THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXI, Issue XVI, 17 October 1903, Page 66

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

The great thing at the moment is to have all one’s things as lacy as possible. The effect, 1 mean, must lx* openwork. This may be obtained either with embroidered muslin or tine embroidered cambric, or even lace pure ami simple just what we will. Then, again, we may use lace in almost every part of our gown, either as a capelet. collarette. sleeves, frills, under-sleeves, entire hodices, applique upon our skirts, or if we will, and if we can afford it, entire lace skirts as well. By such means it is of course possible to obtain very lovely effects, and if we are lucky enough to own any oddments of lace—the larger the better—which may possibly have been handed down to us from our grandmothers, such treasures must be carefullv hoarded, for thev will

“pan out,” as 1 suggest, for trimmings, appliques, or whole frocks, ail according to their size and worth. Cither novelties of the trimming world are beautiful embroidered galloons, carried out in old tapestry colourings on a kind of ecru canvas. These can be obtained in all widths and all prices. They are admirable for trimming linen costumes and morning blouses. A shirt blouse of line white linen, finished with such a galloon trimming, is extremely handsome and uncommon-looking, while the embroidery washes well again and again, and the colourings being all very soft blend happily with any skirt or chapeau with which we may wish to wear them.

Another beautiful lace garniture is that of the fashionable grape design.

This ean be obtained either narrow or wide, with either a straight or a waved edge. This pattern of lace being large and handsome looks extremely well mounted on a dark foundation. Indeed, a lace of the kind is the making of a simple voile or canvas costume. THE NEWEST LINENS. The smartest thing in the new makes of linen is the poplin linen, with very soft, rich surface. A biege-coloured poplin linen dress had the all-round skirt put into shaped panels, stitched flat at the top. The yoke was of the new shape, continued as epaulettes, stitched flat to the sleeves, and to form the strap, fastening the coatee round the throat. When this was thrown back it showed a facing of embroidery, con-

sisting of applique fan-ehaped pieces of light blue poplin linen, embroidered with darker flax thread and touches of gold thread. Narrow twisted white and black cord entered into this dressy embroidery, which encircled the waist and trimmed the wrists. The nacre buttons were veined with gold and resembled berries. The toque was covered with posies of the fashionable French posies, formed of all kinds of old-fashioned flowers, marguerites, cherry-pie, pansies, forget-me-nots, mignonette, with other blossoms and foliage, all surmounted by an aigrette of green rushes. ® ® ®

The subject of petticoats is wide and very alluring. Constantly we see both silk and muslin and lace blended in evolving the up-to-date and modish underskirt. One of the loveliest models showed strips of silk ribbon, two inches wide, set right round the skirt, at ranged into a band at the knees, and falling thence over a full and frothy frill of deep Valenciennes lace. The ribbon strips were then laced together by a fancy herringboning, with the most pleasing result. Such a petticoat flows and swings as the wearer walks, and helps very considerably in throwing out the light dress skirt worn above. ® ® ®

recently reviewed was of the finest and softest book muslin, tucked to within six inches of the waist, cut slightly Vshaped at the throat, and finished with a big Im>w of soft pastel-tinted ribbon set at the bend of the figure. The sleeves were very large, veritable “bis hops.” caught in just below the elbow by a single band of lace. From thence the sleeve floated out in a very full frill, edged with lace to match the handsome cape piece or collarette, which was composed entirely of a large wheel patterned Cluny.

This year the materials for the manufacture of blouses are more alluring and dainty than ever, and the feminine heart finds it difficult to resist the temptation of buying. If we have a long purse the matter is very simple, but as most of us are not able to gratify our desires by simply ordering those we want, we must either make them ourselves or have t hem made at home.

So, for the busy and economical work ers, I have illustrated a design that you can quite easily accomplish at home. For its manufacture you can use either silk, tussore, delaine or muslin, trimming it with lace, or one of the daintily pretty bordered materials now to be bought everywhere, when the border would be the trimming. I'he blouse is quite simple, being just an ordinary yoke one. with a front frill arranged at the lower edge of this, the back being quite plain. In the sketch the blouse is arranged to fasten in the front. In.i I should like to say that its appearance will be improved if the fastening be arranged at the back. This, however, is for the maker to decide.

The sleeves are tucked at the top, and have a band of insertion a few inches down.

About 3| yards of 27-inch. material will be required, with three yards of insertion.

A delightful gown for a young married woman’s wear upon rather best occasions would be of cornflower blue

foulard showing a satin facing, with a handsome trimming of white Irish lace, 'the skirt should be made in the now much patronised pleated fashion, the pleats being caught together about half way down the skirt, and from thence being allowed to flow in the greatest possible fulness. A good deal of material is required to make such a skirt effectively. as foulard is decidedly limp, and will look ‘‘dabby” and poor unless mounted on a stout silk lining. A basque may or may not be added to this skirt. If desired, it will look its best carried out in the white lace I suggest for the bodice. The bodice should be math* in single box-pleated fashion. so as to

match and combine as closely as possible with the skirt. The sleeves, too. may he box-pleated to the elbow, and from thence the fulness allowed to flow in bishop fashion to the wrist. A very ample collarette of white Irish lace set in tab fashion must be arranged over the upper part of the bodice, and the sleeve cuff should repeat the idea. Here, you see. we have a gown which, while looking well for garden-parties, flowershows. calling, and church, will yet be

none too smart for a railway journey if necessary or for wear by those folks who have to journey by train for an hour io do a day’s shopping. With such a costume a large black chip hat should be worn, gracefully curved over the face and down again at the back. A long ostrich feather may be set round the brim on one side of such a chapeau, and this should be caught down with a rich steel buckle. If further adornment is necessary,, a big chon of black tulle will look well, or even a few coloured roses m»y be tucked under the brim at one