THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVIII, Issue I, 4 January 1902, Page 44

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

FOOTLIGHT FASHIONS. In the new play at the St. James’ Theatre (London) some very charming gowns are worn, and among the prettiest of all is the lovely evening dress of white crepe de chine worn by Miss Gertrude Kingston in the first act. The upper part of the gown is arranged en princesse, and looks as though it had been made from a white Indian silk shawl. It is elaborately embroidered with white silk flowers and bordered with a deep silk fringe, while on one side the fringed draperies are left open to show many little frills of soft white chiffon. On the low bodice there is a trimming of pearl embroidery and gold, the whole effect being very dainty and delicate. Miss Fay Davis in this act wears a pretty little gown of nutbrown erepon. with a bolero bodice, fastening over on one side, and a vest of ivory-white lace drawn down under a belt of nut-brown mirror velvet. Miss Julie Opp's evening gown in this aet is of white chiffon, finely pleated, and half hidden on either side under long panels of ecru guipure. through which wide black velvet ribbons are threaded in lines that run from waist to hem. Both at the back of the skirt and in front the white chiffon draperies are crossed

by insertions of fine black lace, while the bodice is arranged with a lace bolero to correspond, sewn with tiny silver paillettes. The bare shoulders are crossed by a trellis-work of black velvet ribbon in lieu of sleeves. Another very effective evening gown is that which is worn in this same act by Miss Granville. In the second act, the scene of which is laid in the garden at Blair House, in Dorsetshire, Miss Granville has a very becoming dress, with a skirt of cream spotted silk and a pretty bodice of tucked cream mousseline de soie with diamond-shaped appliques of lace let into it, and lace under-sleeves to correspond. Mrs. Kemmis looks well in pale grey cloth, ornamented with applique designs in darker grey, and trimmed on the bodice with Irish lace and black velvet. Miss Gertrude Kingston wears a gown of blue canvas, trimmed with ecru lace, while Miss Fay Davis has a dainty little dress with a skirt of white voile, and a blouse of soft white silk, finely tucked, and finished with a chemisette of transparent lace. Miss Gertrude Kingston in the third aet wears a simple gown of black silk grenadine, trimmed with black Maltese lace insertions, and in the last aet a long coat of black cloth, softened in front by floating ends of black accordion-pleated chiffon and

lace. Miss Granville has a striking gown also in the fourth act. It is made with one of the new corselet skirts in fawn-coloured cloth, laced with black at the sides, and filled in at the throat with a transparent collar of cream lace, and a deep yoke of chemisette of black and white silk, with an applique of cherry-coloured silk.

COSTUMES AT THE PLAY. Mrs Patrick Campbell is always well gowned, and in “The Second Mrs Tanqueray” she first appears in a wonderful evening gown of ivorywhite chine brocade, patterned with giant pink roses and pale green foliage. On the trained skirt is a long trail of pink noses showered with diamond dewdrops and falling from one shoulder almost to the feet. The low bodice is draped in bolero form with a long scarf of real silver tissue, which is drawn up with a Watteau pleat effect in the centre of the back, where two long ends fall clear of the waist and form a kind of floating train, finished with soft flounces of ecru lace. There are shoulder-straps of silver tissue, and little half-sleeves of brocade, leaving the top of the arm bare and finished with eeru lace

flounces at the elbow. The decolletage is outlined with huge diamonds, and in the hair a diamond butterfly is worn. Over this gown, at the end of the first act, Mrs Campbell throws a magnificent cloak of flame-coloured satin, veiled with pale yellow lace and flounced with chiffon. This cloak has a deep shoulder cape of flame-col-oured satin, embroidered with silver and diamonds, and finished with a broad band of sable. Mrs Campbel! wears in the third and fourth acts an evening gown of champagne-col-oured satin, veiled first with pale green chiffon, and then with ecru lace. The low bodice and the Direetoire train are of pale lime-green panne, and on the front of the bodice there are clusters of pale purple wistaria and draperies, and long stole ends of eeru lace, with large raised vine-leaves covered with iridescent paillettes. In “The Undercurrent,” at the Criterion. the dresses are smart and up-to-date. Miss Violet Vanbrugh wears a marvellous coat enveloping her from neck to feet. Chestnut brown serge composes the outside of the wrap (a colour in favour in Paris this autumn). ivory satin lines in it, and there is a collar of pale old rose colour embroidered with brown braid. The front and collar linings are of pleated ivory mousseline de soie, and

there are a cravat of point d’Alencon, a chain and large buttons to fasten the •varment on one side, with further touches of rose velvet. The creamy white Argentan lace gown oyer which the coat is worn has a ceinture of rose velvet, and a transparency at the throat decorated with an embroidery of green leaves and shaded pink flowers. . . Miss Anna Robinson, as the American girl, wears a lovely mousseline de soFe gown, with a galaxy of exquisite embroideries done in silver and diamonds. It has billowing foot frills and handsome silver-spangled collar that falls from the decolletage. The striking contrast of milkmaid elbow sleeves of rich cream lace is given to this blue gown. But the frocks that are exciting most attention just now are those of “The Last of the Dandies,” at Her Majesty’s, which is essentially a costume and bric-a-brac play. The period, some sixty years ago, was that when the crinoline, or, at any rate, considerable fulness of the skirt, had reigned for nearly two decades, close little cottage bonnets were the survivors of the coal-scuttle of the thirties, sleeves were as full of vaga-

ries as they had been since the twenties, though in less exaggerated forms, and the hair was still worn either in bunches of ringlets abow the ears, or by sedate women with a centre parting and straight Madonna curtains, ending in “braids” at the back of the head. The costumes vary from grace to grotesqueness, from simplicity to garishness. As the famous Lady Blessington Miss Lily Hanbury dresses charmingly. In the first act she wears a rich blue satin dress, the skirt quite full, pleated at the back up to the waist and round the pointed bodice in front. The bodice is cut low. and a loose string of pearls is worn low down on the neck. A white satin muslin cape like fichu finishes the bodice, and is caught in front with a cluster of pink roses. A widebrimmed flat-crowned ivory-tinted lace hat has roses most becomingly placed under the brim, while over the sides hang veil ends of the lace. The sleeves are long and tight, and o! satin, whiile an emerald bracelet is worn outside the left sleeve. Miss Hanbury wears her hair divided in the centre, and drawn to either side, and makes a most delightful picture.

In the brilliant reception at Gore House. Miss Hanbury looks very queenly in a beautiful rich oysterwhite satin dress, with a deep lace flounce put on full all round, and l eaded with a quilling of itself. The bodice is pointed in front, and the skirt pleated in round it. It is cut well off the shoulders, and a string of emeralds, with an emerald and diamond pendant, is stretched across it. Several diamond ornaments are worn in the lace round the berthe. The hair is dressed beautifully, but quite simply, with the centre parting of the famous Lawrence picture, and on the crown of the head is a golden comb, enriched with long pearshaped pearls, from which a slender chain with a single cabochon jewel falls over the white forehead. A red scarf is worn loose round the shoulders and over the fore-arms. Mrs Tree, as Lady Summershire, wears a full gown of grey silk shot with gleaming steel and figured with bows and spots in black. The perfectly round-cut-low bodiee is furnished with a deep round collar of black and white laee, embroidered richly with steel, and having on it applications of raised shell-like small pieces of white

crinkled crepe. The hair in this case is arranged in a cluster of curls at either side of the face, eaught with diamond slides, while the knob at the back is upheld by a large ami handsome ornament of diamonds. A black lace scarf, spangled with steel, iworn, and the only colour is supplied by a cluster of red roses at one si<|, of the hair. Mr Tree’s costume, too. deserves a few words. As Count D'Orsay he is veritably a “dandy." especially in evening attire, with stays on beneath a frilled shirt, fastened by jewel studs, and a brocaded vest, and quite a little waist! At Crockford’s he appears in a full black cloak, touched with blue silk, almost like an academic hood, and for the river fete is splendid in white duck trousers, an immaculate white shirt, all frills and furbelows, and a verv tall, dun-coloured beaver hat.