THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIX, Issue IV, 26 July 1902, Page 254

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

lii the matter of fashion, for the next week or two we stand, so to speak, at the parting of the ways; for many of us feel we would like to wait a little while before absolutely deciding in what clothes we are going to invest for the spring. Now the sales are displaying their attractions of great bargains. For women with good judgment in buying the sales form a real opportunity.

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There are some things that are always worth buying. At the present time good lace, real or fine imitation, must be included among such trophies; it is useful on every gown and cloak, and shows no sign of diminishing in popularity. Lace, in the form of collars, berthes, and what you will, xorms the most important part of an evening bodice. Always remember that the

MARGUERITE.)

appearance of lace is much improved by a layer of chiffon beneath. It sounds curious .to suppose that lace requires softening, but 1 assure you there is a vast difference between lace used with chiffon and that without. But I fear you must all be tired of hearing me say that without chiffon fashion would be dead indeed. Women are delightfully obstinate in some things, and fashion won’t

change them, although I doubt if it has ever tried to make them give, up chiffpn and lace. And, after all, it would puzzle the brain of a really good fashion designer to make a perfect gown without such additions. Rather a novel idea appears on a gown, a collar that might be termed a pelerine, made of tabs of lace hanging from the shoulders with fans of mousseline de soie between. This is only one of many graceful attempts to introduce some form of short shoulder cape. Military braid and galoon are making a bid for success, and are used on gowns as well as on jackets.

A new model of blouse that seems to have some novel features is xnade of a pink and white striped wash silk and closed with round, white silk crocheted buttons in place of studs. There is an attached choker of the same silk, with a little pleated rabat attached to the front of this, the rabat finished with a line of embroidered batiste. There are narrow turnover cuffs and collar of embroidered batiste.

Have you seen those new tied ribbon bows? They are just the thing that everyone is going to wear—that is, every one who can afford the luxury, for it takes quantities of ”ibbon to make them—even the simplest —added to the skilful fingers of the professional bowmaker. There is the Du Barry bow, similar to the one worn by Mrs Leslie Carter in the play of that name, and is a quaintly becoming headdress. Bunches of ribbon that closely resemble the modest violet are to be worn on the corsage. These are really economical when we remember what a short time a ounch of violets lasts. Other corsage decorations start with a small cluster at the shoulder, and so on, in a series, to the middle of the front and down to the belt. Can anything be more pretty for afternoon or evening wear, with some of these exquisitely simple gowns than a number of these bows in various styles and becoming colours? And then, too, how easy to produce the effect of having a greet variety of costumes by the j'ever changing of these bows among several gowns! Large black rosettes, often of gauze ribbon, are worn in the hair, toward the front, at almost any hour of the day. The younger people are wearing a butterfly bow at the back—quite at the nape of the neck- These are generally made of taffeta, moire or velvet, and mostly in blaek. Roses made in two or three shades of pink satin ribbon so closely resemble the real, or garden, rose as to defy detection. These are to be worn in graceful Spanish fashion, tucked into the hair behind the ear, or up among the waving front locks. Then again they find appropriate setting among the laces about the neck of a gown. Oh, there are a thousand and one ways to use these delicate and beautiful productions of the milliner’s art. One head dress is called the “toreador.” Then there are bows that can be made to cover the entire front of a bodice, or do duty upon the crown of a hat. There are the graceful bunches of knots, with streaming ends—each one ending in a tiny knot and the whole closely following out the idea of the shower bouquet. No matter to what use you may desire to put a bow, you can surely have just the thing you want made at any ribbon counter —to such perfection is this skill in bowmaking now carried. ® ® ® COAT WITH EMBROIDERY COLLAR. The Margaret coat is one of the most attractive offered among the fashions for children, and is fit for little girls of six, eight and ten years. It is suitable for ladies’ cloth in any desired shade, and the plait clusters extend front the shoulder to the skirt hem. the belt forming the dividing line, and the tucks released at the knee or above it to thus form the fullness in the skirt. The sleeve is gathered into a cuff of the goods, which is trimmed with a cuff of the

lace. The coat in the illustration is made of navy blue eloth. and the collar, which is of Renaissance lace,

forms an effective trimming. The mother who embroiders can embroider the collar of the goods with coloured silks. There is a shield piece which may be utilised in cold weather.

I am giving you a design for a very simple Empire froek for evening wear. It would look charming in black chiffon. Crepe de chino is equally lovely and wears well; certainly. it, is expensive to buy. but in the long run you will find it more economical than chiffon. The frock is a simple one. hanging loose from the deeolletage, where it is softened by some narrow frills; a very long sash passes round the body under :he arms, tying- in a bow at the back, with the ends hanging down on to the skirt. The hem of the skirt is finished with riiehings of black chiffon, and the long transparent inched sleeves are composed of the same fabric. ® ® ®