AS SEEN THROUGH ROMAN'S EYES.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXV, Issue XXIV, 15 December 1900, Page 1137

AS SEEN THROUGH ROMAN'S EYES.

The Flour Shampoo. Isn’t it a pity that women persist in ruining' their hair by too much soap and water? One of the most successful coiffeurs refuses to shampoo with it oftener than twice a year unless the hair is unusually oily. For other shampoos, given once a month, flour is used. The flour bath takes time, but is an effective shampoo. The powder is sifted into the hair in handfuls. Then the locks are divided into sections and brushed with a soft brush until every particle of white dust has been removed. Three or four applications of flour should be used at each shampoo, the colour and consistency of the refuse proving that an amazing amount of dust is removed from the hair and scalp with each application. Twice a year the hair shonld be singed at the season when trees and hedges are cut back. After the soap and water shampoo only the purest Castile soap should be used on the hair—brilliantine should be applied, and then there will be no trace of the stiffness and dryness usually so noticeable after this shampoo. The hair should be brushed every night with fine, flexible brushes, and the brushes should be cleaned twice or thr. e times a week with flour or ammonia and water. If the hair is turning grey or falling out, masage is the best remedy, and by massage is not meant a rubbing of the scalp, which will ruin the finest head of hair, but a rotary movement of the scalp. To massage pro perly, a finger is firmly pressed against the head, and the loose scalp under it pushed with a rotary motion. The fingers are moved from point to |K>int, but are never permitted to slide over or rub the scalp. These new methods are abundantly successful, but some women, in spite of expert advice, persist in clinging to

old and dangerous ways, and then they wonder why the hair becomes thin or unlovely. Much harm is often done by the use of noxious kinds of soap—a misguided passion far cleanliness obscuring the fact that cleanliness should not mean the destruction of beauty, but its preservation or enhancement. The Art of Singing. It is not sufficient to proclaim “I will be a singer.” An attractive appearance, the gift of the musician, quickness of conception, and the power of representation, together with requisites of relatively minor importance, a good ear, a sound and rich voice of extended compass, added to an ardent desire to become an artist—sueh is the essential equipment of those who would travel the fair, if thorny, road that stretches out before them. From the very inception of one’s studies, vanity, false ambition and greed must be set aside, and divine art :only must inspire the pupil with zeal, compel industry and illumine the distant goal. If good results are attained, distinction, honours and substantial reward will not be lacking. How, now, shall the education of a child be conducted who from infancy has revealed the possession of an acute ear, a vivacious temperament and valuable gifts—a sweet voice and one true of pitch; of a child who from morn to eve sings with faultless intonation the melodies it overhears and prefers sitting at the piano and fingering the scales to busying itself with dolls’? With due consideration for the bodily health of this gifted little creatnre, its parents,after it has learned the alphabet and is between seven and eight years of age, may give it piano instruction, without, however,

constraining it to constant practice. I blame parents who, through pride over their children’s accomplishments, summon them from play to sing an air for the entertainment of an aunt or cousin or to play for them the piano piece they have just mastered. How often has sueh embittered children toward their studies. Now—always with regard for their physique—solfeggio —do, re, mi) can be commenced, but, with the greatest caution; only a compass of ten tones (from C to E) should be allowed.—Harper's Bazaar. Character Read in the Mouth. Every artist knows that the mouth has a marvellous capacity for expiession. The mouth in repose will unfa lingly give the keynote of a woman’s character if the subject be past the f amative stage. In youth it will as Infallibly point to the tendencies of its possessor. Small mouths, according to physiognomists, do not indicate strong characters or heroic attributes. On the other hand, large mouths aie not of necessity significant of strength of character, though it will be found that few great men and women have tiny mouths. Indeed, I can not recall one case when a truly noble character has been the victim of a 10 ebud mouth. Large mouths must be well closed to express force. A continuously open mouth will express surptise, deafness, stupidity or indecision. The picture illustrating the varied characteristics shown in an every-day group of strong mouths are interesting to character readers, who agree that the mouth is the ruler of the face and tells its story without prejudice,

and a truthful story always. For example, the mouth in illustration No. 1 is typical in secret ivenesa. The tightly closed lips at once con-

vey the impression of the governing trait. No one can look at this strong mouth without a sensation of confidence in the possessor’s strength of will. A character student would instantly recognise the type as that of the woman who knows how to keep a secret. No. 2 shows another strong mouth opposed in form to No. 1. Here the lips are full, the upper a trifle short,

but well proportioned and mobile, and the insinuating little upward curve that of the woman who wants to please, and is eager to use her best efforts to win the fame she has set her heart upon. A woman with this mouth may safely be set down as verv ambitious. No. 3 typifies the splendid trait of fidelity. The upper lip has just the shadow of a droop at either side of the

centre, which is significant of a tremendous capacity for devoti n. The gentle firmness of this mouth tills its own story of unswerving loyaltv. No. 4 shows the mouth called ‘‘the enthusiastic type.” If you go into a crowded hall where a religious exhor-

ter or the leader of any one of the great causes is whipping up his audience to excitement you will see this mouth. Illustration No. 5 shows a strong, self-reliant mouth, significant also of great self-esteem. A woman with

this mouth will get on in life, while her sisters with timid, shrinking features will starve. Thick lips, with the under one projecting, announce more

or less material attributes, and this mouth also is the symbol of the ready talker. Women with this m uth are self-opinionated; but they carry conviction. and largely because they have such faith in themselves, they are successful in whatever they und riake. Shall all Children Learn Music. The idea seems generally to prevail that music is an accomplishment that is to be acquired only by a special course of study and by certain methods that are not. as a rule, employed in teaching other branches of education. It would seem to go without saying that a child should learn music as it learns its A, B. C's. If a child can read, it ought to know the letters on the scale and the keyboard of an instrument. There is no reason why a child should not read music as readily as it reads print. Music should never be an accomplishment. and should never be taught as such. It should be as much a part of the regular training of every youngster as reading and spelling. No matter how long people live, they are never out of the range of music and its possibilities. Every church service, every entertainment, even Nature herself, is full of music; and those who are taught from childhood to comprehend and assist in creating this most delightful accompaniment to every-day life have very much to be thankful for. When a child can read its primer, it should be thoroughly drilled in the elements of music and as it advances should study this branch in common with others. If this were the case, we would hear a great deal of very much better music than we are now treated to. and those who hear it would be much better able to appreciate it. In addition to this, there is nothing so comforting to persons of fine temperament as the harmony of good music and no greater delight in leisure hours or times when one is somewhat under the weather than to be able intelligently to appreciate or render the fine vfbrks of classic and more ordinary composers. As almost every house in the land has a musical instrument of some sort, it seems strange that every schoolhouse has not its musical chart and its simple and comprehensive course of musical study. The child who learns music with the elementary branches is so ingrained with it that it is never forgotten. Music is always elevating in its tendencies and puts people in better humour under almost all circumstances. It is a solace to the weary, it breaks the strain of care, puts the whole being in better condition and is often quite as valuable to distracted spirits as a doctor's medicine. How to Iron Out Wrinkles. To be as lovely as possible ought to be one. of the aims of every woman, and so long as she does not make this one aim the great object of her life, there is no harm in a desire to be beautiful. Some women have an advantage over others by being born pretty; but the roses in one’s cheeks will fade like any other flowers unless thev are daily feel and nourished.

Crow’s-feet anti wrinkles, perhaps, disfigure a face quicker than anything else. When the age-linen begin to ap|>ear extra care must be given to the face. If the tissues are wasted they should be built up. The relaxed muscles must be given strength. If cheeks aie hollow they should be made plump again. When the pores grow starved for proper food it is a woman’s duty to find what tonic is needed, and to use it. The coming of wrinkles is ever dreaded, although many persons are heard to say, “Oh, I don't mind them —they are ‘character lines.’” True: but the face is small, and if one has very much ‘’character,” by and by there will be nothing but lines to look at. Now. supposing one has been careless. and scowled for years over books or work;the forehead has become full of ugly long wrinkles, and even crow’s feet are plainly visible in the corners of the eyes. Unlovely traits of character (as well as lovely ones) leave their marks on the faee. and they are never becoming ones—not the lines one wishes left there. If possible, time should be given every morning to the following treatment: Soften, cleanse, and relax the muscles by washing with a- soft cloth or sponge in warm water. Rub up and back, never down. The lines of the face naturally tend downward, and to take a rough towel and wipe the face by rubbing downwards will not only accentuate all wrinkles, but will soon result in leaving the muscles so relaxed that little bags of flesh will hang down on each side of the chin. The cheeks will be hollow and sunken in consequence. After wiping upwards massage the faee by gently pinching and squeezing it. always using the upward motion, never dragging a musele downwards. All this time the fingers are anointed with the proper tonic or skin food that is gradually being rubbed into the pores. These pores absorb like little mouths, and they should be kept filled

with the proper food Instead of with dust and dirt. With eare flabby eheeks can be made firm and round by this constant feeding of the pores and rubbing upwards. Note how lines above the eyes run, then rub them out. Many of them are superficial, and when scurf-skin is removed the wrinkles will be no more. Any tonic that will build up a loose skin will kill wrinkles, for, as a general thing, they are only the result of flabbiness. The fatty substances have l»een destroyed, perhaps, by face washes. Many of these preparations close the pores and deaden the face until it looks like a yellow paper mask. Just as soon as the skin shows signs of age mix thirty-six drops of turpentine with three drachms of water, and apply the lotion at night. For some this operation works beautifully; for others it does not. A generally successful mixture, however, is one drachm of alum and one ounce of glycerine in a pint of water. Again, some women cannot use glycerine in any form. In that case the following cream may be tried: One ounce of lanoline. One ounce of white wax. One ounce of spermaceti. One ounce of olive-oil. Quarter of an ounce e camphor gum. The camphor gum should be dissolved in the oil; add everything else warm, until the mass is melted, then beat until cold. Use the cream on retiring. The lanoline restores the fatty substance to the empty tissues, and helps to make the skin firm and healthy. A mixture of tannin, one ounce; rose water, five ounces: glycerine, two ounces, applied with a camel’s-hair brush, is said to be wonderful in its effect- in removing the age lines. Another excellent lotion to use is one ounce of simple tincture, of benzoin in one pint of pure alcohol. Then add a tablespoonful of this to one half

pint of rose water to bathe the face with. After using hot water for the face, always use cold before drying it. This will keep the skin in perfect health. And it must not be forgotten that late hours and hot rooms absorb the life of the skin, and should, if possible, always be avoided. o o o c o The Habit of Teasing. There are few habits which should be more carefully looked after among youngsters than that of teasing and worrying either playmates or the elder members of the family’. At the outset and in its mildest form, it may be to a certain extent entertaining and amusing in the little one, but after a time it grows almost intolerable, and if allowed to strengthen with the growth of the child, it develops into a

habit than which nothing is more annoying and exasperating. There are persons in good society who are simply tolerated because there seems no legitimate way in which to get rid of them. They are the terror of their entire acquaintance, for one never knows what they are to do next. An accident, a misfortune, a trifling indiscretion or some uncomfortable event or other furnishes them a pretext, and there is no living with them once they get started. The most private and confidential affairs are not safe with them, once their propensity becomes aroused. They seem to have neither feeling nor consideration for anybody or anything, so they have their little joke. A curious phase of this sort of performance is that many of these persons are really kind-hearted, and if it could once be impressed upon their minds that they seriously distressed and annoyed their friends and made them unhappy, they might possibly be induced to forego such vexatious amusements; but no one tells them how disagreeable they make themselves, and. therefore, they go on, the living annoyance of their circle and a terror to timid persons of all ages. To show that one cares about sueh things is often to furnish occasion for further teasing; therefore, the victims keep silence. Their only protection is the avoidance of the society of such people, and more than one man and woman have found themselves omitted from entertainments and left out of social gatherings without being able to account for the fact. Mending and Darning. We are told that a “stitch in time saves nine”; but it is often the case that a little bit of judicious prevention will save ninety and nine. The great difficulty in mending lies in the almost impossible tact of darning the

edges of the rent together iu good shape. It is a good plan to buy some net lace, such as is used for canopies or draperies, or for the darning-in pattern with which the ladies are lumiliar. If, when the knees of children's garments wear thin, a bit of this lace is basted on the under side and carefully darned down on the outside with tine thread or yarn the colour of the fabric, the garment will wear almost as long again. A piece of tine net darned down on the wrong side of a tablecloth will save a large rent, and will scarcely show. A careful housekeeper, who believes that waste of anything is almost a crime, uses coarse net for darning thin places in towels. It is surprising how much longer they will wear, and how easy the work is. Cut the lace in a square, if possible to use it that way. lay it smoothly on the goods, and with a long needle and very soft thread follow the meshes of the lace in and out, each mesh alternating until the edges are sewed fast. Be careful not to take the stitches through to the right side, at least if it is desirable not to have the patch showthrough. Then a few judiciously distributed runnings down on the right side of the goods, being very careful to follow the grain of the fabric, and make a short stitch on the right with a long stitch on the wrong side, and a great deal of hard work in the way ot later patching will be avoided. It is surprising how many uses one will find for this lace, once it is kept in the work basket. The mosquito netting lace, which has a coarse mesh, is sold in the city markets at twenty to thirty-five cents a yard, and is from two to three yards wide. A couple of yards will furnish a great many patches, and will also make the most convenient and useful bags for buttons, thread or many sorts of garden seeds. Indeed, its uses are manifold. as any housewife will find once she makes the experiment.

Gossip about Cushions, Laces, and Decorations Generally. into the (lecorationH of the home the storm ami stress of constant change does not’enter with a zest so keen as it applies to fashion. Still, though old modes flourish, there are new ones to chronicle from time to time. Not precisely in their babyhood, but sufficiently fresh to make them worthy of a word or two, are a certain and very pretty type of short blinds made of lace and China silk, or of fine white muslin and lace. The lace should be rather coarse and of a creamy tint, and the muslin or silk be pure white, and the former is appliquefl to the latter and is hung without gathers—that is, quite flat, upon little brass rings round a slender brass rod. Irregularity of design should be aimed at with respect to the lace; but if a broad border with a serrated edge be chosen for the base and narrower bands for the sides, a good effect is secured. Holiday spoils, such as pottery, embroidery, weapons, and curios, are best seen to advantage in their new quarters massed together with a definite purpose. A cosy corner is a good design up to which to work. The Oriental coSy corner need no longer consider itself sole occupant of the throne. Its empire is shared by the Swedish corner, the Russian corner, the English, Italian and colonial corners. All that is necessary is to preserve a unity of effect in the kind chosen. With Russian draperies and cushions, for example, one should not use a tabouret and a Turkish coffee set. but a small, low. square or round table enamelled in red and black, with a samovar or other Russian “tea things" on it. It is an old story that wood panelling can be bought by the

yard, so to speak, but is the fact perfectly realised that the ugliest room may by its aid l»e transformed into a Imronial hall? Hideous and uninteresting |»assages are rendered quaint ami charming by means of panelling, ami. say a hamlsonie frieze, perchance made of brown |m|>er dusteti with gold. Perhaps the fact is not quite as widely known as it should l>e that frilled cushion covers are no longer up-to-date. Cushions look less sumptuous unfrilled than frilled, but unfrilled they must l»e if they are to l>e in the height of fashion. The loveliest sofa pillows now made have a slip of colon red silk on them covered with fine white muslin embroidered by hand by Irish peasants. The Queen has a great numlier of these cushions at Balmoral. Windsor and Osborne. They are deliciously dainty-looking, and feel so cool.

To Win a Graceful Walk. The following exercises are said to develop the lines of the figure and make walking a graceful |>erfortnance: 1. Walk on tip-toe, toes slightly outward, with the knees straight, the hands clasped tightly behind the head, elbows as far back as possible. 'The more tightly the hands clasp the back of the head and the further back the elbows are held the better the result. 2. When tired of this exercise use the old goose step, that is, walking on tiptoe, with knees straight. 3. Hold the head erect and as far back as possible, not tilted up. but drawn back. Nothing else will so effectually raise the uppei; part of the chest. 4. Balancing articles on the head, after the fashion of the southern negroes, is said to ensure a graceful carriage, but the trouble with this exercise is that the tendency is to bend the body and incline the head slightly forward, as this assists in the balancing.