THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXII, Issue XXI, 21 May 1904, Page 66

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Naturally, with an evening toilette, or one that is to be worn indoors at all, the coiffure is the crown of interest. Englishwomen have never found in the low coil so great a degree of satisfaction as they have in the one that ascends to the top of the head. While remembering, therefore, that the arrangement of the hair should suit each individual face, it is as well to record the fact that the high dressing is more in repute than the low one at this moment.

Girls are wearing their hair most artistically arranged, drawn up well from the nape of the neck, and brushed right up at the sides after the manner that Helleu has found so fascinating, and made to look so desirable in his portraits. Side combs of blonde tortoise shell delicately gemmed with jewels are often introduced to keep the wayward tresses in their proper place. More matronly women dress their hair with less abandon, and are wearing it now naturally waved and very bouffant above the ears, but Hat on the crown of the head, where a decided depression is noticeable.

It would naturally be supposed that with the hair dressed flat in the centre, every coiffure adornment would be placed

on high. This is not the case. Huge Geisha roses and chrysanthemums made of silk and mousseline are perched upon the softly bulging puffs over and behind the ears. Sometimes one sees the Pompadour wreath, composed of absurdly wee blossoms, usually roses or violets, occupying a position rather further up, but certainly not on the summit of the head, a place that is reserved for the more conventional laurel wreath carried out in gold tissue, or the classical bandeaux made of plain gold, which arc so peculiarly becoming to the girl with regular features, and to the one whose hair really waves au nature], or the Ceres wreath of gold or silver flowers, grapes, or berries.

Truly Italian in its beauty is the Juliet cap made of seed pearls or gold chains set with gems. A form in which imitation jewellery is legitimate is in that of shoulder straps, which are quite a feature of the latest evening toilettes. The decolletage is not now cut in the exaggeratedly low manner that was a former fashion, but the sleeves, quite pronounced in size though they are, are made to droop from the crowns of the arms. The jewelled strap that is passed across the shoulders certainly gives piquancy to a corsage constructed thus, and redeems it from anv

symptom of dowdiness that it might otherwise possess. The colour scheme of an evening frock is prettily and smartly emphasised by the fly-away bow that rests above the depression of the coiffure already mentioned. Introduced in the Alsatian form, with full loops and ends, it has been rather diversified. until it now takes the form of some strange butterfly or orchid. There hardly seems to be an evening dress left without a skirt that is not gauged upon the hips, sometimes slightly, sometimes voluminously. Coloured evening frocks are enjoying popularity, or those white ones made vividly brilliant by being covered with pastilles and pampilles of gold both dull and bright. There is something very fascinating in the effect of an admixture of round discs and bugles so disposed that they form patferns of conventional flowers with traceries between the blossoms of gold thread embroideries.

Silver is perhaps a little less worn than gold in this way, but upon gowns that are trimmed with white chenille and crystal embroideries it appears with excellent effect. and particularly in the form of fringe, a trimming that looks very well when it is not overdone.