THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXX, Issue XXVI, 27 June 1903, Page 1834

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

EVENING GOWN. Perhaps it is that there are so many balls ami evening functions just now proceeding that all the leading dressmakers arc talking of evening gowns. These are very lovely, and the novel trimmings in the way of glittering passementeries ami vivid bead trimmings are enormously employed both for bodice and skirt adornment. The skirts are cut very full, although of the thinnest possible materials, so that they in no way increase the size of the figure, while, at the same time, they add remarkable dignity to the wearer’s appearance. Pleated, gauged, and tucked chiffon still holds its own. The debutante of to-day, far removed from the thraldom of conventionalities, does not inevitably dance through her first season in white. Should white be her “colour” she wears it, knowing well that nothing is more suitable to girlhood; but should pink or blue or eau

de Nil, or even black, become her better, she leaves white to her mother, and gaily chooses the more pronounced hues herself. The drooping shoulder effect is noticeable indeed in evening toilettes. Corsages literally fall away from the shoulders, and the length of line from the throat downwards is accentuated by the V described by the decolletage, quite a new feature this season, though, of course, one that is borrowed from the past. For theatres even the debutantes are choosing the bodices that have high necks and long sleeves, made of materials so transparent and so sparingly used that the gleam of white arms and shoulders is revealed through them. Such toilettes are often more smart than a low-cut one, and invariably look Frenchified when well designed and made. As a rule the smart Parisienne believes much more in suggesting than in revealing the beauty of her shoulders and arms. Fashion this season does not

add to the long list of materials she favours for evening wear. Of late years she has never struck one from her list that suits her liking. Thus chiffon, mousseline de soie, crepe de chine, point d’esprit, and soft silk arrive again; the changes noticeable in their appearance are due to the novelty of their decorations or to the patterns on the fabrics, and to the manner in which the gowns are built. An evening gown which is very modish has a skirt of black tulle entirely covered with short festoons of jet beads, each festoon looped with a black velvet bow and jet pendants. The bodice has ■ a pointed basque of black velvet with a close and prim berthe and stomach'', of gathered tulle and jet festoons. These gathers cross the arms below the shoulders, and to them are asded frilled double ruffles of old lace. Xi cpiaint and coquettish toilette is.this. I

A PRETTY BLOUSE. The pretty blouse sketched owes much of its smartness to the way it is worn, as half the battle as regards the success of one’s toilet lies in the manner of putting it on. The dainty arrangement of the lace at the throat, the right adjustment of the belt, and the smoothing into place of blouse and skirt are more important items than many women consider them. The blouse depicted is made of soft cream silk, and has some lace applique for a trimming, and is particularly well suited for 'afternoon wear. There is much more in the actual way of wearing one’s clothes than the ordinary English woman imagines, indeed, more perhaps than in the clothes themselves, [which if badly worn will never look well

however rich and expensive the materials employed. The secrets of good dressing are as accessible to the poor as to the rich, and there is many a poor girl who appears to better advantage in her simple gown than her wealthier sister in all her ela-

borate toilette. There is a profound feeling of satisfaction in displaying good taste and a cultivated eye by selecting an admirable toilette at a small outlay.

A very pretty sleeve on a leading evening model was arranged in a most novel shape. The sleeve itself commenced below the shoulder, and fell in a kind of bag to hold the elbow. This "bag” was, of course, full, and very graceful, while a scroll piece of the glittering passementerie outlined the top of the sleeve over the shoulder, and fell towards the inside of the arm in a graceful scroll. Indeed, scrollings are a more fashionable arrangement of all trimmings than any other. Vandykes are used, but they are not so becoming, while the scroll is always artistic, and saves us from the error of a straight line.

The handsome lace collars, which daily become larger and more beautiful, have developed into quite a vogue, many of the most modish and charming “creations” in gowns and mantles being finished by a big cape-collar of one of many lovely laces now obtaining. In this figure, for instance, we have a beautiful gown of pale green brocaded silk—the skirt of which is plain—with a slightly pouched bodice opening over a tucked and insertioned vest of white silk. The sleeves have an applique of lace over the inner side, which merges into a cuff gathering in the bagging below the elbow, and finished by black velvet ribbon. Over the shoulders falls the handsome lace collar in question, further supplemented by a broad ribbon of black velvet. interlaced through and terminating in a loop and end either side, finished by a chenille tassel. The waist tie is also of black velvet ribbon.

Contemplate a full dress evening frock composed entirely of fringe, made of fine grey sewing silk, and to avoid the monotony of straight rows, bunches of fringe mounted upon cres-cent-shaped motifs of grey silk passementerie, which result in strange and yet distinct attractions. These are sewn upon the white silk foundation in undulating lines, but are so arranged

that the edges of the fringe fit into the spaces, so that in repose the entire foundation is covered. In walking, the slipping, shining threads of silk over the gleaming white present a beautiful ap pearanee, moulding the figure with infinite grace and, like all gowns not made for morning wear, flowing into an exaggerated train. A sketch of this gown will be found in this column.