THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue XX, 16 November 1901, Page 960

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(BY

MARGUERITE.

A great deal of old-fashioned simplicity is noticeable in the making of siiiiinuer frocks that soft, fluffy style that has ever been the ideal of mankind generally and to be “such a dear eifeminate gill" has once again established itself as tin* highest aim in the art of pleasing. My lady has frills of lace falling over her fair white hands. and languidly drooping putt’s and jabots of lace at her throat, and ribbons at her waist and light ruffled skirts. Some of the most expensive fabrics are made modestly to hvlie their cost. They Lave plain little round yokes, with narrow berthas of lace, on the slightly bloused. unlined bodices, and short sleeves with lace elbow frills. A word of warning: Do not allow

your dressmaker to make your st: skirts for summer wear as long as those worn last year. This season': street gowns, although long enout.*' shorter than those worn six months to be graceful, are several inches ago—so short that they can be ht I i p easily. The correct cloth s\ trails only an inch or two; duck and canvas skirts just touch the ground. Thin gowns are still made with very long skirts and are very billowy about the foot. Muslins this year are prettier ever, and everyone can be well dressed. Of course, a great deal depends on the making, but as simplicity is the order of the day. we can be nicely gowned at small cost, provid-

ing we bring individuality, taste and skill to bear. At the same time, some of the most lovely gowns show an amazing quantity of work in tucks and insertions, and these when in muslin, crepe de chine or batiste, can only be effective when done by the mastei hand and untouched by a machine. Some of the prettiest plain glace or crepe de chine blouses have deep collars of embroidered lawn: these collars are worn low on the shoulders, and produce rather a sloping effect, with an inner vest of tucked lawn and lace to correspond. Beautiful, too, is the blouse of white Oriental satin or panne, with a deep collar of old lace inserted with incrustations of old silver filigree

work and cut slightly decollete at the neck. White, always in fashion, especially in summer, with all women who can afford it, is to have a greater vogue than ever this year, and dressmakers are already filling orders for lovely gowns of sheer white muslins trimmed with ruffles of the same, edged with lace. Many of the new empire tea gowns are either ot white, cream colour, or palest lilac, all fluffy, with lace and chiffon. Belts are a great feature of the new' gowns, and they are of every width and kind imaginable. Wide belts of silk or soft ribbon draped mound the figure are specially noticeable on thin gowns, and it is possible to vary one’s costume very

successfully by having a variety of belts. Almost any kind of gold braid and black velvet is in order. In fact, this is one point in accessories of dress where good taste can run riot, and build any sort of dress which fancy can conceive and not be out of fashion. S> ® -S

Ihe costume depicted in the accompanying sketch is in nut brown cloth (a Very popular colour jusi now), with a large collar and small waistcoat of cream satin, with; an applique of the same outlined with gold thread. The vest, jabot, long tie. and under sleeves are of cream chiffon. The skirt is long and plain, being simply very narrowly piped at the sides and stitched. With this wear a large toque of brown tulle trimmed with a wreath of shaded green leaves and a good paste buckle.

I am giving a design for a gown of voile, which material promises to be a very popular one this season. The skirt is cut in two pieces, the under one being braided in a panel down the front and round the flounce with black velvet ribbon, while the upper skirt is scalloped at the edges and also braided in two irregulai- rows. The bodice is plain at the back and sides, but the fronts are scalloped and piped with velvet over a. braided panel to match the skirt. This will give a suggestion of length. Have a tucked white enepe de chine chemisette, and arrange the laee epaulettes as seen in the sketch. A little rosette fin'ishes the chemisette, off at the left side. The sleeves are long and small, scalloped and piped at the wrists from whence hang frills of the crepe de chine, chiffon or laee.

This is a cream cashmere tea gown, with a loose front of! cream lace from the yoke, eaught at the waist with a velvet band. The yoke and sleeves are of tuekeu cream mousseline de soie, and frills of the same outline the tea gown

down the side and round the hem. Phe fichu is finished off at the left side with a bow of black ratin ribbon.

I liis is a smart tailor-made gown of dark, grey-faced cloth, with revers on coatee, cuffs and straps on the skirt of white panne. jetted with tiny beads. 'Three old silver buttons form an effective finish to the new coatee.