THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue II, 12 January 1901, Page 92

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGURITE

I wonder whether the twentieth century, upon which we have just entered, will be as prolific of change in fashions as was that we have left l>ehind. At such an occasion as this (the only opportunity of a life-time), a review of the general features of the fashions of the century now gone by may not be uninteresting. The woman of a hundred years ago glided forth in wonderful draperies relegated to Greek nymphs. The year 1800 was, in fact, the hey-day of a great classical revival. Paris was the fashion throne of that time even more than it is now. for Napoleon’s wife. Mme. Bonaparte, was a woman who adored frocks, when tunics, peplums, and splendid draperies in general were worn. Ten years later, from purely classical ideas, fickle fashion had a little wavered. Whereas skirts had been long and trailing and really very graceful, they were now shortened: but the waist remained just where it was. beneath the arms. This was a

mode that cannot have been so delightful to the eye as were the clinging robes of 1800, robes that were made to drape all the more artistically by being composed of the thinnest materials. and by these materials being sprinkled with exquisitely scented waters, the more completely to ensure their softness and pliability. THE PROGRESS OF FASHION, is a difficult one to understand, and for this reason let the feminine mind refuse the task. Doubtless in 1820 what pleased the masculine beholders of the pretty girls who put on their first season frocks was the lace fichu, the precursor of the lace shawl and of shawls in general, •lust lately a certain writer has been condemning the stick back coat, and declaring that in his eyes it is an ugly fashion that girls have taken upon themselves to exploit. But no one could dislike the shawl. Weave aware now how gracefully it defines the shoulder lines and flows in pretty folds

that beautify the figure instead of making it aw’kward. In 1830 a decadence of fashion had liegun. and really the debutante must have been a sight to behold, at any rate according to our ideas at present of a beauteous one. She tripped forth (it was the days of mincing steps) in a short silk dress that would stand by itself, trimmed with a very stiff flounce, fringed-edged, and made with huge lialloon sleeves. Perhaps they were pretty in those days, as so many of us thought them again years and years afterwards, but pictures of them are not alluring. A girl’s crown of glory, her dainty tresses, were tortured into most careful basket plaits, very tightly twisted up. and then the head was decorated with festoons of pearls and stiff bouquets of flowers. Of course, this headgear would lie for evening festivities. For day time wear a huge bonnet was donned with a coalscuttle front and erratic trimmings sprouting forth

here and there. \\ ith what disdain the young woman of 1840 must have regarded her elder sister of 1830. The young woman of the latter date was romantic. Hoops were coming in. and silks that stood by themselves were in higher favour than ever. The bodices of dresses were rather like many of those we wear now. for the shoulder seams were perfectly flat, though below that the sleeves bulged out. to be caught in again at the wrist into a simple little cuff. This, with a coal-scuttle bonnet, and the hair neatly parted Madonna-wise, and arranged in soft bands over the ears, must have been a demure and essentiallv feminine looking toilette. Time passed on,and the crinoline had its day. and a right merry one it must have been, for in 1850 we find it still. Neither had the fashions changed very materially with regard to the bodice worn. The hair, too, was as strictly neat as ever, though indeed it was a little waved instead of being worn per-

fectly flat, and here and there sidecurls were introduced drooping over the ears, somewhat like a lap-dog’s hair, but evidently most becoming. It was not a day for a great deal of violent exercise, so in all likelihood a saunter in the park was the extremity of outing girls of that period asked f °Still, in the sixties flourished the crinoline, gaining unto itself the absurdity of exaggeration that invariably precedes a fall. In 1870 it had most considerably declined from its high pinnacle of popularity, and in its stead arrived the tunic very much puffed up at the back and worn over a kilted pettieoat. Bonnets were so excessively tiny that they could scarcely lie perceived, and the golden hair of those who possessed such a treasure was worn down the back in curls or a loose plait caught up at one side. The year 1880 brings the debutante I of the present day to the early hours of her childhood. She may not remem her. though her mother will be able to tell her. that in the spring of that vear intensely long trains were brought into vogue. They had been coming for some years before, but at this time grew- almost depressingly long, twining over the floors, and. like most long skirts, hampering their wearers' progress in the street. Ten years ago most of us who are interested in dress can well remember. There were some very pretty fashions ; then, many of which might lie taken as models for the present time. The [skirt was comfortably loose and yet without any exaggeration. Draperies were arranged with excessive grace, and the little bonnets worn at that time were very becoming. The hair was dressed just as the Princess of Wales still dresses hers, and long suede gloves were a la mode. The hiatus of time between then and now was filled up with the eccentric balloon sleeve, to which so many references have been made, a fashion that will assert itself from time to time as the cycle of models whirls round. •lust as the fashions of each decade have owned their several points of beauty will the ones of the season of 1901 own theirs. The girl who is coming out now is a pretty sight, full of energy, grace, and beauty. ® ® ® TWO PRETTY GOWNS FOR COUNTRY WEAR. The boa is likely to remain a lifelong friend. It is charming in almost every form, but perhaps particularly so composed of the new large mesh net. wide in width and of good wearing qualities. A necklet

of this description with a hat to match appears in the picture devoted to two pretty gowns for country wear. J ® ®