Our Parliamentarians in the Pacific.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXI, Issue I, 4 July 1903, Page 49

Our Parliamentarians in the Pacific.

(“Graphic” Special.) (Continued from page 35.) House, and the ground was being levelled out with sand and shells. We were told that the whole distance would lie covered with mats and earpets for Royalty to walk on. Many representatives had already arrived front the other islands, and a contract had been let to feed the members of Parliament during the time the House was in session. I think the Nets’ Ze*land members of Parliament must have envied their dusky brethren, who are provided with free rations to help their deliberations. Perhaps the coming session of Parliament may rectify this omission and bring their country up to the level of the Tongan Kingdom. The British Consul. Mr Hamilton Hunter, who welcomed the party, arranged for an audience with the King at 12 o’clock, when most of the members turner? up arrayed in their best togs to pay their respect to the sole remaining independent monarch of the Pacific. The interview was not a particularly lively affair; perhaps His Royal Highness was afraid the party had come to annex his kingdom, and was careful not to commit himself. The King stands somewhere between 6ft 4in and 6ft Gin high, and is broad in proportion, so that he could afford to look down on all his visitors. The Tongans are the intellectual aristocrats of the Pacific, and although not so powerfully built as the Santoans have a lordly air about them which indicates their pride of descent from the old Vikings which made the Tongan name a dread to the inhabitants of almost every island in the Pacific. Nearly every island from Fiji to Samoa has traditions of Tongan incursions in the dim and distant past, but there is no record of any invasion of Tonga. The only fighting in their islands was amongst themselves. 'rhe Tongans are inclined to remind the British that, it was their kinsman, Mapou, who was the real King of Fiji at the time when old Thackainbau ceded that country to Great Britain; and it seems pretty certain that if the cession had not taken place when it did the negotiations would have iieett with Mapou instead of Thaekambau. TONGA—ITS GOVERNMENT AND PEOPLE. The island of Tbngatabu, on which Nukualofa is situated, is very fiat, being in this respect quite, a contrast to Vatican. Bananas, oranges and cocoanut trees grow very luxuriantly on the island, but very little systematic cultivation has been done, and the island is eapah'.e of verv great development. No land call be bought on any of the islands; and one of the complaints of the white residents is the partiality and favouritism shown in the matter of leasing. I ao whole of the land is nominally vest'd in the King, but certain proprietary rights ov'.r districts have been vested in the nobles. These nobles are created by their peers and may be degraded by them. Every male native as he comes to manhood pays a tax of 28/ a year to the Government, which may be considered a poll tax or a land tax, as it entitles him to a section of land in the towns for a residence, and also a section in the country for growing his food. In addition to this tax to the Government he pays a dollar a year to bis district chief or noble. There are nearly 100 islands in the Tongan Group, the three largest being Tongatabu, Vauvau ami llaapai. The total population of the group is about 21,000, including about 150 Europeans. The trade of the islands amounts to about £150,00'; a year, She bulk of the imports come in about equal proportions front New South Wales and New Zealand, about half the exports being copra, which goes direct to Europe. The residents of Nukualofa were very attentive to the visitors, several providing traps to drive the members into the interior of the island. Mr. A. 11. W right, manager for Messrs. Vines, Utting and I’erston, deserves special nielliiott, as he supplied four or tivo traps for the use of the Minister and party. A good deal of dissatisfaction existed among the whit- residents nt inc action* of the Government, which there, as else-

where, really means the action of the Premier.

The High Commissioner of the Pacific was expected almost daily to inquire into ■B»e of the complaints and endeavour to get real grievances remedied. The question of annexation either to Great Britain or New Zealand is being discussed, the white residents being about equally divided in their preferences.

if King George could have a change of Premier and get a reliable white man to put at the head of the Justice Department he might maintain his independence to the end of his days, as he is personally very popular both with his own people and the Europeans. I have spoken about Tonga as an independent kingdom, and some of your readers may inquire what about the protectorate arranged by Sir. Basil Thompson’ If they want to know about the protectorate they need not go to Tonga. Nobody there seems to know much about it, although they would like to. It seems pretty clear that Hr. Thompson bungled his mission, or found King George and his advisers a little too clever for him. The book publisher by this gentleman, giving an account of his mission, would ensure for him a very warm reception if he ever again returned to Tonga. It was intended at first to leave Nukualofa the same night, but at the audience with the King the Minister mentioned that Hr. Seddon had often spoken about the excellent singing of the King’s choir, so the King very courteously offered to get his choir together to sing for the party in the evening if they could stay over for the night. The offer ■was accepted, and at 8 o’clock, when the party arrived at the private chapel, they found a .full choir of about 120 voices, which discoursed most excellent music for over an hour. The choir were with, ut instruments or a conductor, and the manner in which they kept time was a perfect marvel. One of the pieces rendered was a chant of the Lord’s Prayer, composed by the King. IN THE FIJIS. At six o’clock on the morning of the 25th we sailed for Suva, in Fiji, and arrived there about 10 p.m. on Friday night. It was expected that the Health Officer might come out and grant us pratique, and so enable us to get up to the wharf, but after waiting around a bit we cast anchor for the night. In the morning early we got alongside the wharf, and found that the ship had been expected a day or two earlier.

His Excellency the Governor, Sir Henry Moore-Jackson, had given a ball on tne Friday night, and it was expected the members would have arrived in time to attend it. At 12 o’clock the Minister and most of the members called on His Excellency, and were very courteously received and entertained. The new Governor seems a capable administrator, and it personally popular, although there is a good leal of grumbling generally about the Government. I don’t think there is aiiy deep-seated desire for annexation to New Zealand. The mention of Mr. Humphrey Berkeley and his mission io England usually provokes a smile. What the white residents would really like would be a representative Government, which would give them the government of the colony in their own hands. Considering the fewness of their numbers compared with the native Fijians and cooties I don’t think their wish is likely to be gratified for many years to come. The colony of Fiji embraces a group of about 200 islands. The largest one, Viti Levu. contains over 4000 square miles, making it quite a continent bycomparison with any of the Cook or other islands belonging to New Zealand. The total area of all the islands is about 7500 square miles. The principal M*m of production is sugar, most of which comes to Auckland. In 1001 the export of sugar to New Zealand amounted to £351.456. and to Sydney £29 924 10/. Most of the import trade of the colony is d me with Sydney, the figures for 1901 the last published statistics, being; New South Wales. £271,441 7/10; New Zealand. £39,740 1/6. The production of these islands is much more varied than the other islands we have visited, but, like them , the Fijis are capable of producing many times the amount at present exported. The Colonial Sugar Company have just erected a most complete sugar crushing plant at Lautoka, said to be about the most complete and extensive Sugar mill in the world. When it gets fairly started the export of sugar

ought to be more than doubled in a very few years.

Vanilla is also being very largely grown, and one large plantation of cocoa trees, owned by Powell Bros., gives promise of adding another item to the list of exports. SUNDAY AND MONDAY IN SUVA. Saturday afternoon was spent looking round the town of Suva, which is considerably the largest town or city we had seen since leaving Auckland. On Sunday most of the members attended one or other of the churches in the town. Mr Black, the Ministers’ private secretary, con 'acted the service in the Scotch Church in the morning. The missionary work among the natives in Fiji has mostly liven done by the Wesleyuns, although the Roman Catholics have also a very considerable mission in the islands. THE BIBLE BURNING INCIDENT. The new Roman Catholic Cathedral iu Suva is a very fine structure. Cardinal Moran and a large party from Sydney are expected to visit Suva within the next few weeks to consecrate and open the building. A good d al of strife, both within and without Fiji has been raised lately regarding the burning of Bibles by the Roman Catholics. On the Monday when the party were entertained at a picnic up the Rewa Rewa River, we were shown the lime kilns where the burning took place. I think a good ileal more fuss has been made over the matter than the circumstances justified, and attempts have been made to discredit the Governor, who is a Roman Catholic, in connection with the affair. The general opinion of all classes in Suva is that the conduct of the Governor in respect to the different sects has been all that could be desired. The truth about the Bible burning seems to be something like this. A certain chief who was a Wesleyan had some disagreement with the Government, and found that the native Wesleyan teacher was siding with the Government against the chief. Determined to punish the teacher, he went to the Seventh Day - lventists and asked to be admitted to their Church with his people. As they demand a conscientious acceptance of their particular tenets which the chief could not profess, they refused to accept him. He then turned to the Roman Catholics, and with his people was admitted into their church. In accordance with the usual custom in such cases, all the old Bibles and hymn books were handed in to the priests. These were sorted out, and those considered fit for use were sent on to Suva, with the intention of handing them over to th 1 Wesleyan Mission. Those too soiled or torn for use were laid away in a corner, and one of the Sisters engaged in spring cleaning had them moved out on to a lime kiln to be burned. It does not appear that any ceremony or function of any kind was held in connection with the matter, but the fact having leaked out, a good deal of unnecessary feeling was generated both amongst the whites and the natives.' The total population of Fiji is about 120,000. of whom nearly 20.000 are Indian coolies, who have been imported for work on the sugar plantations. A large proportion of them, after finishing their contract term on the plantation, decide to remain in the colony. Many of the shops in Suva are kept by the coolies, and it would appear as if they would finally supplant the Fijians as the dominant race in the islands. The citizens of Suva were very hearty in their welcome to the party, and arranged a picnic by steamer up the Rewa Rewa River past the Colonial Sugar Company’s mills. The day was beautifully fine. and. the outing was a most enjoyable one. The luncheon —a most sumptuous one—was spread out in a chief’s house, the owner being a granddaughter of the old king Thaekambau. LEVUKA AND THE KERMADECS. After a most enjoyable stay of three days at Suva, the Mapourika left at midnight on the 25th, and arrived at Levuka early on the following morning. Levuka is the ancient capital of Fiji, and is situated on the island of Ovalau. Ovalau is a very small island, but has a central position among the islands of the group, and from here the principal exports of copra are made. The Minister and party were welcomed to Levuka by the chairman of the Town Board, Mr. Robbie. At 10 o’clock the party visited the public school conducted

by Mr D. Garnier Jones, a son o' Mrs Moore-Jones, of Remuera Ladies’ College, Auckland. The members were much impressed with the originality of the methods employed by Mr Jones in the education of the young people of Levuka. Some of the party visited the Metiavo Falls, about three miles out of the town. A native dance was arranged for three unlock, but owing to some misunderstanding about tire time, the natives had not arrived when most of the party left about four o’clock.

The steamer left at 5 p.m. for Sunday Island, in the Keroiadecs, which was reached about 4.30 on Friday, the 29th. The sea was very rough, and landing would have been both difficult and dangerous, and to have seen anything of the islands would have necessitated staying over arother day. so it was decided to steer for New Zealand. The temperature had already fallen considerably since leaving Fiji, and the light clothing used in the tropics had to be discarded. Saturday and Sunday was the roughest weather we had on the whole trip, and many of the passengers who had never been sick before succumbed to mal-de-mer. On Sunday evening we met the Sierra going, along at a splendid pace, assisted by the wind, which was taking at least two knots an hour off our usual speed. But for the stormy weather experienced during the last two days we would have arrived in Auckland at daylight on Monday morning: as it was. we did not get alongside the wharf until nearly 3 p.m. And so ended the great Cook and Other Islands Parliamentary Cruise. CONCLUSION. Whatever may be the opinion of the people of New Zealand, the m-mbers of the party believe it has been in the best interests of the colony. Whether for good or evil, the colony has annexed the islands, and must make the best of them. The colony has now a duty to perform towards the inhabitants who have become cur fellow colonists, and without a personal visitation any attempts at legislation must have be n of a bungling character. The trip has been talked of as a picnic, and certainly most of it was of an enjoyable nature, but the idea of duty was quite as prominent as the idea of pleasure, and all members are now furnished with a stock of island information which will prevent them from the display of ignorance which has characterised many of the speeches made in the House about the islands in past sessions. Any account of the trip would be incomplete without a reference to the many estimable qualities of the genial commander, Captain Crawshaw. A very wise selection was made in sending him in charge of the Mapourika. No skipper knows the islands seas better than he does, and it would be difficult to find a. man who eould have suited himself so well to the circumstances and characteritlics of the passengers. The appreciation of the party was expressed in a testimonial which was presented to him on the Saturday night before the ship reached New Zealand. This will be suitably engrossed and handed to him at a later date.

The same praise might be accorded to all the officers and members of the crew. Everything which could be done under the circumstances for the comfort of the passengers was done, and nothing but pleasant memories of the trip will remain in the minds of those who were privileged to participate. The total distance steamed was over 8000 miles, and the time occupied from Auckland was six weeks and two days.