THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue XXIV, 15 June 1901, Page 1144

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

There is no doubt that unless one is possessed of a earriage it is impossible to wear light clothes in winter, for the pale-toned cloths and pretty embroideries run enough risk getting in and out of a earriage, but to walk down a muddy street in such toilettes is outre in style as well as expensive to the pocket. Yet fashion at its best, for afternoon toilettes, is showing these beautiful appliques, laces ami embroideries on exquisitely

pale-shaded cloths and silks. Flowers and furs are mixed happily together on the best hats, sometimes mingled with tulle and lace. Perfectly entrancing are the new designs in rough cream serge coats ami skirts, with big collars of sable: toques of the same serge, with sable brims, are decorated with a bunch of violets or roses. These walking skirts are being cut all round, ami to just dear the ground, with a few pleats on the hips and rows of strappings at the hem. There is generally a gold buckle on these toques. In fad. the craze for gold, as far as

millinery is concerned, does not seem to abate as quickly as was thought; but then. Parisians are so clever when they wish to prolong a mode, and the delightful way they are mixing gold embroideries on the sable and sealskin boleros certainly does much to reinstate gold in favour. Beautiful little boleros for the early spring are being made in black panne, and show a wide waistband of gold embroidery.

1 told you that chenille would still be used, and now it is being utilised as an embroidery, decorated with all kinds of precious stones and gold. Ermine is only being used for evening wraps, and as a trimming on other fur garments: white caracul

has taken its place for day wear: but this quickly assumes a grey shade, which is not universally becoming. There is no doubt that the richer looking furs, such as sable, mink and sealskin, are more suited to our climate. But much depends upon how furs are worn: and one should be as careful in the selection of the

same as in the choice of jewels, and if expense be no object it is easy enough to get some very beautiful examples. But at the same time lovely furs in themselves may not suit everybody. I think we may safely say that sable and sealskin are universally becoming. whereas chinchilla is the reverse. Only those women who, with orilliant complexions, have the art of always looking smart, should attempt tile wearing of chinchilla. Its peculiar, dull, stone-grey hue is certainly trying; so bear in mind that, to wear chinchilla you must either be possessed of a good colour or else resort to art to supply it. I have seen a reallv good-looking woman, who is

quite colourless, wearing a beautiful eliinehilla cape, in which she looks absolutely plain. This, perhaps, is because she fastens her cape close up to her neck, without even the relief of some lace or the almost inevitable white tulle bow.

There is something very smart about black broadtail or caracul. By

the latter I do not mean that coarse stuff which will abound at sale-time, but the real baby lamb, which when manipulated by expert hands is certainly the best fur for tight-fitting garments. Furriers should be congratulated upon the way in which they have fashioned sable and mink into fur coatees. I think that a Suck’s-egg-blue cloth skirt, with a lace blouse, showing some blue shadings to correspond, worn under a pouched coatee of sable, with the new bell sleeves and a good deal of lace near the face, surmounted by a black picture hat. fronts one of the most ideal toilettes for the fashionable woman.

Now to tell you of a beautiful example of a grey bolero in broadtail—the very darkest grey—which was worn over a severely plain skirt of panne of the same shade. The front showed a waistband of the latter material deeorated with tiny goldbraided buttons, and a chemisette of black ami white chiffon, crossed with gold and silver braid. The inner

sleeves which appeared from under ♦he bell-shaped fur ones were of the goffered chiffon, in a tiny band of black panne at the wrists, adorned with the gold buttons. To give a ridiculous touch of summer to this cosy winter costume was a large toque, composed of four or five shades of blue tulle and some wonderful lace, with a gold-wrought dagger, stuck in at the side. I need hardly say that this toilette emanated from the Rue de la Paix. though it was to be worn by an Englishwoman who really knows how to put her clothes on.

Here is a gown which can be worn at a fancy dress ball, but which will also make a. lovely dinner frock for ordinary occasions. It is cut en princesse. and would look lovely in cream panne velvet or ivory satin Oriental. The lower part of the skirt is a mass of frou-frouing flounces, not of chiffon. which is such terribly extravagant wear when sweeping the ground, but of an equally beautiful, though more enduring fabric. The butterflies which adorn this confection are of gold tissue, connected by threads of the same; the head dress is also a. golden butterfly. The decolletage is softened with hand-painted or embroidered chiffon, with a long end of the same hanging down on to the skirt.

In Paris there is a decided tendency to introduce the low coiffure, especially for young folks, who are wearing it loose at the side; hut there a.re many sensible people who will not give up the present mode of dressing their hair on the top of their head. which is, after all. more universally becoming. No matter what fashion demands, it is unwise to experiment on one’s coiffure, for individuality of style is essentially connected with the way in which we do our hair.