, Page 66

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

SLEEVES AND NECK BANDS. It has seldom been our lot to see such a remarkable change in the various sleeves of the moment as there has been during the last few months. Of course, all extremes are exaggerated, and we see not only the tight coat sleeve, but also the new enormously puffed sleeves on all sides. Still, I would recommend my readers to keep always to a happy medium. This is safer, unless we have a very great deal to lay out, as very marked fashions bear their dates horribly; and a happy medium is generally suitable, and will continue for an indefinite period without very much notice. Among the various sleeves which are worn, and well worn too, may be mentioned the bell shape, with a handsome turn-back cuff of velvet or embroidery. We have also the FULL BELL SLEEVE caught up to the wrist with a handsomely shaped cuff. Such a cuff is often scalloped with braid or trimming or various

kinds, and may be cut to shape either short or long, as we will. Then, again, comes a simple sleeve of the same description, the big bell being caught up with a neat pointed cuff, the point being carried up the sleeve a little way on the under side. Again comes the double sleeve, showing the upper half finished with a point at the elbow and the lower half being cut on the same lines with an open bell at the wrist, also finished with a sharp point, the point being almost over the hand. This shape is especially useful to those of us who are anxious to alter the shape of an existing sleeve which may be out of fashion, and which, by such a contrivance, can be brought up to date. As to collars and eollar-bands. their name is legion. Many of the PRETTIEST COLLARS OR THROATLETS are finished with tabs at tile front, two or three tabs being used variously. These are not of the stiff linen kind: instead.

they are of embroidered cambric, or even a fine make of soft linen. Then we have the tiny turnover collar of embroidered cambrie, which I have mentioned, not once, but often, in these columns. To such a collar the finish of a soft tie should most certainly be added. It is newer to finish this tie in a dainty knot, leaving the two ends to fall one below the other. Then there is the Swiss neck-band, which is specially suited to the owner of a long, thin neck. It should be made of net, soft fine muslin, tulle, or lace, while it should be finished with a single big bow of pleated ribbon or tulle, or with three rosettes set from left to right, one below the other. QIRTE THE NEWEST ARRANGEMENT. is a yoke and epaulettes, or a sort of cape piece, of a plain or rich material, such, for instance, as silk, or even fine cloth, the yoke being stitched right the way round with several rows of machine stitching, and the edge of the epaulette

being stitched to match. Of course, such a style could not be adopted for a very plain or a very elaborate gown; but it should be remembered that in dressing simplicity should be the keynote. With a simple muslin gown, the rather fiat French sailor hat will be eminently becoming. This is arranged with a particularly broad brim and a rather flat crown. Very little trimming is necessary, merely a band of plain ribbon or velvet, and a good-sized puckered rosette set on either side of the front. The colour used to trim the hat may be repeated in the waist-band, and again in the scarf or dainty under-front carried down the centre of the loose blouse bodice. ® ® ® A PRETTY HAT. Hats are still most picturesque in design, and boast beautifully curved brims and rather higher crowns than we have of late seasons been accustomed to. The simple but pretty hat given in my sketch has a wide, shady brim trimmed with pink and white gauze ribbon, which forms a chon at one side, and also wide strings which are brought round and tied under the chin. It is a charming though simple piece of headgear, and would look well

with any sort of dress, whether serge or muslin. The shape of the hat could be copied in fine chip if a rather dressy hat were required, or coarse rustic straw for a morning hat. The high jam-pot crown

has become very popular. I recently saw an exceedingly pretty hat of this kind made of fine black chip and trimmed with a single black ostrich feather, which was arranged a little to one side of the front, with the end of the plume curling over the brim. Black velvet strings were brought from behind, and form the only other trimming, except an ornamental buckle securing the plume and apparently holding it in exactly the right position. © ® ® THE MODERN CAPE is a detail of more than a little importance. It is, however, by no means a mantle—that is to say, the summer cape that is at the moment receiving so much attention. Instead, it is an airy-fairy garment, made very often of the same flimsy material as that which composes the rest of the 'bodice, or. indeed. the entire costume. I have seen not one 'but dozens of such capes. But a week ago I .met a lovely muslin frock, costly, no doubt, in its simplicity, yet well worth copying by any of us who have but a limited amount to lay out. The muslin frock in question was while, and absolutely untrimmed, hut mounted over a charming shade of fairly dark green silk. The pretty cape, which was cut into a sharp point at the back of the waist, was arranged in long hanging

points at the front, the points reaching almost to the knees, and were then finished with a tassel to match. The back of the cape showed a noticeable novelty. It was eaught in at the waist by a Swiss shaped band made to match of the silk. Now THE WHOLE CHARM. of this dainty garment was that the eape was composed entirely of green silk to match the shade used for the foundation of the whole gown. A perfectly plain glace silk it was, uni rimmed except for several rows of machine stitching set right round the edge; and yet the effect of the whole, although so plain, so simple, and so uni rimmed, was absolutely fascinating in its noveltv and uneommonness. Surely every

reader who can use a needle at all would be quite able to make for herself a summer costume for best wear sueh as I have described, finishing it with a cape as well; and I promise her she would score a well-merited success, and feel certain of looking smart and well dressed upon every occasion. All this, remember, could be obtained with a particularly small outlay, so, you see, the idea is worthy of note, and of imitation as well. With such a costume, either a large hat or a small toque would look equally well. The costume I am describing was finished with a smartlv-shaped toque of green straw to match the cape, while the whole was trimmed with unmounted pink roses, without any foliage, and a large bow of black velvet ribbon was set on the left side rather at the back of the head. ® © ©

1 have rarely seen a prettier or smarter blouse than that depicted in my illustration. It is made of rose-pink silk, with a handsome lace yoke and numerous inchings of the silk. The sleeves are made in a novel design, with the fulness eaught in a puff at the top and then falling in a frill edged with the silk inching over the full undersleeve, which is again caught into a very wide wristband of lace. There is no collar, but the blouse is cut a little low in the form of a V at the throat, this giving it a very dressy effect. The front of the bodice is drawn into the yoke, and the fulness is again confined at the waist by a wide silk band. The yoke is, of course, long on the shoulders, for no really smart blouse is seen this season without this feature. A muslin dress would make up very prettily in this style, with the skirt slightly gauged round the hips and made with an over-dress or pannier edged with a ruche of silk and falling over a frill of the muslin. The bodice could also be finished with silk ruches, though, of course, muslin treated in the same way could be substituted. though with not such a good effect.

In the charming hat illustrated, the loose strings are of pale pink tulle tied into a careless bow under the chin. The hat is of the variety previously described, with a high crown, and is trimmed by a large cluster of pink and red roses. It is a very becoming style of headgear, and looks equally well seen from the back, where the brim bends down and fits closely to the coiffure. These large cabbage roses are much used on the smart est hats this season, and make a trim ming at once prettv and becoming, and unite inexpensive. Sometimes some bows of handsome ribbon of a contrasting colour are intermingled with the flowers, and a soft, faint tone of pale blue looks well interspersed among the pink roses.