THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue VII, 17 August 1901, Page 332

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(BY

MARGUERITE.)

Fashion includes almost everything this season, and so many and varied are her ideas that she defies you to create one of your own. But on three particular things has she set her seal—the flaring skirt, the blouse front ami the bolero. They are without question the foundation of every toilet, and they lend themselves to endless changes. The skirt may have the applied ruffle or the circular flounce, or it may frill out about the feet with a trimmed accordion plaiting. Any of these changes may be rung on the skirt so long as it flares at the bottom and is beautifully and impracticably long. The skirt of the present, the one which is absolutely "the thing”—with the accent on the "the”—has more fullness in the side gores and a marked fullness in the back. The front, of course, is very plain and clinging, 'hit the golf skirt is fuller, a feature

that does not recommend itself to the golf player. However. Fashion says. "Play golf in a much fuller skirt than the one von wore last season.”

The disappearance of the black taffeta Eton jacket has been prophesied. but the prophet is a false one. and the woman who regretted its doom can dry her tears and have another almost like the one she wore last season. The Eton never saw such a day of popularity as is in store for it this season. But how they are trimmed! Velvet and buckles and lace, and all sorts of insertion and shining and tuckings enter into their adornment, together with white lace collars. In fact, taffeta has a new hold upon popular favour. Of course, every woman knows about taffeta, how it cracks into ribbons before the eyes of the owner.

The colour which 1 predicted would by the law of contrasts follow the reign of half mourning shades was

cerise, and there is no doubt that this shade, even verging into flame, will be much to the fore as soon as the general mourning is over. Such colours. we know, must be treated with care and dfiseretiion. Shouid we be allowed to run riot in the wearing of cerise the result would be worse than the crude pinks and blues of last season.

For evening wear there are some beautiful examples of this same bright shade. An entire frock of cerise tulle sounds crude, but let me tell you in such a garment at least five shades must be blended by a really skilled hand. The skiit of such a gown was goffered round the back and over the hips, almost to the knees, leaving a panel in front of finely accordion pleated tulle. The swathed sash was of crepe de chine, with fringed ends, and this formed the chief part of the bodice, which came right off the shoulders, finished w'ith a

double fichu of sonic exquisite old lace, caught up with an enormous eerise velvet rose.

There is no doubt that once again our evening bodices will be worn off the shoulders, and there is a tendency to make the sleeve tight at the top and full at the elbow, while a good many of the smartest evening cloaks ard carriage wraps are made after the style of the Henri Quatre period, with high Medici collars. I hardly know whether I prefer the large, falling collar of wonderful embitoidery or sable or that of a high, imposing and regal type. Much depends upon the coiffure. Parisians —at any rate those in exclusive circles—are wearing the hair dressed low, and with this style the falling collar is by far the most in keeping, added to which the high ones under these circumstances are de ; stiactive to the coiffure. Ruffles, too, must be regarded from a similar standpoint.

BRETON APRON. A dainty little apron for dainty little people of two, four, six and eight years is the "Estelle." It is cut just tile same front and back, and fastens at back with one or two buttons. A curved strap over each shoulder holds it in place. This design is of dotted lawn with a band of embroidery across the top an! over the shoulder. It ctjn also be made of gingham or cambric.