THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXX, Issue XI, 14 March 1903, Page 766

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.

Hloii-e- seem only to liecome moie popular with each ensuing season, and many of us are now rejoicing in those which we purchased when the summer -ah s were in their first youth. It i' a great mistake to wait till the last few weeks of the sales, as by that time things have got tumbled about and crushed and soiled till they have lost half their value, and are really not even worth the ‘‘start ling reductions’ price'* with which they are ticketed- Earlier, however, there is no such safe and certain purchase as a well-made blouse. Among the prettiest styles this season are the silk skirts for moinirg or travelling wear, with small t lickings down the front divided by a narrow box pleat, which hoists ot a couple of rows of flat gold, enamel or mother o' pearl buttons. The sleeves of

such a blouse should not be of a very pronounced fashionable vogue, but. prefer ably, a small bishop’- sleeve set into a narrow band or cuffs. Indeed, although there are many very fanciful sleeves to be seen. I always caution all those who want a considerable amount of wear out of their clothes, to avoid anything which is very marked in dress, as these fashions are as fleeting as they are popular. Pelerines are still worn, some of the prettiest being made almost entirely of coarse lace over soft taffeta in pa’e shades. The ruffle, the pelerine, and the smart cape all seem very near akin, and they have their uses as the evenings grow chilly. The favourite wraps of the moment are the three-quarter Guards’ and Empire coats in cloth of white and pale shades, decorated with embroidery. Some of the dust cloaks are most elaborate, and chiefly cut in the Japanese style.

There is a smart and emphatically French hat we have seen much in evi-

dence, on the lines of the one sketched in this figure. These shapes are somewhat of the genus “mushroom,” beloved in early Victorian days, though larger in circumference, and flatter—that is to say, not so mush-roomy or basin-like as the originals one sees, and smiles at, in Leech’s old “Punch” pictures—are raised from the head by a bandeau of silk, velvet, ribbon, or wreath of flowers, or leaves, with a trail of one or the other hanging down the left side over the ear, and trimmed simply above by a wreath of leaves or flowers. The model we sketched was a Tuscan straw, rested on a bandeau of very pale blue silk with fringed ends hanging over the hair as described, and had a wreath of small purple grapes and leaves. This was worn with a blue linen gown insertioned with guipure lace, the throat collarless, and a big bow of lace on the left of the bodice. The big chou here referred to is

one of the finishes to the dressy toilette of the moment. It may be of silk, tulle, ribbon, chiffon, or velvet; or it may be a posy of flowers, but it must be big, and loose in effect, not looking heavy or rigid.

A pretty eoat from bygone days, shown in this column, has a modified capuchin hood round the shoulders. It could be made in fine cloth if not in taffetas, and must be given an edging of narrow fringe headed by a chenille openwork mesh, which is very quaint and charming. The fulness of the back is drawn in at the waist by means of a buckle, only to fall out again in a gra< eful fan-shaped sash-end. In front the little vetement can be left open or be drawn into the waist by a belt looselv fastened, and completed with pieces of ribbon and another buckle('ream camel’s hair cloth composes th >

most ideal wrap, it is so light in weight and yet so warm. The model of this column, it is suggested, shoo'd be made of it with peau de soie revers covered with crimson or black velvet applique dahlias, and a shoulder fringe of coarse chenille mesh ami fringe.

DARK GREEN CLOTH GOWN. This Fig. introduces a useful autumn gown of dark green cl th trimmed with black military braid, the fronts of bodice being like an officer’s coat with tabs

falling loosely at each end of a strap. It is cut open in front to show a silk shirt, and slightly pouched. The sleeve is edged down the outside with the braid, and left open near the wrist to show the silk shirt-sleeve through.