THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue XXIV, 16 June 1900, Page 1148

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

The problem, “What to wear,” has been a difficult one to solve during the past few weeks, and we despairingly look through our wardrobe for outdoor garments suitable to the rainy weather of which we have had a superabundance lately. Seldom has the mackintosh had a greater opportunity to set forth its indisputable right of place in fashion. Every variety of cut and colour has been seen in the streets. The old waterproof garment. having a "skirt portion” and a detachable cape, is a thing of the past, and one sees nothing now but the "coat” style, nearly all fashioned on one model, though varying in the minor details. In dress fashion the rage for tucks and pleats has by no means diminished, for we still see them decorating almost every part of the toilette—hats, bodices, skirts, and coats are all embellished in this way. and, so far as one can see. tucks are likely to hold their own for some time. The skirt tucked lengthwise, as 1 described the other week, is accompanied by sleeves tucked from shoulder to wrist, either at the back only or all round. We have seen a very pretty blouse bodice of this kind, which had the slightly pouched V-shaped front tucked diagonally, and worn over a pretty little chemisette of finely-tucked white silk, with lines of black velvet baby ribbon in between the tucks. Another had the shoulder of the bodice tucked, while the fulness at the waist part at the back was held in with tiny tucks, and the V-shaped opening was decorated with a handsome lace collar, opening over a finely-tucked vest similar to that above described. ® ® ® WINTER WINDS.

HOW A FLIMSt MATERIAL IS MADE TO LOOK WARM. Applique is charmingly allied to fur this winter. It loked like carved ivory upon a cape trimmed with black fox made for evening or afternoon wear for a fashionable woman last week. The cloth was of a pale straw-colour and that fine and close texture of material which will not fray, anil was appliqued over pale blue silk, the silk touched with embroidery stitches, while the cloth itself was left perfectly free from any adornment. The black fox (see sketch) was arranged over the shoulders to raise

hem. while at the same time it did not interfere with the graceful slope from the neck. At the back it dropped into a point, a graceful touch that

was insisted upon again in the long shawl effect the back of the wrap was made to take. One front swept well over the other, a matter of warmth as well as of beauty, with a splendid piece of fur to edge it.

Women, with well rounded figures, will find no more becoming and stylish jacket than the Dunbar. The front is single-breasted, and the darts extend in a seam up to the arms-eye. The back is cut in six narrow pieces, which insure a good fit, and the lower edge is without fullness and rounded out in six shallow scallops. Excellent materials for this jacket are mode. gray, or otter coloured broadcloth. lined with the same shade of silk or satin, and finished with collar. la|xds. and cuffs of black or any harmonious dark tone of velvet. The buttons are of crystal or brass. © © © PICKLE FASHION. A FLAT COLLAR RETURNS TO VOGUE. Ermine continues to l>e the most liked fur for the revers and collars of coats, though it is by no means invariably becoming to those who wear i*. ' Its most sumptuous applica-

tlon has just been invented. The tails of the ermine are taken and are used to outline piece laee. which, in its turn, has been encrusted upon eloth or silk. The pictured toilette with its ermine revets has a collar which, unlike the usual one of the day. dors not stand up al! round the head, but is made to lie down perfectly fiat over the shoulders. It is somewhat of a relief to get away from the regulation brand of storm collars. Thee coat worn bv the other figure

is chiefly remarkable because it is made of the new chequered cloth, a material that is “combed” up so that it looks quite rough, and has squares on it, provided by means of silk weaving. The collar and revers are trimmed with crochet galon, the very latest edition of new trimmings there is. ® ® ® This is a chinchilla toque with basin erown, and brim short at the back, broadening at the sides and front. It is dashed up in the centre of latter, and held by a folded knot of velvet (pale blue by choice), from which spreads an aigrette of white lace, and two grey ostrich tips, combined with a narrow row of chinchilla; a novelty introduced it will be remembered last winter, which still obtains this. Toques, or caps—as they are now-

being dubbed —are being much exploited now too of pheasant and partridge feathers. These are handsome and modish, and less likely to degenerate into common wear, but candour compells us to admit that though becoming to a really clear complexion they are not generally so. Strings have not caught on so much as was expected after all. The immensely high collar worn on nearly all the dressy eoats accounts largely for their abondonment, the combination of strings and collar giving too bunched-up an appearance, besides feeling smothery.

A stylish and practical design for a little girl’s frock, suitable for any of the favourite silk or woollen goods. There is a pointed yoke front and back over a slightly fulled blouse. The skirt is a straight full skirt, mounted to the waist, the joining being hidden by a belt sash. The yoke may be of all-over lace, embroidery. or tucking; or bands of tucking, alternating with bands of trimming. Ruffles of embroidery, lace, ribbon, or the material itself, trim the edges of the yoke, and form the sleeve caps. ® ® ® A natty little top garment suitable for either boys or girls. It is cut dou-ble-breasted and partly tight-fitting in the back. There is no additional fullness in the back, but the seams are slashed to give the desired width. Plain coloured and fancy mixed cloths, light or heavy in weight, are

suitable for this garment, trimmed with narrow braid, harmonising or contrasting with the material.

Here is a representation of a most stylish velvet mantle. It is In the form of a long eoat, fitting the figure behind and falling straight in front. It is made of soft sable coloured velvet, trimmed with fur to match, and has a quiet effect, in perfect taste. The entire front and the bottom part below the fur are trimmed with embroidery in silk to match the velvet. A shawl collar of sable descends on each side of the mantle and beneath this collar is a cape of embroidered, velvet covering the upper part of the arms. The mantle is lined with cream eolouned satin.