THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue IX, 31 August 1901, Page 428

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(RY

MARGUERITE.)

Here are a few suggestions for fancy dress balls. The first figure represents a sporting dress in white satin and black. Night comes next and is extremely effective. My next sketch is Dolly Varden. The tight pointed bodice opening over a chemisette of white silk muslin and the ample panniers must be made of a nice old fashioned looking brocade—pink roses on a silver grey satin ground, just pointed with silver thread, look charming worn over an embi oidered silk petticoat of palest pink. The tight elbow sleeves fiounc ed with lace and tiny ruches of pink silk outlining the corsage complete :: very dainty little frock. A tiny fan will be carried, and silk mittens wil*' take- the place of gloves, the hair being carefully dressed a la period, hut not poudre.

Apropos of this style of dress, it may be remarked that gowns which need to be historically accurate are always best entrusted to some well known costumier, who is accustomed to turning out dresses of all periods for stage purposes, as it is naturally not to be expected that a modiste whose end and aim in life is to b> up to date, should be an authority on modes which have been obsolete for centuries. And unless one is personally conversant with all the details, and capable of supervising the entire making the chances are that the dress will fall far short of perfection if entrusted to any but experienced hands.

The next sketch can justly claim to share the honours of novelty with thu sporting dress. It represents, of course, the popular game of poker.

The lady representing this fickle fair will be garbed in a tightly fitting skirt of black satin, upon which a pack of cards is painted in sets of five, precisely as if they had been dealt for playing. A fan-shaped head dress of cards crowns the coiffure, displaying a most enviable hand of clubs.

The bodice of this gown is made simply in the style of an ordinary evening frock, being slightly pouched in front; but it gains distinction from its glittering corselet of coins—imitation sovereigns, we will suppose —of which a single string carried over the shoulders forms the total amount of sleeve which Dame Fashion permits her votaries at present.

With this costume, of course, any amount of ornaments, in the shape of bangles and neck chains, may be worn.

provided they be gold, to correspond with the corselet.

Flower costumes of various descriptions are generally popular, if not always particularly distingue looking, but the charming “Lily of the Valley” dress here sketched could hardly be surpassed either for style or beauty. The foundation is of pure white satin, which gleams through the over dress of pale green mousseline de soie. very much as the sweetest of woodland flowers gleams through its sheltering leaves. At the hem of the skirt is placed a light but rather bulky niching of lilies, interspersed every here and there with a few delicate blade-like leaves. Just above this a white satin ribbon is lightly festooned, and small bunches of lilies with their own leave: are dotted at intervals over the skirt.

The corsage, as may l>e seen ill the sketch, has the effect of one gigantic bunch of lilies, and some little ingenuity will be required to bring this charming idea to a successful issue. The ground work of the bodice should be of pale green, precisely matching in shade the mousseline do soie of the skirt. Round the top of it thick clusters of lilies must be arranged back and front, and rather narrow pale green ribbons, slightly stiffened at one edge, must be drawn lightly downwards from bust to waist, to simulate the stalks.

This effect is heightened by the jauntily tied waist band of white ribbon.

But after all the crowning glory of this dress is the hat. It is made of soft straw woven in basket pattern, and indeed it represents nothing more nor less than a fancy basket turned upside down, the crown being formed of what would be the body of the basket in ordinary usage. A wreath of lilies crowns it,

and tlie handle is formed by the strip:! of green satin fattened to the extreme edge of the brim, and tied daintily under the chin.

The impersonation of "Lady Gay Spanker” affords an opportunity to those whom riding dress becomes, for ariaying themselves in the most becoming of costumes, namely, the long skirt, cut away coat, and lace cravat, and the iteplumed hat, which gains such infinite grace and distinction from the powdered wig and patches which appear beneath them. The dress shown here might be carried out very effectively in a soft shade of maroon habit cloth, or even velvet, the vest being of pale pink satin, and the cravat of snowy lace.

The coat will be lightly bi aided with gold, and fasten with buttons to correspond, and the big picture hat is of maroon felt, trimmed with shaded plumes galore. A powdered wig will prove an infinitely more satisfactory investment than going to the trouble of bleaching one's own hair for the occasion.

not to speak of the trouble entailed afterwaids. There can be no two opinions about the excellent effect this costume produces at a fancy dress ball, its only drawback being the management of the skirt and the inconvenience of dancing in top boots. The seventh figure shows our old friend “Winter*' in a new garb, viz., in a gown of grey satin, edged with swansdown, just lightly powdered with fiost. A veiling of white net. spotted with chenille balls about the size of an ordinary snowflake, covers this and also drapes the corsage. The principal trimming of the latter consists of an applique design of mistletoe. The coiffure worn with this costume is also powdered and surmounted by a spray of real mistletoe, but timorous maids will doubtless substitute the harsher holly. A charming black and white Pierrette costume has the merit of being exceedingly smart, and could scarcely fail to exalt its wearer above the com monplace in any assemblage. It has a double skirt of white satin

over black, both being cut in slender points at the bottom, and having 4 black chenille ball at the tip of every white one.

Krom either hip depend three graduated tongues of white satin, stitched at the edges with black, and each finished with a big pompon. The quaint crossover bodice has a vasrade-like frill arranged over the shoulders, finishing at the waist on one side. A fly away frill of black and white is worn round the neck, and on the head is set a jaunty cocked hat ornamented with black plumes. The remaining sketches of heads offer further suggestions which may be carried out on established lines. A Spanish gipsy dress would. of course, be rhe natural accompaniment to the becoming “Zingara” head dress shown at the head of the page, whilst a second “Pierette" dress ano an Early V ictorian toilet would be demanded by the others, the details of which may. however, safely be left to the taste of the weaier.

Suggestions for Fancy Dress Balls.