THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXV, Issue XXVI, 29 December 1900, Page 1235

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

I think almost everyone contrives somehow or other to shake off the 1 toils and cares of business or the burden of housekeeping, and leaving home goes forth on pleasure bent to seek during this most pleasant season of 1 the year for that benefit to mind and body which, with hardly an exception, l is sure to be derived from a change of air and scene. Nowadays there are a hundred and one ways in which the desired benefit is attained, from the' continuous change and healthy exercise of a cycling tour to the delicious idleness of sunny days passed away in some shady rose-embowered garden, l or by the “sad sea waves.” So,, to return to our starting point, everyone’s 1 thoughts are turning longingly towards a mne for fresh surroundings, and change of scene and society, sea breezes to put fresh nerve and tone i into us, and peaceful pastures new, where we may for x space forget the' lack of peaee in the world around, i In any departure of the kind, the feminine mind becomes active as to frocks and furbelows, and a few prac-

tical suggestions built on many modes and models we have recently seen may prove useful to our readers, discarding the extravagant elements and dealing with matter for moderate means. It is likely enough that the smartest travelling hat when people wing their way upon their holidays will be one of Amazon-shape in rather a . bright-coloured tan felt or straw, such as was seen in the spring. A A drapery of taffetas is wound round the crown, and a millinery bird, out of politeness called a seagull, with outspread wings, is placed at the side, but not precisely where the taffetas edged with the finest possible silk fringe is buckled with gun metal. In the newest tailor-made gowns the newest trifle that but faintly suggests masculinity is frowned upon. No more does the stiff collar appear in company with the man-made ecstume, nor is the shirt, with its well-starched front correct, though, by the way, 1 may whisper that for sports such as lawn tennis and croquet the stiffened

shirt is in vogue in Baris, possibly because it is supposed to be truly English. The next newest thing is the shape of string-coloured crepe or chiffon, "drawn” as to the crown, and the brim formed by a couple of pleats or frills of the same, one about an inch above the other. The trimming of these smart models consists of a scarf of white chiffon, or mousseline, terminating in an immense how at the left side. ® ® ® THE HOLIDAY OUTFIT. HINTS CONCERNING THE LATEST NOVELTIES. An enterprising dressmaker, seeing how smart, if somewhat exclusively so, handkerchief blouses have been for some time past, has been doing a good turn to her customers by giving them handkerchief revers and cravats. They are made of bandana, in the various pretty colours now associated

with that once exclusively snuff brown and green combination, hemstitched in some cases, and in others with drawn thread edges. Bandana toques she has also constructed, to match the ties, of course. Many girls are aware of the liecoming qualities of a toque and tie that match by this time, and have discovered that thev draw attention to the pretty face that goes between them.

The newest sleeve is not a cool one. I do not refer to the three-quarter model at present. There is a still later edition. The sleeve is put in at the armhole with graceful looseness, wherein lurks many an element of coolness, but from the elbow to the wrist it is as tight as tight can be. and if you try to compress your wrists in hot weather you will fiml that the whole of your anatomy will suffer in consequence. So take the loose tipper sleeve and the bt-ll sleeve under it, or cut off your sleeve at the elbow and wear comfortably long gloves, should you suffer from the heat. At the seaside we have usually a

vhaurt* of using parasola, but they in list not Im* the beru filed flimsy of last season. The new plain or moire silk sunshades which are mo beautiful when painted by band are the one* to choose. The linen parasol is certain to lie seen at the watering places, anti not only is it the bright red that we have known in whhoiik gone by. that will be desirable, but to accompany each toilette with which it is destined to play a part, sunshades are built of the material of which each is composed. What with rufiles, excessively pretty boleros, and the fanciful sleeves now worn, any extra wrap like a cape is a total impossibility, and. indeed, is not required at all at present. Gloves seem to Im* going the way of these things, and will depart with much rapidity if a certain under-sleeve, called the mitten, comes into fashion. We have long known ami loved it on our evening frocks, and have learnt to disIlense with our gloves for theatre entertainments, and to show our best finger rings instead of covering them. The mitten sleeve is made of lace, and ends about the knuckles of the hands in a long point or a bell-shaped effect. It is a |M>rtion of the sleeve that should command immediate attention, especially now that the weather is hot. The upper sleeve is either slashed up or arranged with a cuff just below the elbow, the lace mitten appearing beneath it. Any amount of ingenuity can be ex|M*nded on the sleeves of to-day. Perhaps to many girls the soft muslin inner bishop sleeve will appeal eloquently. twice belted with ribbon velvet. and finished with a cameo button. or something pretty and artistic in steel, enamel or gold. In clear contrast to the much-be-rufiied throat is the one deprived of any collar whatsoever. The newest vests have no neckband, but they are worn as often as not with a boa just allowed to fall over the shoulders, so that the throat beneath the chin is teft uncovered. © © © Crepe-de-chine constitutes one of the most ideal fabrics for the evolution of a summer blouse. A dainty sample is here illustrated, carried out in lily-of-the-valley green stitched with white, and showing a chemisette of drawn net finishing in a bro .d band of the same semi-transparent material tied in a coquettish bow at the side. These bows give such a finish to one’s appearance that it is impossible to ignore their charms. The most delightful effects are obtained for summer gowns by tuckings of muslin or fine headings and ribbon threadings, while applications of cloth flowers on lace - or chiffon foundations are not considered too outre for the taste of Madame. La Mode. There are also India muslin gowns of exquisite fineness, intermingled with trimmings qjnd insertions of Maltese or Irish lace, while nothing looks so truly elegant as French pique of the finest and softest texture, with insertions

of cmuwe 'thread 'herring-boning, hope all reasonably-minded wom< are devoting a due mid proper attu tion to their corsets, and if they tir my advice they will select those',, hue silken batiste, striped or wair or adorned with floral embroider

A most serviceable costume will be found in my illustration, made of that most useful of materials, striped flannel. In this instance the stripe is a narrow pin line of black, a wide sailor collar of black satin bordered with white lace gracing the bodice and finishing, in a loosely knotted cerise silk tie, the same note of colour being repeated in the folded neckband. Almost any hat could lie worn with such a costume, but a capeline of black accordion-pleated muslin or a large white stitched linen hat would accord best. The newest skirts still show an increase of fulness at the Itack. either arranged in box

pleats or drawings, though recently I saw a very smart white serge toilette in which the skirt showed little or no fulness at the waist, but half-way-spread out in graduated folds till a desired fulness was attained. ® ® © A charming frock is displayed in the sketch, the material employed being soft green cashmere with a front of tucked white silk finished at the throat by a band of jewelled trimming. while broad strappings of black velvet finish the front. Round the waist is loosely knotted a. sash of painted black chiffon, but as this latter is a very perishable item and soon becomes limp, soft black chine silk sprinkled with little bunches of roses and leaves in their natural colours might be substituted. Cashmere is still a much worn and highly appreciated fabric, and will remain in favour all the season. Tt is so exceed-

ingly accommodating in the way 01 falling into elegant folds, and while o. fashion our gowns be j. , vi' >l — a,, d tuckings nef z - rable increase in { ■ttJ' a skirt x'-l S ■.,'/< ward gar-

, > Bm “ r h COBt ' “ e will be found depleted here, the nea' little coat has . ng a square collar eove>-d with Clunv lace. A novelty will be oi r . Hd , way the side darts are give a glimpse of the blouse beneatu, tiny stitched strappings deeorated with fancy buttons keeping the coat in its place. I'here is nothing verv remarkable about the skirt except the excellence of tit. as pleated or elaborately tucked cloth skirts do not prove a sourer of comfort to their owner when holiday-making. With this gown any sort of blouse or hat could be worn, from a straw sailor hat and cot-

ton shirt to the elaborate specimen of tine spotted muslin lace and silk, of which a glimpse can be obtained in the illustration. It is accompanied by a fashionable Leghorn hat, the brim bound with black velvet, and a large knot of blue chiffon arranged in front, while the high crown has trails of variegated ivy embracing it. With a smart tailor-made costume such as this, and an old one as a stand-by. much is accomplished towards the foundation of a properly stocked wardrobe, as ti e skirt can be worn without the eoat. smart blouses being substituted.

I his hat is of string coloured drawn chiffon trimmed with hops. This particular hat is suitable for the promenade, and, besides being very light in weight, is shady, and the effect of the dark string-colour and white is most effective and smart. Another hat just shown us was much the same shape, but in Tuscan straw, 'which is also wonderfully light, and trimmed with a folded band of emerald green velvet, and huge posy of the hops and leaves.- —