THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue VII, 17 February 1900, Page 332

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

The January sales are always an exciting source of speculation to the feminine mind, ami this January the sale fever has run particularly high, and extraordinary bargains have been the topic of conversation at the sympathetic hour of four o’clock, when tea and confidential matters are discussed. The wise woman, like Mrs John Gilpin, who has a frugal mind, looks about her now for a hundred and one articles she will need, and which can be purchased at nearly halfprice. Do not buy anything merely because it appears cheap if it is not pretty and in good style. But now that you practically know what portion of your wardrobe is still wearable, it is a good scheme to make out a list of what you must have for that awkward between time when it is too early to begin getting things for the winter and too late to add to this summer’s wardrobe.

The felt toque is to be one of the favourite styles of headgear, made of soft felt-like cloth, in swathed folds, generally a couple of choux of mirror velvet at the side. These choux are made like, gathered rosettes of doubled velvet, the frills quite four inches «ide. Sometimes one chou will be of a dark shade and the other of a paler tone of the same colour. Stitch-

ing is greatly in vogue for the decoration of the latest millinery, especially stitched velvet, the stitching being either white or in a light colour. Large hats are very much worn, and those of the Directoire style, often tied under the chin. The hat of velvet or panne bent down back and front has the’ double virtue of being exceedingly becoming and extremely smart. Such a one is illustrated here. The straight brim (of white buckram covered with black velvet) has a satin- : overed wire put on rather tightly; this assists the hat to take a becoming curve. Four good ostrich feathers trim it, centred with a big- chou of turquoise blue tulle, pressed through a golden buckle and carried round the hat behind, and appearing again under one side. A dainty trifle is the big white mousseline bow tied under my lady’s chin. This with white satin revers to a black coat, the revers strapped with narrow Iblaiek Satin bands, hath decided charms to please. Tile high deep turnover collar at the back too is one of the latest ideas. •> ® ©

But we must not confine our talk altogether to the airy fairy trities of Fashion, but remember that it is not always sunshine and heat, and

that the woman who has not" a warmer, heavier gown in her wardrobe, and yet smart enough for all sorts of occasions, is not wise in her generation. One of the latest modes of fastening is shown in the frock yon see here, and this also is a frock that would prove exceedingly useful. It is made of the new make of thick cashmere, grey in colour, the trimming formed merely by the stitched revers, buttoning tabs, and tunic. The buttons are steel, and the blouse is of fine white muslin. Of course the little silk-lined coat can easily be removed at will, or left unbuttoned, but looks better closed. © © O'And now for an everyday useful dress that one can comfortably and smartly wear for anything, when the day does not permit of more airy, chillier-looking garments, and especially when we are travelling about. The dress I have drawn for you is

as good an example as any, for its style is the height of the mode, it is exceedingly becoming, light, warm, inexpensive, and hardwearing. And if these are not suitable characteristics for a dress I should like to know what are? Last, but not least, I want it badly for myself! The material of this one is blue-grey cashmere, and cashmere, let me tell you, is to be one •>f the idols of our autumn days. The skirt is lined with sateen throughout; it bears no loose lining, as the oldfashioned sort is better for hard round. The skirt fastens down the front under the stitched band, and this stitched flap or band continues round the skirt to simulate a tunic. Under it fall three little flounces cut on the bias. The waist is encompassed by a narrow stitched band and a broadening stitched band buttons up the front to the little vest of pleated taffeta with small enamel buttons. Three little epaulettes cover the shoulders and continue round the back as a triple collar, under the rounded stitched band. Of course the stitching is done in blue-grey machine silk, and is the mode of ornamentation most in favour with our Parisian sisters, and the best London conturieres, but it needs an experienced hand to do it well. The toque is one of those knotted affairs of tulle or chiffon—this one of paler blue-grey chiffon, with a pale pink rose and a couple of black feathers in it. Vaporous strings encircle the throat; indeed, these strings are a fashion daily gaining approbation.. • • • Quite another style is shown here, and this has a character altogether its own and is very fashionable. The skirt is run into little upstanding tucks all round the hips nearly as far down as the knees. The tucks or pleats are also worn stitched down flat, but “ that is another story.” All this costume, skirt and Isidiee, is of the favoured French drap beige, which is a becoming fawn-coloured cloth, trimmed with panne-satin (the derniet cri as regards materials) of the pretty new “ serpent ” green, which is almost black. Tunic and flounce of the cloth are cut out upon another flounce of panne-satin, cut on the bias, and a little fnwn-coloured cord embroidery festoons the edge. The form of the bolero is new and interest-

ing. the back quite simple and tightfitting, and the fronts tight as far as the dart, where the front edge is cut longer and then gathered into the dart, forming a, pretty fussy effect. The trimming of the bolerois the same as the skirt with the same festooned embroidery surrounding it. The waistcoat is of swathed white silk, two little corners of panne-satin appearing towards the ears. The toque

is of the soft “ beaver felt,” in a fawn shade with a twist of dark green velvet and large wing feathers. ® ® ®

The pretty hat sketched above is so simple as to shape and equally so as to trimming that at a first glance it does not seem worthy to rank as a novelty, but the materials of which it is made are really quite a revelation. The shape is composed of satin, exquisitely wired to give it sufficient solidity, and stitched by machine to keep it in accordance with the rage for stitching. At a distance it looks almost like rice straw. Round the tall crown a broad band of beaver velvet is arranged, and there are loops of the same at the left side, with a cluster of velvet begonias. 'While the colour of the hat is a lovely rose pink, the flowers are of the natural reddishpink shade, and the beaver band is black, so that altogether a very pretty and pleasing combination is secured. Strange flowers still prevail, and we have lilies, edelweiss, ganlenias, and as well the old-fashioned cottage-gar-den flowers, such as dahlias and hollyhocks. The newest rosette js composed of velvet, literally wound round and round until it achieves a huge size, and looks exactly like the real meaning of the word “ chou ” —that is, a cabbage—as it is possible for anything in millinery to do. ® ® ® I have a pretty notion to show you which it would be useful for you to cut out. in all probability and show to your tailor, if you have been lucky enough to find one of the amenable kind who will listen to reason from lips. It is u|K>n the velvet vest and the way in which the straps are arranged

that the bodice depends for smartness. The vest is very jaunty and neat, and after opening over the inner one is

brought together with close-fitting hooks and eyes, so that it fits quite tightly to the figure. The straps give symmetry to the short Eton coat, and are so arranged they make a succession of V’s down the back of it, not too sharply pointed, by the way, but sufficiently- so to endow the figure with length. It is the long waist that looks best in a tailor-made suit. © © ©

The happy possessors of graceful, lissom figures are now able to make much " hay ” while the eel-skin and fish-tail “ sun ” in modes is shining, for though this style has many weak points it certainly shows to advantage the outlines Mr Pecksniff describes as “ graceful and correct,” and is eminently becoming to those women whose mission in life is to look charming and do nothing with all possible elegance. For practical, useful wear the eel-skin skirt, with its hampering flow of drapery round the feet, and fish-tail or fan-tail train behind is an impossibility. A charming model on these latter or dernier cri lines is illustrated in the Fig. The under skirt (with double flounce), under bodice, and sleeves are of aubergine velvet. The tunic is of very fine faced “pastel” cloth with scalloped edge, and edged

again with a narrow pastel and gold braid just scrolled nt the point- of each scallop. A narrow velvet twist encircles the waist, and is held at the

back by a dull gold buckle. The skirt and bodice both fasten on the left side of the front of the gown.

Black cloth and white satin is one of the smartest combinations for tailor-made gowns. Strips of cloth about an inch wide are stitched through one of the leading trimmings. The newest buttons are of cloth, with gold or silver rims. ® ® © The neat tailor-made gown for travelling would look best, made in a fine summer cloth or tweed, in a soft shade of grey, with the smartly-cut revers and collar of the coat in dark green velvet. The velvet revers and collar are laid over a second collar of plain white cloth. This jaunty little coat, by the way, is made in quite a new shape, fastening over on one side, with three rows of fine tailor-stitch-ing, and finished just below the waist, with small basques, cut almost like pocket-flaps, and breaking the line of the figure very becomingly. The

skirt fastens down the centre of the front, and is quite smooth and plain at the back. It is trimmed with waved lines of stitching, very prettily arranged, in the manner shown in the sketch. The hat should be of chip, in a pretty shade of dark green, always a pleasant and restful colour for travelling. The trimming consists of black velvet marguerites, with draperies of white tulle, leaf-shaped bows of the same, edged with little gatherings of tulle, and white tulle strings tied on one side, in the most becoming fashion possible.