A Memorable “Hui.”

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue XXV, 22 June 1901, Page 5 (Supplement)

A Memorable “Hui.”

“Haere ra! Hacre ra!” (“Depart, depart”) was the loudly-chanted tarewell with whieh the assembled thousands of the Maori race at Rotorua bade adieu to the Royal visitors on Saturday afternoon. Assuredly the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York must have felt that there was nothing forced or artificial about their reception at the hands of the generous open-hearted native people. Well, it is over now—the greatest “hui” Rotorua ever saw, or ever is likely to see. The Heir-apparent and his gracious consort have seen the Maori in his native “wonderland,” and now that their Royal Highnesses have departed, now that the excitement has subsided and the echo of the last cheer died away, one ean sit down at last in peace and quietness, and review the many memorable incidents of the past few days. For, though but a flying visit, the trip to Rotorua was erammed full of incident, anil the Royal party, in Yankee parlance, “jumped” from place to place with a celerity that gave but little leisure to the small army of special correspondents, who chronicled their movements;

Looking back on the trip to Rotorua, one thing is certain—and that is that the visit of the Duke and Duchess of York was a splendid success. . That they enjoyed themselves most heartily throughout the trip w’as very evident; and, indeed, both the Royal visitors, before leaving Rotorua, were kind enough to express in warmest terms the keen pleasure they experienced in their brief glimpse of the thermal wonderland and the King's loy’al Maori subjects. It is stated that both the Duke and Duchess remarked that they were better pleased with the Rotorua trip than with anything they had gone through during the whole tour, and again, after Saturday’s great demonstration. His Royal Highness thanked the Hon. .Tas. Carroll very warmly for the splendid native reception arranged for them. Much as they had heard of Rotorua and the Maoris, the reality (said His Royal Highness) far excelled all their anticipating. Such expressions of appreciation from the lips of the Royal visitors must have been very gratifying to Mr Carroll and those who worked with and under him, but it required no words to show how keenly’ both the Duke and his consort enjoyed their three days’ outing. One had only to see their smiling faces and hear their hearty laughter to realise that. After all, it must be more enjoyable to spend the whole day under a blue unclouded sky amid surroundings and scenic charms as pleasant and picturesque as novel, than to undergo the round of levees, receptions and other solemn functions with which a more civilised society thinks fit to entertain a visitor of ultra-high degree. It is surely pleasanter to sit in the open air and watch the rhythmic Maori dances —the weird “pernperu,” the graceful “poi” dance—than to struggle—be it never so valiantly—through the dreadful ordeal of shaking some thousand unknown persons by the hand. The comparison seems quite superfluous. The Royal party were fortunate as regards weather while at Rotorua. For ten days before their arrival rain fell more or less continuously, and when the Royal train drew up at Rotorua pintform on Thursday last heavy showers of cold, drizzling rain

swept over the waiting thousands, and converted the fine broad streets into seas of mud. But the next morning broke fine and clear, and thenceforward the weather was absolutely perfect, the eool clear air tempering pleasantly the brilliant sunshine from a cloudless azure sky. Rotorua, with its lovely lake and green-clad hills and island, never looked more beautiful. The reception at the station on the afternoon of their arrival was marred by the wretched weather, but every other part of the programme went oft splendidly. It-WM--.just as well the Royal party did.not ■visit Waiotapu, otherwise they must have missed many novel sights, of Which as it is they carry away the pleasantest recollections. The welcome ceremony at Ohinemutu on Friday was a most interesting native function, and the dances on the racecourse that afternoon enabled the natives to give many dances which time would not have permitted on Saturday. The Geysers at Whakarewarewa could not fail to impress Their Royal Highnesses, and brief as was their glimpse of Tikitere, that weird region of boiling innd pools will leave a vivid recollection in their memories.

But the feature of the visit was undoubtedly the great native assemblage on the racecourse on Saturday. Such dancing, and on such a scale, has not been seen in Maoriland for very many years, nor is it likely that the equal of this great "hui” or Maori inter-tribal carnival will ever be seen again; for “tempora mutantnr, et nos” is as true of the Maori as of the Roman or any other mortal. It was the sight of a lifetime, that great gathering on Rotorua racecourse. Four thousand Maoris, representing all the tribes from the far South to the Bay of Islands, were mustered in battle array, and all in the old-time costumes now fast passing out of use. Only twelve or thirteen hundred of the natives actually danced, but the number was quite large enough to be impressive. It was a grand sight to see the long rows of dusky, half-naked warriors, their bare feet beating time with a measured “thud, thud” that made the ground tremble, brandishing their weapons in perfect unison, as in deep-throated chorus they intoned their poetic chants and invocations. Inspiriting too was the “swing, swing” of the graceful poi dances of the women, as the pairs of little raupo balls struck head and breast and legs in perfect time. Anything that might have been objectionable in the dances had been carefully eliminated; there was practically nothing to which exception could be taken. Dance followed dance in quick succession, and the great demonstration passed off with scarce a hitch from first to last. It was, in short, a memorable spectacle, and those who had the privilege of seeing it are not likely to forget the scene. A striking feature of the demonstration was the ceremony of presenting gifts to the Royal visitors. The Maoris’ generosity was truly remarkable —all the more so, as one aged chieftain remarked, when on considered by way of comparison the extent of the average white man’s prodigality towards his Maori brethren. Costly and rare were most of the presents they laid at the feet of the Duke and Duchess. One appreciated their loyalty and open-handed generositv, but could not help regretting that' so many priceless souvenirs of a romantic past should leave this country —priceless, because mere money could not replace their historic associations. But the tribes vied one with another in lavishing their gifts upon the Royal couple, and laid their dearest treasures in rich profusion at the feet of their distinguished o-uests. Some of the women half stripped themselves to furnish presents for the Duchess. It was impossible to count the gifts on Saturday, or estimate their value on the spot, but it is not beyond the mark to say that the presents given by the Maoris to their future King and Queen that morning represented fully a thousand pounds. The kiwi mats alone must have represented nearly half that sum. The greenstone weapons and ornaments were very valuable, especially the carved adze presented to the Duke by old Major Fox. His Royal Highness evidently appreciated

the value of thia adze, for he carried it around with him all day on Friday, and brought it out himself uex€ morning to the racecourse. He also wore in hit hat several of the valuable huia feathers presented, and throughout the ceremony at the racecourse both Duke and Duchess wore long Maori mats over their ordinary attire. These delicate romphments on the part of Royalty pleased the Maoris immensely, for it showed that Their Royal .Highnesses had a due appreciation of the value of the gifts, and prized them accordingly. It was a fine sight to see the Maori chieftainesses filing out to lay their presents at the Duchess' feet. Almost all were tall, handsome wellbuilt women, and they carried themselves like princesses. The women of the Hawke’s Bay, Wairarapa and Wanganui tribes were particularly handsome, and the high born daughters of the Ngatikahungunu compelled admiration as they walked with! stately carriage to the grandstand, and unfastening their beautiful white! kiwi and other feathered mats laid them at the Duchess’ feet. One old Maori warrior had it enrions method of presenting his offering, a rustling waist mat of coloured flax. Stalking out from among his tribesmen as they stood before the pavilion, the old man marched straight up close to where the Royal couple were seated, and without a vision of a smile flung the mat over the railing on to the stand, then, turning on his heel, stalked solemnly back to his tribe. It is questionable whether the Duke half liked this very casual presentation, though he evidently could not resist a smile. Very different, was the demeanour of a' grizzled veteran who brought a long flat hoeroa (two handed whalebone sword), ornamented with dog’s hair. Reverently the venerable warrior carried his precious weapon to the Duke, and when Bis Royal Highness courteously accepted the gift, the old. man’s tattooed visage wreathed itself in smiles, and he nodded and smiled and nodded again all the way back to his place in the dance.

It was strange after the departure of the Royal couple to notice how quickly the old-time Maori aspect of the camp ground was, so to speak, toned down, if not entirely altered. Prosaic coats and trousers of a cut not exactly irreproachable, hid the broad dusky frames of the dancers; feathers vanished from their hair, and battered hats of many shapes replaced them; spears and axes were put aside ,and the semi-European aspect of the modern native for the most part replaced the picturesque barbarian whom the Royal visitors had watched dancing his wild tungarahu only an hour since. It seems anti-climax to mention the transformation. After all it is very like hauling up the curtain again five minutes afte r the tragic drama has reached its impassioned finale. If the lifted curtain should reveal perhaps the far from picturesque stage hands running off with the carpets and the table, it will not aid the impressiveness of the play itself. In the same way there is no need to dwell on the aftermath of one of the most picturesque functions ever known in Maoriland since the advent of the pakeba. After the hakas, previously described, came more war dances by tribe after tribe. That of the Ngatituwharetoa people, from Lake Taupo, was probably the most realistically savage of any. The solid column of bare backed men shouted in a chorus which might have been heard in the distant hills their war song and saluting chant to the Duke, whom they saluted as the present personification of the dead Queen They leaped in the air this way and that, with indescribably fierce actions, the spears in their grasp now raised high in the air, now lowered in lightning time to the barking chorus of the pernperu, in just such a manner as the cannibals of Taupo might have danced a hundred years ago. Te Heuheu led on his men in a splendid manner. Great applause greeted the exhibition of what these Taupo fierce-eyed men could be in war time.

Next came the turn of the people from Tai Rawhiti or East Coast, including the Ngatiporou and Ngntikahungunu tribes, mustering in all five hundred men, whose physique excited

the greatest admiration as they leaped to their feet and started their war drill. Unlike the others the Ngatiporou tribes wore white singlets. with blue shoulder sashes and black waist cloths. At their head was the chief Tutu Nihoniho, who fought under Major Bopata. He led his men with wild gestures, waring his sword. They gave two war dances, also several hakas, in a style which drew forth thunders of applause. Their war song action showing how they would punish the Boers by thrusting them to earth was explained to the Duke, who was greatly pleased with the military precision of the warliors, their simultaneous thrusting, brandishing and shaking of their spear-, and the regular stamping of five hundred naked feet. Ancient war songs, also compositions in honour of the Duke, were chanted with tremendous effect.

The turn of the Ngatikahungunu dancers. 220 men from Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa, came next- They looked a splendid lot of big made men. During their war dances they flourished taiahas. under a tall old chief named Ihaia Hut.ana, costumed in purely Maori style. Their song beginning “Loudly roars the eastern sea, 'tis the Duke nearing land,” was typically effective. The chant of the Ngatikahungunu wound up with the great war song, commencing “Ka mate, ka ora.”

The presentation to the Duke by the Arawa chiefs followed. Headed by Major Fox they carried their model war canoe and laid it down in front of the Duke. Major Fox made a speech. Capt. Mair interpreting, as follows:— “Welcome! Welcome! Welcome. Come hither from your illustrious father and bring your departed grandmother’s love to us, her grandchildren. I will present you with a model of the canoe in which onr ancestors came hither over the setts from distant Hawaiiki. It. is called Te Arawa. I heg of vou to place it in your ancestral halls.” Beautiful greenstone weapons, etc., were placed in the canoe as gifts to the Duke, then tbe whole of the Arawas in a great shout, led by the Major.’ sang their formal song of welcome, which they gave the Duke at Ohiuemutv yesterday.

Then followed a series of splendid poi dances by select parties of Maori women. First came the Arawa women. numbering fifty. Led by Kiri Matao, they gave the finest exhibition of poi swinging the Arawas have ever performed.

Then came on the scene thirty-four women aud girls of the Ngatirauka .va tribe, from Otaki. with four little girls iu front. This party danced a very pretty poi, and sang the plaintive song with charming effect. Their swinging of the raupo pois, with the accompanying of the swaying dunce, was graceful in the extreme Their double poi was especially pretty, and they were loudly applauded as they concluded. After again singing their song and making a deep obeisance to Royalty, they laid their poi balls at the Duchess’ feet, and then marched off the scene.

Now came more presents, literally piled at the Duke’s feet. Old tattooed wariors, ex - Huuhaus, vied with girls in laj ing their choicest greenstones, feather mats, flax mantles, and huia plumes at the feet of Royalty. Some beautiful kiwi mats were presented. Their Highnesses were not slow to show their pleasure at the spontaneous and generous offerings of the native race. After the last dance the natives formed in hollow square and sang the welcome chant, "Bring hither the canoe,” as the Royal visitors, accompanied by the Hon. Jas. Carroll, walked round inspecting the ranks. Finally the Duke took his stand behind a table, and presented cotnmem-t-rat ion medals to 36 chiefs and leading women, including Mrs Donnelly, Wiki, and Toni Kemp, three Maori M.H fl.’s. Hone Hclce, Partita, and Wi Fere, also to Hokomo, N ere aha Tubski, Tiunahao, Mahupuku, and last, but not leant, Uie aged Pokiha. who was loudly cheered when the Duke pinned the medal on his breast. After the ceremony, the Duke, through Mr Carroll, expressed his gratitude for the grand reception, stating that the Duchess and himself had greatly enjoyed the dances. He promised to mention to the King how Itoysl the Maoris were, and ended.

“We pray for peace and the blessing of God upon you ”

The Royal party then left for Rotorua, amid loud cheering, the natives chanting “Ka Mate’’ choruses as their Highnesses left the grounds. The Royal party drove direct to the station, and left for Auckland at 12.30 sharp, receiving an enthusiastic sendoff.

The war-dance, or peruperu. given by the Ngatituwharvtoa tribe of Lake Taupo on Saturday was one of the finest features of the exhibition of tribal war donees. Their savage entry into the great square, or marae, pursuing their chiefly “tangatawero.” or spear-thrower. was a highly exciting spectacle, and as they halted in a comjiact company, or “matin." 120 strong, in ranks six warriors deep. their axe-shaped feather-plumed tewhatewha.s raised high in the air. they looked a really formidable war-parry. Then at the word from Te Heuheu. their fierveyed young chief, who bounded lightly along the front ranks, the long narrow company in liattle array sprang into ferocious attitudes, anil leaped this way and that, thrusting their weapons now one side, now the other, and with fierce grimaces and wild glaring eyes they roared out an ancient war-song, or “puha.” This chant is one common to all the Arawa tribes, as well as the Taupo people. Tt begins “Vhi mai te waeroa.” likening the oncoming hordes of the enemy to a swarm of mosquitoes. As this song ended the half-naked ranks, their painted faces turned on one side, with their weapons fiercely brandished, eame down on the earth with a tremendous thud that made the earth shake. Then they performed another war-dance in the same thrilling manner, singing in unison to their threatening gestures, their wonderfully precise drill and their violent leaps and turns, this specially composed chant.: Oh, go ye to Rotorua! Why carry ye your burdens? Your loads for the journey? A-ha-ha! Oh stricken are we bv the cold! A-ha! What is there on the desert of Rangipo? Oh. 'tis snow, 'tis snow! What is that lying there? Tis the biting frost. What is it ails your limbs? Tis the shivering.,the shaking, from the freezing cold! A-ha! This song was an appropriate enough one for these Taupo people, many of whom live in sight of the great snowv mountains Tongariro and Ruapehu, and w-hose villages extend as far south as the cold inhospitable plateaux around the base of Ruapehu and the bare Murimotu plains. The combined war dance by the whole of the people (designating themselves for this occasion “Mataatun,” tbe name of the . ancestral canoe which landed at Whakatane six hundred years ago) was an excellent one, performed to the stirring battle song beginning “Kia kntia—au—an,” in which chorus is yelled by warriors something like the simultaneous barking of so many dogs, and another chant. This party consisted of over 200 men of Tauranga and Whakatane natives and the ITrewera tribe, also the Ngatiawa. of Te Teko. Matata, and elsewhere. Their second song, a welcome to the Duke, combined with a seasonable reference- to the. Doer war. was Ngaiterangi’s specialty. It may be translated thus:

Who. who is the man Hastening hitherto across the great seas? 'Tis the Duke of York! Ab! Shattered is the high citadel of

Africa By the English! Ha! for the chasing, the smiting Of the Roer to the muuntaius of Death!

In the Ngatiporou war song concerning the Boers, and ending with tbe old chant, “Kia Kutia.” etc., there was a most startling effect when, after the second “au —au!" tbe whole column instantaneously developed an apparent fury of excitement, and leaped into the air as one man at the first of the words—•

“Kia re re aiu te Kohuru Ki tua o Awherika, Titiro mai ail**

(“Let tbe murderer flee away to the farthest bounds of Africa, And turn and gar.e at me!”) Their thicket of black spears were thrust high in the air as they leaped at the words “Kia rere," and their wild eyes rolled and their whole liodies quivered with the excitement of this savage song for a flying enemy, as they yelled with furious energy the modern adaptation of an immeasurably ancient “ngeri ” One of tbe most effective smigs given by the tribes was that of the Ngatikahungunu and Ngaitiporou, who alternated their dauces, both classing themselves as tribes of the Tai Rawhiti (“Coast of the Rising Sun’ ). They sang a welcome song, which commenced in this poetic way: ’’The tide of the Eastern sea is rumbling hitherwards; Ah! 'tis the Duke,coming from afar!”

The hakas of these two tribes were probably the best of all, but the effect was marred to some extent by The European touch which their dapper white singlets lent to the Maori costume. The singlets were an anachronism. The opening movement, of the Ngatiporou’s dance, in which the spears are clasped horizontally in one long line, then raised above the head, is an innovation suggested by the military physical drill with the rifle. It was a most effective movement, and was carried through with splendid precision. One of the most singular effects was created by the Ngatiporou when, after emitting their last guttural ejaculation in the haka, they with one accord dropped to the ground. j

The poi dances by the women were another special feature. The prettiest dance of all was probably that, given by the party of Ngatiraukawa women from Otaki. The fifty Arawa women, drawn up in two long lines, also looked very well in their white blouses and blue sashes, set off with rustling flax piu-piu. The Arawa women sported an orchestra, oue “bloke” scraping away at a fiddle, and another hauling vigorously at an accordion. The Arawas were splendidly led by old Kiwi Matae, the “Duchess” of Ohinemutu, who, as a young girl, met the Duke of Edinburgh during his visit- to Rotorua 30 years ago. This dance especially seemed to please the Duke on Saturday.

The lament for the dead Queen was another picturesque incident in Saturday's proceedings. The dancing eeased for a time, and ail the companies of dancers massed in front of the pavilion, crouched down in mournful attitude, with t.heir heads to the ground, and sang in sorrowful tones their “Tangi-Apakura.”