THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXII, Issue XIV, 2 April 1904, Page 66

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

I liriv i- a promise that our millinery will -how higher crowns as the autumn and winter advance. Whether this will Iw so or not 1 do not propose to promise. Imt without a doubt many of the newest models show a noticeably raised crownpiece. Broad brims and sweeping curves follow as a natural climax,, and the ostrich feather is becoming larger and longer as time advances. Flat hats, however. are still with us. and those who have invested in an expensive model of the kind may rest assured that their chapeau will be fashionable for still a little longer. It is too early yet to say what is and what is not to be worn. but.

iu my experience, it a hat is really becoming few folks stop to inquire whether its shape illustrates the very latest mode. GENERAL HINTS. 1 t hink navy serge is more worn than ever, but there is a distinct variety about its modern-day appearance—it is certainly bluer than it used to be! The very dark navy serge is now not nearly >o popular as the much brighter and more purple-coloured shade. Then, again, the modern-day navy costume is now so elaborate as to be quite suitable for very best wear. Handsomely-cut skirts set in box pleats, and stitched and strapped, are

frequently finished with rows of little gilt or silver buttons placed at intervals. Groups of three set here and there lighten the darkness of such a frock very considerably, while the bodice is frequently lined with white satin cut in the open bolero fashion, and finished with from one to three collars set in cape fashion one over the other. A folded waistcoat of scarlet or rifle-green panne, ringed with white, is set inside, and so composes some of the smartest models it is possible to find. White caracul fur promises to be immensely worn for best wear during the winter ahead. Moleskin is also to be

etiormously popular, ami. although it started life as quite an ordinary fur. its price is going up by leaps and bounds, because the supply in no way meets the demand. Moleskin is very soft and pretty, and quite Incoming in colouring, but it is not so hard-wearing as economical folks would like.

Lace is always popular—of course it always must be; but the newest kind without doubt is the lawn insertion arranged with squares of Paraguay lace let in. This is stronger and harder than just the simple fine lace, and trims blouses and dress bodices of every kind most effectively. The newest travelling cape is made with a long sack body and a double cape set over the arms. The neck-piece is very flat, with long stok ends at the centre of the front. The garment is loose, cosy, and very smart, while as a slip-on for travelling and calling it is quite ideal.

Still they continue to be worn—those of plain flannel, flannelette, cashmere, delaine. and even fine cloth during the morning, and a much richer kind during the afternoon and for best wear. The two styles, indeed, show such a complete difference that it seems hardly fair to give the same name to both bodices. So severe is tin* make of the morning kind that frequently a deep collar, cut almost in the shape of a cape collar, is adopted. This, when worn with a plain linen collar and tiny bow tie. proves, however, especially suitable for every-day wear. Most of the blouses show a fairly light tone in the actual colour of their material. Grey, stone, biscuit, and the lighter tones of blue are among the most fashionable. while almost always such blouses are turned back or trimmed with velvet in a darker shade: and one of the prettiest styles I have seen was arranged with tiny velvet revers and four handsome velvet buttons set down the centre Iwix-pleat.

There are some pretty collar bands of real Lire made with a deep vandyke of lave wilh the points downwards which will be found useful by anyone with a thin neck, as they are intended for wear with evening toilettes, ami are fastened

here and there with pretty little brilliant brooches ami pins. The accompanying sketch is made of one of these pretty and usi»ful novelties, by which it will be seen that the ugly part of a thin neck, where Ihe collar bone is apt to prove unph*a*antlv visible, is softened and con waled by the points of lace.