Gisborne and Poverty Bay.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVIII, Issue XIX, 10 May 1902, Page 910

Gisborne and Poverty Bay.

There are many historical spots in and about Gisborne. The full Maori name of the place is “Turangunui-a-Kiwa.” This is applied to the locality in the town, where two streams, the Taruheru and another, junction and form the river known as the Turanganui, which flows into the sea at the breakwater, and bears reference to the fact that here the famous ancient Maori navigator Kiwa landed from his canoe, after voyaging from the South Sea Islands, and stood for a long time at the confluence pondering over what course he should take in the exploration of the new,country. The high range on the opposite side of the river to the township, and at the foot of which the freezing works are situated, is known as the Kaiti, and the peak immediately overlooking the works is Titirangi. On the seaward face of the Kaiti Hill is a Maori settlement on the beach, and it was here that Captain Cook made his first landing in New Zealand, and was compelled in self-defence to shoot some of the natives.

The Waikane (Mullet River) is a salt-water creek which runs up a little distance from the Gisborne town foreshore. The Hon. J. Carroll’s house stands close to the backwaters of the Waikanae. It was up this creek, say the Maoris, that Captain Cook and some of his officers went duck-shoot-ing. They were very nearly cut off and killed by the wild aborigines.

Te Rau-Kahikatea, the native name of the pretty locality in the town on which the Maori College stands, bears reference to the white pine(Kahikatea) forest, which once covered the land on which Gisborne now stands.

A conspicuous feature of the landscape, looking out to sea from Gisborne, is the promontory known as Young Nick’s Head, a high white cliff, which forms the southern extremity of Poverty Bay. This remarkable foreland was named by Captain Cook after Nicholas Young, the sailor lad who first sighted the land of New Zealand, when the Endeavour was off Poverty Bay. The ancient Maori name of the Head is Te Kuri-o-Paba (“Paoa’s Dog”). Paoa was one of the very early Maori chiefs of this district. He had a pa somewhere at the Head, and his daughter married the son of the celebrated Kiwa beforementioned.

THE PRESENT

For political purposes, Cook and Waiapu Counties, generally known as Poverty Bay, are now included in the Hawke’s Bay Band District. During the last decade no part of the colony has made equal progress with this be ascribed tn its great resources, just becoming recognised. Cook County has an area of 1950 square miles, a population of 5700 persons, ■ nd a rateable value (1901) of £3,429,895. Waiapu County has an area of 1121 square miles, a population of about 500. and a rateable value (March, 1900) of £725,506. It -will thus be seen that most of the development work has been effected in the former. A considerable area of these counties is mountainous, but the major portion is highly suitable for grazing. The ■physical features of the inlaud country offer heavy obstacles to the opening up of railways and the cutting of roads, but they hold out every other inducement to. settlers. A bird’s-eye view would disclose a very picturesque scene of rolling hills, fairly high peaks, further back a thickly wooded country, ample watercourses, a lake or two, a few small enclosed flats of magnificent soil, and scattered small centres of population. It would also show that in the whole area but little development work had been carried cm, the opportunities for energy and capital in clearing bush and forming grazing stations being numerous. A good deal of pretty scenery would be seen —some charming river reaches, •waterfalls, caves, gorges, mountain climbing. and lovely pastoral settlements. The tourict, when satiated with the inspection of Gisborne and neighbourhood, has the chance of rid-

ing or driving along sequestered roads, observing Nature in her primeval state, judging the difficulties which beset pioneers, and seeing country waiting for the enterprise of courageous men to yield good returns. At Nuhuka and Waipiro there are mineral hot- springs, which should yet be used as sanatoriums, and on the Wairoa road are beautiful falls and caves well worth a visit. Journeys can be made to Napier on the one hand, through the Urewera hills and gorges to Rotorua on another, and to Opotiki, in the Bay of Plenty, on another. To those fresh from narrow fields and dense settlement, the experience is worth the trouble. The tourist, also, will be surprised at the anomalies which exist on the Poverty Bay flat, for instance, witnessing the products of several climes growing cheek-by-jowl, so to speak. A field of tropic maize is hedged with luxuriant hawthorn, and shadowed by a clump of gums (eucalyptus). The most delightful inconsequence is shown by Nature in this respect. The Poverty Bay flat is decidedly picturesque. The plain is plentifully decked with trees, and the rivers lined with willows and osiers. Here are clumps of gums, here poplars, here pines, here wild briars and here a hawthorn hedge. The sight of the farms, with their crops of maize, oats, and \ pumpkins, their herds of dairy cows, and their flocks of big sheep fit for the freezing works, stretching up to the hills around, is not easily forgotten, and one likes to compare the scene with that of the days when Te Kooti. with his fanatical war party, marched to their human slaughter. Occasionally, as the traveller pursues his quiet journey, he observes some well remembered English bird, and perhaps a Maori man and woman on horseback.

But while. Poverty Bay has its share of romantic and interesting scenery, it is not that upon which the residents pride themselves. The inherent resources of the place are more substantial blessings. Although considerable development work has been conducted in the last ten years there yet remains much to do. Many circumstances have contributed to the delay in taking advantage of the opportunities afforded. Because of the hilly country separating the district from neighbouring New Zealand centres of population, Poverty Bay might as w r ell have been on an island. The Government have been almost reprehensibly dilatory in providing the district with railways and other conveniences to assist the producer. For many years' railways connecting Gisborne with Napier and Wellington, and with Rotorua and Auckland, have been projected, and as early as 1886 a survey of a railway route to run from Napier to Gisborne, Opotiki and Waiapu was made by Mr Knorp. No. thing eventuated. A tardy recognition of the requirements has only recently been made by the partial construction of a light railway in the direction of Ormond, Mahia and "Rot orua. This was not done until a local Railway Deague, aided by the Chamber of Commerce and other bodies,’ persistently worried the Government. It is anticipated that the railway, which was the first seen by many residents of Poverty Bay, will have a useful influence cu. development on the route taken, (sooner or later connection must he obtained with the big centres, and sooner or later Parliament must give the district, which is likely to become an important field for obtaining revenue, its full share •of public works designed to assist the opening up of the country. One might safely presume that it will be eocm, for each year the Increased demand for areas for ciilttvation and for Tuns is bringing Poverty Bay into greater prominence. At present in the Cook County there are only about fifty miles of metalled roads, nnd 320 •miles of .'formed roads. The difficulties in metalling are great, as the Sly of suitable stone is apparently 1, although recent discoveries sqg-

gest that this trouble will soon be met. Then the condition of the harbour has also to some extent contributed to the isolation of Poverty Bay. Some years ago, by vote of the ratepayers under Act of Parliament, it was decided to borrow £200,900 to construct harbour works. The money was obtained and a breakwater was built at a cost of something like £ 100,000.

So much for the general aspect; but it is necessary to particularise concerning the resources. The primary resource of Poverty Bay continues to be, and probably always will be, sheep. No area in New Zealand is better adapted to this purpose. While the Poverty Bay plain, or that tract of fertile land, 65 square miles in extent, which stretches away from Gisborne, is suitable for many kinds of cultivation, it will also keep up to four and six sheep to the acre, demanding for this excessive pasturing of course, the planting of root and other crops. But it is on the long roll of hills that Poverty Bay is principally dependent for its sheep. All the slopes are adapted for sheep-graz-ing.excepting patches of inferior country covered with low manuka scrub. The appearance of these hilly lands is decidedly misleading, for, while they look rough, and a cursory observer might imagine that they were of very little use for pasture, the bulk will carry from one and a-half to two sheep to the acre. It can be safely asserted that all the bush country, when cleared, burnt, and sown down, is of such a capacity. The cost of clearing, etc., according to distance from the port, ranges from 15/ to 25/ per acre, and it is estimated that from 18,000 to 22,000 additional acres are now being brought into use every year. The increase of enterprise in this direction is the best example that could be wished of the improved condition of affairs in Poverty Bay. The expansion is remarkable, and it is worthy of note that, while the number of stock in the whole colony, since meat-freezing has become so big an industry, has considerably decreased, out flocks have shown quite an amazing increase. In 1883 there were 280,542 sheep in Poverty Bay; in 1888, 480.515; in 1896, 902.526; and in 1900 no fewer than 1,176.192. The stimulative influence on industry and trade of this expansion has been enormous. From 6818 bales of wool exported in 1884, the figures grew to 10.493 in 1891-1892, and 23.000 in 1899-1900. In 1888 there were 216,646 acres in sown grasses, and in 1900 587,237, or 1,191,430

in native aud other grasses. The figures of increase, from all accounts, in sheep, export- and grassed country, will be considerably augmented at the next returns. It is estimated that within the next few years a still more wuuderful change will come over this great industry. There arp large areas to be opened up which should bring the flocks up to anything between 3,000,009 and 4,000,000 sheep. Cattle are also a substantial resource, and much of the land that will carry sheep is also suitable for this stock. In 1900 there were 40,281 cattle in Poverty Bay, besides 9229 horses and 5464 pigs.

This considerable increase in the pastoral industry is largely due to local freezing works providing a ready market for the stock. There are two big freezing companies at work—that of Nelson Bros, and the Gisborne Freezing Works. These two institutions hav? had an immense influence on local pursuits of all kinds, the figures speaking for themselves, especially when compared with the live stock returns already noted. In 189192 some 2,980,4661 b of frozen meat were exported; in 1896-97, 4,787,9851 b, and in 1899-1900 more than double that quantity—lo,Bsß,2Bßlb. At the same time, the export of tallow has increased from 234 casks in 1884 to 1016 in 1896-97 and 2319 casks in 1900. When the value of preserved meats consumed in the colony, and fertilisers and other bi-products are added to these amounts, some conception may be gained of the importance of the meat-freezing industry. Freezing in the district was started on an old hulk in 1889 by Messrs Nelson Bros., who a year later erected large works, which they have added to from time to time in subsequent years. They are now as representative as any in the colony, and in the present season (1900-1) have frozen 145,759 sheep, 11,278 lambs, and 2541 cattle, and it is estimated that before the season is concluded some 10,000 more sheep and 500 cattle will be manipulated. Of the Gisborne Company, one of the largest and best locally-owned institutions, a full description is given in a succeeding column. Meat-freez-ing has raised the value of our live stock enormously, and overcome the difficulty of its isolated position by providing - a regular and ready market. Steamers call periodically at the port for the caijcases. At the present time lambs for freezing are sold at 10/ each, wethers at 14/ and 14/6, and cattle at £7 and £7 10/. Except on the rich plain by Gis-

borne, very little attention has been devoted in Poverty Buy to agricultural pursuits. At Motu and elsewhere there are areas suitable for cultivation, but the transport facilities being bad there is meagre encouragement. It has been already stated that the Gisborne plain is wonderfully fertile. and the best proof is in its yielding capacity. It returns from 50 to 70 bushels of maize to the acre, from 15 to 30 bushels of grass seed, 30 to 50 bushels of oats. 35 bushels of barley, from 30 to 00 tons of pumpkins and from 10 to 20 tons of potatoes. Maize is the principal crop, and about 100,000 bushels are produced annually. For many years the district has been noted for its grass seed, large quamit’-es being s**nt all over the col-

ony. !’ pipkins. as seen, yield prolific crops, and the sight of a paddock heavily bearing the vegetable in huge shapes is not forgotten. Sheep and cattle are fattened on them. Turnips, rape, white clover, wheat, lin•eed, horse beans and other products grow well, but are not largely cultivated. The whole of the Gisborne plain, which is worth from £l5 to £ 35 per acre, is covered with small farms, and judging from their appearance the farmers are thriving. A factor which is now largely conducing to their welfare is the successful pursuance of dairying. Next to meat freezing this industry has probably had more to do -with the flourishing condition of the Gisborne district than anyother. The rye grass, which grows abundantly, produces a high percentage of butter fat and a superior class of butter, and within the last year or two there has been a great increase in the export. The Kia Ora factory, which is described in another column, is pursuing a flourishing career, as is also the Matawhero factory. These are the only butter factories in Poverty Bay, but the attractions of the district to dairymen are sure to increase the number. Already there has been a substantial increase in the value of the farms as a result of this industry,and everything possible should be done to encourage the utmost enterprise in adding to the cow herds. Dairying will have much to do with the future prosperity of Poverty Bay, and Mr. Kinsella, the Dairy Commissioner, has a high opinion of the district. Fruit-growing as an industry is very small, but it can be said that all that is wanting is support in the way of getting the fruit to market. Ever;- kind of fruit compatible with the climate can be grown in abundance, and in the days to come, when orchards are worked on as business-like principles as. say, a freezing factory. Poverty Bay .should give a good account of itself. The producers want educating to the fact. Another resource which with railway connection may become highly important is timber. At Motu and elsewhere are ample supplies, and it only needs transport facilities to make them of substantial value. Tn the Motu district, for instance, is a large area of country bearing rimu, matai, pine and other woods, including some totara. This lies about fifty miles from Gisborne, and with a railway could be made a big source of wealth. At present posts for fencing ■and sleepers for railways, and building timber have to be brought from Napier or from Auckland, and it is absurd that it is necessary when there is so much good timber in Poverty Bay itself. This, also, is a matter for the future. Of minerals Poverty Bay has large deposits of petroleum, and evidences of gold (Urewera and in the Waiapu, gypsum, etc. At present little is done in the development of these, although a petroleum company is projected, and judging from the reports of experts should return big profits. At Makaraka a marsh gas is brought up tn the water from artesian bores, and has been ingeniously applied for lighting purposes at the local hotel and private residences’ "by Mr. Allan, of Allan & Jones. It supplies an excellent light, and is useful for cooking. Unfortunately, lack of space makes it impossible to dilate more fully on these various resources, but what has been written is sufficient to convey an idea •f “Hie possible future before Poverty Ray. Large areas of native and Crown lands have to be developed,and,

all things considered, there is probably not a district in New Zealand whieh presents such an excellent field for investment us this, in industry, in property, or in business investments the opportunities are many, and Gisborne real estate is now in great demand. Development in the country is always reflected in the principal centre, and therefore Gisborne should fare well. The commercial welfare of Bisborne is watched oter by a Chamber of Commerce, inaugurated in 1894, and the merchants and tradesmen are of an excellent stamp. The present, members of the Borough Council are Mayor John Townley, and Councillors .1. W. Bright, J. A. Harding, D. Hepburn, A. F. Kennedy, IV. T). Lysnar. IV. Miller, T. Morrison, l{. N. Jones and .1. Whinray. Mr. It. D. B. Robinson is the Town Clerk. The members of the Harbour Board are Messrs. J. Townley (chairman), W. H. Tucker, W. Sievwright. G. Matthewson. I>. Hep-’ burn. J. Macfarlane. J. Clark, W. Cooper, and J. Whinray. Mr. James W. Witty is the secretary and treasurer. The members of the Cook County Council are: Messrs. J. Macfarlane (chairman), T. Jex-Blake, W. Graham, J. Tombleson, A. Hutchinson, W. Cooper. W. King, and W. J. Mossman. Mr. J. Waren is clerk and treasurer. The members of the Waiapu County Council are: Messrs. A. H. Wallis (chairman), T. S. Williams, T. E. Sherwood, W. D. S. Macdonald, A. B. Williams, E. H. Henderson, and Wm. Milyer. Mr. Wm. O’Ryan is clerk, treasurer, etc.

For the statistical part of this article we are indebted to an excellent summary of the history of Poverty Bay, published in the “Povert v Bay lieraid” last year.