AS SEEN THROUGH WOMAN’S EYES.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue XX, 16 November 1901, Page 957

AS SEEN THROUGH WOMAN’S EYES.

Real Lace.

The fascination inherent in all real laces was probably never more thoroughly appreciated than now, when its wonderful adaptability is proved to be only equalled by its fascinations. Real lace embellishes everything it

touches. It serves equally for the adornment of youth or age, by day or by night, in summer or in winter; whilst on the question of its becomingness every right-minded woman is absolutely free from doubt. The healthy feature is this:August fashion decrees that imitation lace — that in the true sense of the word is

not lace at all—shall be relegated to its proper position, to be used only when neither personal skill nor means are available for the supply of the former. English point lace still holds a very strong position in spite of the coarse and inferior quality of the specimens purveyed to the multitude. For now,

as always, lace that is in the least worthy the attention of refined tastes can only be obtained by the expenditure of a large amount of time and skill, or their equivalent in money. The difficulties to be overcome in its manufacture, however, are by no means insui mountable. The stitches are easily mastered, as the following

directions will show. It may be observed that the foundation of almost every known lace stitch is the common buttonhole stitch. The bearing of this fact in mind will very much simplify the following directions: — No. 1 is open buttonhole stitch, leaving a tiny loop between each stitch, all of equal size. Every other stitch is buttonhole. No. 3 (Point de Venise), a very beautiful stitch when properly applied. Work a row of close buttonhole stitches, one into every lace loop. Carry the th lead to the opposite side, ami work the next row. one into every stitch, and over the thread that was carried across. Carry the thread to other side and work in the same way throughout. This stitch may be varied by placing the stitches slightly further apart. When the space is large holes are sometimes left with very good effect. Thus, to form the hole work 2 or 3 stitches into the thread only, but not into the stitches of last row. When making lace stitches bring the needle out towards you. No. 2. Work a row of small open stitches; second row. open buttonhole stitch into first loop of last row. then work three buttonhole stitches back into the stitch you have just made, a single stitch info next loop, then three stitches back into the stitch just made; repeat these two lines. No. 4. Two rows of open stitches, then carry thread across and work two stitches into every loop of last row. and also over thread as in No. 2; work two more lines as in No. 2; sth row. one open stitch into every second stitch of last row; 6th row. one into every loop; repeat second and third rows. Nos. 5 and 6 explain themselves. No. 7. These are buttonhole stitches, only the thread must be passed twice over the needle and then drawn outward to make long twisted stitches. No. 10 is the detail of the spid • to be seen in various parts of the collarette. All the threads must cross each other in the centre. Tinneedle is then passed over and o\ei

each thread to form a twisted line. To form the spider pass the needle over one thread close to the centre and under the next. Pass the needle hack over Live 2nd twisted thread ami under the next. Pass it hack over the 3rd and under the It h. amt so on. round and round the outside of each row till the spider is complete. then carry the thread over and over the thread that still remains untwisted to the lace braid 11. There should be an uneven number of threads in this whenevei possible, as the spot is made by simple darning. Pass the needle over one thread and under the other without any back stitches. An uneven number of threads allows of their being taken up alternately in every succeeding row. 12. These circles can generally be bought ready made, the invariabk practice in the coarser and ••heaper lace. To make them, work button hole stitches the proper distances apart, leaving a loop that will reach nearly to the centre of the space between each stitch. Then run the needle through lasu loop so formed, and draw up into a circle. Pad the edge of circle by running the thread, darning fashion, round and round several times till you have the required thickness. Cover closelx wi*h buttonhole stitches. holding the thread towards you. Circles that are i ndepemlent of lines are made In winding firm thread several times round a very thick black lead peue 1 . but not drawing too lightly. When the required thickness is obtained, cover closely with buttonhole stitchis whilst tin* thread is still on the pencil, ami draw off. Circles so made are sometimes very useful.

p.i tto.x holes w rrn pic<its. (No. 13.) 13. Background with picols. These lines are closely covered with bin tonhole stitches. To make picots, fasten the thread to the linen foundation with a very fine pin, on“ eighth of an inch below the last buttonhole stitch, work four or five buttonhole stitches back into the thread thus fastened down, and continue tilling up the lines. To make the broken, irregular lines, carry the thread loosely across and when only partly tilled up with

stitches carry the thread ag-ain in another direction, and fasten the braid. Work back ag’ain with buttonhole stitches and picots to the place from whence you broke away.

A way of making picots is to leave a loop between two stitches, hold this loop down under the thumb and work a buttonhole stitch over the loop close to the line in order to keep the loop quite firm. When beg I ]lining the lace, and after the lace braid has been very firmly sewn to the pattern. it is necessary to i un a thread round the inside edge of every circle to bring the braid into the proper shape.

o o o o o Sympathy.

A POPULAR WOMAN’S RECIPE EOR A (HARM AGAINST BOREDOM. One wonders sometimes why a particular woman, for women especially excel in the exercise of this gift, attracts universally: why she is popular with men. women and children alike wherever she goes. To a woman of this type came one day some girls. “Why is it.” they said, “that everyone seems to like you? That you are so popular, not only with your own sex, but with men of every age and description? We want to be agreeable. to make friends, to win admirers, and to get on socially. Yet e\en young men of our own age prefer to come and talk to you if they get the chance.” She thought for a moment or two and then frankly said: •'My dears, 1 think it must be this: 1 am interested in others, and they feel it- young people, perhaps, more even than older ones, for youth is proverbially self-conscious. My interest is not assumed, for in that case it would not have the same effect; it is a genuine feeling. When people talk to me 1 give them my undivided attention, and they feel that what they are saying and thinking and doing is of real interest to me. To be bored or apathetic or nervous yourself is to inspire others with the same sensations. If sympathy is a virtue, it is as certainly its own reward, for it creates a responsive feeling. If it does not come naturally to you, girls, to take interest in things concerning other people, try to cultivate it; try to be unselfish and to make the passing moment pleasant to those who are sharing it with you. Sow little seeds of sympathy as you pass along and you will reap a rich harvest of friends. That,” she concluded, with a smile, “is my recipe. Try it.” It certainly is a fact that one grain of this charm is able to leaven a whole mass of boredom. There was once, and there may be still, a College of Beauty, where a directress and an efficient staff train-

ed girls to be pretty and attractive to the eye. Even plain ones, after a lengthened course of development, were so improved by careful emphasis of their good points, figure, hair, complexion, grace of movement, expression, and so on, that they could in time claim a certain degree of prettiThis is well so far as it goes, and always supposing that girls have time and money to spend on personal enchantment. But it goes no further than apprec.at ion of the outward charm, which is neither dependable nor lasting; ard there are not many girls who would have leisure or means to be- < ome collegians. The training that leads to real and durable attractiveness, that gains heartfelt admiration, liking, love, can be inculcated in a few short lessons. TO GIRLS WHO FAIL TO PLEASE. To girls who, for some undefined reason, fail to please in a general way. though here and there they may gain a friend, an admirer, a lover, and who would like to feel a conscious power to attract a certainty of social success at any time or place, there is this to be said. To begin with, a soft voice and a quiet manner are desirable; sympathy is not easily expressed in boisterous tones or a bustling' or ma nnered demeanour. Given these, there are few pre- < epts to remember. Do not ask a series of deliberate questions, but try to ascertain what subject interests your partner in conversation, and if you know’ little or nothing- of it, be sure that an intelligent listener is always appreciated. THE DULLEST PERSON HAS SOME SPECIAL INTEREST. Even the dullest-seeming man, the most raw youth, has some coign of vantage where he feels at home: and if you lead him to talk of this, and you demonstrate the fact that he interests you. you increase his self-respect. you convey a pleasant tingle of self-satis-faction. and you win the return of his gratitude, his interest, perhaps his affection.

Be frank, without rudeness, natural. without familiarity; merry and serious by turns: de not try to be clever. and learn to discuss without heated argument, deferring to a contrary opinion with courtesy and consideration.

Put aside self-consciousness; the person whom you address may be o’der. more important, better in every way than yourself, but this need not make you either defiant or nervous.

You may be only a girl, but everyone has been a girl or a boy once, and you can but do your best to please, doing it with a kindly motive, and not from mere vanity or policy.

If you bear all this in mind you will find generally—indeed, almost invariably—some measure of success. The injunctions, “Be pitiful, be courteous,” were not given idly by the man whose opportunities for strife showed him what a gentle influence could do; they hold the secret of a very real power of attraction, which can be summed up in this one word—sympathy. O <"> o o o

Lip Reading.

According to a physiognomist, the lower lip is the most important part of the mouth as an indicator of character. According to its fulness, freshness in appearance and width, it indicates benevolence and liberality. A pale, shrivelled and narrow lower lip reveals a decided want of these qualities. There are thick under lips that hang so that they become almost a disfigurement, and these, as well as looking ugly, denote indolence anda love of luxury. Taking the opposite extreme, however, it is not desirable to have pronouncedly thin lips, for when the outline of the lips is narrow and united to a mouth with a sinister expression, there is indicated a great deficiency of natural kindness in their owner, a want of warmth, and but little capacity to love. Well defined and developed lips, the outlines of which are rounded out. are admired for their beauty and moral worth, being, as they are. tokens of a tender-hearted, amiable, and sympathetic disposition. Well closed lips are a sign of discretion. If the upper one is long, in addition to being pressed down firmly upon the lower one, both mental and physical power appertain to their owner. Supposing the upper lip is very short.

and the middle teeth of the top row are constantly exposed, a fondness for praise is betrayed. Frequently another type cf mouth is seen, one in which the corners of the lips descend, indicating a person of a despondent disposition, prone to dwell over much upon the serious side of life. But when the corners turn up in the form of a Cupid’s bow. their possessor is of a bright and cheerful nature, always finding a silver lining to every cloud and good in everything. 00000

A Princess of Sweden.

Princess Victoria, of Sweden, the cousin of the Emperor William, recently. while cruising off the coast of Finland in company with her husband on board the Swedish Royal yacht Drott, appeared on the bridge of the vessel wearing a uniform cap of the German navy. Shortly afterwards she was visited by the captain of the yacht, carrying on a silver plate the cap of an officer of the Swedish navy. With quiet courtesy the Princess was invited to try on the cap. “Thank you very much." replied her puzzled Highness, “but I am quite satisfied with the one lam wearing. It was given to me by the Emperor William II." "Your Highness will excuse me," was the captain’s response, “but at present we are under the Swedish flag, in which ease it is necessary for all on board to wear the head dress prescribed by His Majesty the King of Sweden.” Very much annoyed the Princess at once left the bridge of the yacht Drott and appeared on deck no more during the day. Next morning, however, when she came on the bridge again, the German naval cap was no longer on her fair head; the Swedish cap had taken its place.

Man, Woman, Car and Telephone.

Of course there is nothing in the oft-repeated reflection on the partiality of woman for the conversation of her own making. This is as poor a joke and almost as old a joke as the mother-in-law joke (says a writer in the New York “Herald”). There are statistics to prove that a majority of mothers-in-law are happy-souled. tactful exemplars of benignity, ready to defend son-in-law at the drop of the hat; ever working toward the cementing of the marital bond, watchful at all times of the opportunity of making home one grand, sweet song. The original mother-in-law joke was undoubtedly written by a poor wretch who had no mother-in-law of his own, and revenged himself for the void bv slandering the mothers-in-law of his more favoured friends. What is true of the mother-in-law joke is true also of the talkative woman joke. The tireless-tongued feminine is an invention of a paid humorist, and there are few sadder things under heaven than the paid humorist. As a matter of fact, women prefer silence and meditation to speech and gossip. Look in at any afternoon tea. if you will, and observe the large chunks of silence forming here and there throughout the rooms. Take in a. matinee performance, and see the stillness hovering like a pall over the heads of the young girls. One can almost hear what the actors are saying, it is so quiet. Note the blonde typewriter and the brunette typewriter just a-s the nondescript typewriter has quitted them. Are they talking about her? Nay! Nay! They

are not even conversing. Multiply instances as far as you like, the result is the same. Woman is by nature a silent, secretive organism, abhorring the sound of the human voice; a flat tering listener, but an infrequent speaker.

And woman is the victim of the paid jokist.

[Note by the Editor. —The foregoing was submitted by a young man recently married, who begged us to use it at any price, or without price. We have no idea what animated him to the contribution, but we repeat, he is a young man, recently married. Some time later he reappeared, looking less wild, and bringing a second contribution. “You will please not insert my first statement.” said he; “1 prefer that this one be printed.” Again, we have no idea of his inspiration, though it occurs to us that he was, on the occasion of his second visit, married somewhat longei than when he first called. We cannot recall the former expression, but in justice to the contributor, we print also the second.—Editor.] Humorists (so writes the youngman) are the fanciful workers in the prosaic field of real things. The jest is the outcome of the trim. The particular jest regarding the garrulity ef woman proceeds from an observable condition. The perpetual motion of a woman’s lips is as unconscious as it is undeniable. And rapidly it is becoming symbolic in serious sources.

The latest instance is to be found in the street car advertisement fo. a telephone company. A man sits at one end of the sign. A woman at the other. They are supposed to he using the telephone from honm to office. Note the arrangement The man has the receiver at his ear. The woman has her mouth pressed to the 1 elephone.

Gem Lace is “ The Thing.”

As gem set lace has become the fashion women with leisure have found a new amusement anti are patiently adorning shoulder straps, fichus, and collarettes with seed pearls and pearls of all other sizes. Dainty fans of Brussels lace will be powdered with opals, emeralds, sapphires and such colourful stones, although brilliants will be in high favour. Indeed, all effective stones will be popular for this novel purpose, and garnets, with their rich, deep tint, may be expected to emerge with the others from their long and ignominious seclusion. The stones to be used in this decoration are specially mounted, with tiny loops attached by which to secure them. It is said that in England several women of fashion have actually studied the goldsmith’s art in Florence and Milan, and melt their own gold and make their own necklaces, bracelets and buckles. Others have taken up enamelling on metal, and ther seems to be a general craze for the decorative arts among English women of social prominence. One titled woman is embroidering a set of satin panels for the walls of the drawingroom in one of her country houses. o o o o o

The New Story-Telling Bangle.

In the strict old days girls were not allowed to wear jewellery until they were presented and made their debut in society. Nowadays, however, endless little inexpensive, but beautiful, bangles, brooches, and even rings are worn by girls who are still in the schoolroom. At present the storytelling bangle is a novelty, and a very pretty one. The exciting history of the House

that Jack Built affords an excellent one to be worked out in charms. It is fortunately long, and well supplied with interesting characters. On the bangle hang the rat, the bag of malt, the cat, the dog. the cow with the crumpled horn, the maiden all forlorn, the man all tattered and torn, the priest all shaven and shorn, the cock that crowed in the morn, and. last of all. Jack and his famous house. A simpler bracelet is made up of the dramatis personae of the old rhyme of the Three Blind Mice, in which instance the carving-knife is of great importance; and then there is the sad story of Cock Robin, with all the circumstantial evidence connected with that famous murder, to f o-m a very interesting object lesson.

Just a Few Thoughtlsts.

Necessity is often the jockey that compels the lazy mare, talent, to win in the race against hard luck. Success, like a trolley car. is liable to strike us unexpectedly. When it does we want no femh-r. ami guarantee there’ll be no suit against the One can never judge by the outside of a man, or tailor-made jacket, the condition of the lining-. If the polish which some people so generously bestow upon their tinger nails could be transferred to their manners life would be more of “a grand, sweet song." Happiness and a contented mind can give cards and spades to any known method of facial massage. Opposition is frequently an eyeopener as to tin- path in which our inclinations really lie. Perseverance and a rich aunt can do wonders for a poor but deserving young man.