AS SEEN THROUGH WOMAN’S EYES.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue VI, 10 February 1900, Page 281

AS SEEN THROUGH WOMAN’S EYES.

ALWAYS MODISH. Pearls are never out of fashion, so a present of these exquisite gems is always a safe one to give. There are people who fear that pearls are not as durable as other gems, but excepting damp they have few enemies. They may be washed, but they must not be put away in a damp place. There is no danger of their disintegration if the precaution of keeping them dry is taken, and they will outlive their wearer and their wearer’s descendants.

There are pearls of many colours and descriptions. Black and pink pearls are tolerably well-known, but there are purple pearls, too, and ethereally lovely they are. The rarity of a gem is one reason for its being sought, but there can be nothing more beautiful than the exquisitely pure white pearls, little round globes of iridescent light, with “skins” of milky whiteness. Pearls are particularly becoming to fair skins and women of the delicate spirituelle type not often seen in these days of robust women; they are charming, however, on any clear skin. The black pearl has a great attraction for some people. It is not more expensive than the white pearl, and is less in demand, as it does not attract in numbers.

It is no old woman’s tale that many owners of pearls wear them always, under their dresses . very often, to keep them in perfect health, and it has been known that pearls have been submerged in the sea to restore them to their pristine beauty.

BELTS FOR THE NECK.

The latest foundation for the popular stock collar is fitted with a finely tempered steel spring, which clasps the neck closely and holds the stock in place without any trouble. It does not bind the neck, as it is very light and yields to each movement, and, although it looks firm, it does not choke.

This light spring, crossing a little at the back, somewhat like a key-ring or bracelet, can be bought and covered at. home, and can be re-covered many times, for the steel never wears out.

A metal stock which does not require to be covered, but is intended as an article of jewellery, is quite a fad now. These stocks or collars are very much like a dog collar or belt. They are made in a great variety of form and pattern—plain, jewelled, silver and gold.

DAME NATURE TO THE RESCUE.

A fashionable and observant shoemaker says that just at the age when young women are anxious to have dainty feet, Nature comes gallantly to the rescue and shapes the feet smaller than they were when their owners were growing girls. “The feet of girls about seventeen or eighteen,” adds this shoemaker, “are generally large and shapeless. When the girls get older, however, and the foot becomes settled, new boots on the old last will be found too large.”

LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION

There is, perhaps, no branch of letter writing so generally abused as that which embraces letters of introduction, It is another phase of the Indiscriminate introduction business, which is frequently carried to an extreme.

The utmost diplomacy should be exercised in soliciting an introductory letter. Indeed, unless there be some very excellent reason for the request, it is better not preferred. You ask a double favour, for not only is it a favour on the part of your friend to comply with your request, but he in turn must ask a favour of his friend in your behalf. Too often these little missives are given for no other reason than because they are requested, and without the slightest thought of the trouble and inconvenience their delivery may entail upon the one to whom they are addressed; for, as La Fontaine says, a letter of introduction is like a draft, it must be cashed at sight. It is absolutely •incumbent upon the one receiv-

ing it to extend some sort of courtesy, such as an invitation to dine, to drive, to lunch or to sup. The only real justification of an introductory letter rests upon warm and intimate relations between the writer of the letter and its recipient. In nine cases out of ten the degree of intimacy does not warrant it, for even supposing that these relations exist, it does not follow that your friend should love every one held in high esteem by yon. Just, to show how little a letter of introduction really means, and how it is frequently regarded by all parties concerned, let us suppose a ease.

Let A be the writer, B the bearer and C the recipient. There may. be perfect accord between A and B, also between A and C. The feeling existing between B and C of course is a doubtful quantity. C receives the letter, and, from a sense of duty, extends courtesies to B, thereby often neglecting his own private pursuits and engagements. These attentions worthy of a long friendship being extended to a stranger, if is, of course, apparent to B that duty is the mainspring of the act. This can scarcely be an agreeable reflection to B. C’s affairs suffer, his attention being called in another direction. He considers it a hardship, and it is. The result is that C is greatly bored, while B is bored according to his intelligence, and the letter of introduction has served no material purpose. So one should be very wary in giving these letters, and one should never ask for one except in unusual circumstances. In business affairs they are frequently necessary. In the case of an old and valued friend who intends visiting a place where resides another friend who is regarded as warmly, and to each of whom one feels that the acquaintance would be agreeable, they are permissible But there are few other circumsrtances in which they are warranted. A letter of introduction should be brief and simple. For instance:

“My Dear Mary: This will introduce to you my friend, Mrs C. F. Blank, of whom, I am sure, you have heard me speak. She intends spending a few weeks in your city, where she is an entire stranger. Any kindness that you may show her will be warmly appreciated. Sincerely yours, “BEATRICE F. BROWN.”

The letter should be left unsealed, to be closed before delivery by the one introduced. A second and private letter should then be sent to the friend to whom the letter of introduction is addressed, stating the case exactly. It should explain whether Mrs Blank is a widow’, a divorcee or what she is, whether young, old or delicate, and any particular fad that she may possess.

The bearer of a letter of introduction should leave it, with his or her visiting card, without asking- to see the person to whom it is addressed. If one cannot deliver it one’s self it is more courteous to send it by messenger than by post. A man should leave the letter himself, calling later the same day, or he may leave his card with the note and not call until invited to do so. If the letter be to married people and the one who presents it be a man, then the husband should call upon him at his club or hotel. The stranger should return the visit, at once, unless, as will probably be the case, he receive immediately an invitation to dine, drive or go to the play.

If, however, the letter be to a lady, the gentleman waits to be summoned before making the second call. If it be a woman who bears the letter of introduction, she will probably at once receive an invitation to dinner or

lunch. A card is sometimes inscribed with these words above the engraved name: “Introducing Mr So-and-so.” This has merely its face value and imposes no social obligation. I shall be very happy to answer any questions on the subject of good form that may l>e sent to this office.

FAMILY JARS

There is rather an old-fashioned flavour, perhaps, about the expression “family jars." but I am afraid that the condition of things conveyed by

this expression has not gone out of fashion altogether, as in these days of general enlightenment one might have hoped that it would, it seems to me that modern young men and young women, with all their boasted culture, anti their advanced views, have failed altogether to realise the simple fact that there is nothing more vulgar or more objectionable than that everlasting bickering and fault-finding, and the holding up to scorn of each other’s small failings, which seem unhappily to be inseparable from certain family circles. These young people seem to forget, while they are busily finding out the vulnerable points in the armour of their brothers and sisters, that all these contradictory answers and sharp sayings must needs prove an utter weariness of the flesh to those unfortunate people who are obliged to listen while these unamiable conversations continue. As a rule, of course, when “company” is present, the family behaves 'itself fairly well, and the surface appears to be calm and unruffled, although it is more than likely that some of the younger members may be administering under the table surreptitious kicks to certain other of the juniors whose remarks may possibly have been considered offensive and illtimed.

This is bad enough, of course, though in the case of schoolboys and schoolgirls, it may be readily excused on the score of youthful impulsiveness. Far worse, from every point of view-, me the sulks and sarcasms indulged in by the elders. A frank criticism from one of the brothers as 11 his sister’s unbecoming gown, or a triumphant allusion to her evident efforts, and probable failure, to bring young- So-and-So to the proposing point, will draw upon his devoted head a. torrent of sarcasm not altogether undeserved, perhaps. His sis-

ter immediately reproaches him with his extravagance in taking a first-class season ticket on the suburban railway, when his mother and the girls have always to travel third for the sake of saving a few pennies here and there. She dwells upon the number of new, expensive ties he has indulged in since the beginning of December, anu his many pairs of boots, scarcely worn at all, but reposing in rows upon his bedroom floor. And so it goes on, with hard hits on both sides, until one or the other gives in, and subsides into a state of sulks, a condition which is, after all, sometimes worse t<. put up with than active animosity. The young woman with a grievance, who considers herself misunderstood, who answers not at all, but who sits gazing before her into vacancy, is responsible often for more serious family jars than her sharp-tongued sister, wncse vehement attack is soon over and forgotten.

I do not mean to say, for a moment, that this is a true picture of what goes on in every household where there is a. family of grown-up sons and daughters. But in some instances, I know that the cap will fit, and fit pretty closely, and where that is the case, I would strongly urge the young people among my readers (and the elders too. if they also plead guilty) to throw off this foolish habit of contradicting, and arguing, trying always to get the last word, and never hesitating to say’ what you may happen to consider smart and clever, entirely regardless of whether you may wound some one else by your unkindness. This perpetual jarring does not often express the real feelings of the combatants, who may be, at heart, honestly fond of one another. At the same time it quickly becomes a habit, and a very evil one, which should certainly be discouraged by every means in our power.

THE “MASCOT.”

"Do you possess a ‘Mascot’?” is the title of an article appearing- in “Cassell's Saturday .Journal” which deals with a subject of wide interest. Says the writer: —

On the Continent, faith in the “mascot” is wide-spread. The human luckbrimger is frequently a manhunehItaek. People who bet will frequently rub their ticket on the cripple's hump, "to bring luck.” and if they win there is a little gratuity for him. One cripple who died some years ago made quite a respectable income in this way. 'his biggest haul being when a fair gambler, who had touched his back with two lottery tickets, won a prize of two thousand pounds. The inanimate “mascot" is sometimes a coin that a man has had in his pocket when for the first time in the season he has heard the cry of the cuckoo. For that year anyone possessingthecoinwill.it is alleged, never l>e pushed for money. Besides wearing mere “charms”— which may l>e “lucky" pigs, beans, bells. Hies in amber, a four-leaved shamrock, or a double hazel-nut—-many women, perhaps more particularly in America, treasure a “mascot" «>f some sort or other. Naturally enough, there being seope for the indulging of individual fancy, queer things find their way into the collection—buttons from the coats of popular heroes; the heel of an actress's shoe: eyes from Eastern idols; nails from the horse-shoes of speedy troffers; small dried lizards, pressed fiat and carried in the purse; and even live “lucky” beetles. Trinkets and ornaments of quaint and if possible almost weird designs are popular, an? some uwmufacturers have found it worth their while to turn out these, each of a different pattern, and. consequently, fetching a high price. The plain round armlets of pliable twisted silver wire, worn by the Kaffirs of the Cape, are by some people thought to bring good luck. A certain English millionaire, for instance, keeps one on his arm. Some of our great families possess “lucky” jewels, which, if disaster came, would be the last things they would part with. On the stage the “mascot” flourishes exceedingly. Actors and actresses frequently- exchange- “lucky” presents, and over dozens of dressing-room doors in London alone, horse shoes may be seen nailed up. Superstition is. of course, rife in stageland, and things that you may not do and partieular articles that are tabooed are simply legion there. The late Sir Augustus Harris wotdd never have a peacock’s feather in his theatre; and he on one occasion discarded an expensive costume from a world-famed French house because it was trimmed with such “unlucky" plumes.

A TINY WATCH

There is a Berlin man who, it is said, is the proud possessor of a. timepiece which is considered to be the most, marvellous piece of mechanism ever put together. Ingenuity and human skill have been brought into operation, with the result that a watch has been constructed which measures less than one-quarter of an inch In diameter, or one with a face of about the size of the head of a large-sized tack or nail. The case is made of the very finest of 'gold, and the whole watch weighs less than two grains troy. In troy weight it tak» s 4SI» grains to make an ounce, and 12 ounces constitute a pound, or 5,760 grains are contained in a pound. This won derful piece of mechanism weighs onlyone 2,BSoth |>art of a pound. So great a curiosity was this midget considered that its owner paid £4OO for it, and would not sell it for twice that amount. The numerals on the face are in Arabic, and if the hands were put end to end they would not measure five twenty-fourths of an inch in lengfih. the large one Iteing less than oneeighth and the small one less than one-twelfth of an inc*h long. It has besides, just as an ordinary watch or clock, a second indicator, which Is aliout as large in diameter as the small hand is long, and the hand of this second indicator is less t'hnn one-six-teenth of an inch in length. The works and hands an- made of the finest. tempered steel, and set throughout in diamond chips. It is constructed on t'he most improved plan, lieing wound by the stem and set by pulling the stem out a short distance.

NECKLACES AND PENDANTS.

Shop windows are at present vying with each other for the best display of necklaces and pendants, writes our Paris correspondent. These jewels, usually suggestive of balls, low-eut gowns’, and dazzling, shoulders, have had their sphere extended, and special styles are shown for wearing with house and street dresses. As we have arrived at the age of art moderne, where everything from hat-pins and side-combs to shoe buckles repeats this fad, it is only natural that this new neck decoration should follow suit. They appear in all shapes, forms, ami designs, and are made for all tastes anti purses. There is the more modest, slender chain supporting an Egyptian charm in turquoise or royal blue enamel, the fascinating Greek tiesigns, and all sorts of Oriental necklaces —originality and eccentricity being the drawing cards. But the predominating collars consist of several rows of chains, no two links alike, stayed by antique coins or modern art medallions, and measure from a foot and a half to two feet In length. Just as the large silver-fox boa which the ultra-fashionable miss twines about her throat, makes you think for a moment that the wearer must have absentmindedly snatched up the fur rug lying before her fireplace, so the appearance and clang of these chain collars suggest shackles, prisons, and other gruesome thoughts. They are new. they are the fad—that suffices to silence all objections from an artistic point of view'; and at the last Auteuil races I counted no less than fifteen of these ornaments worn by well known sovietv ladies.

HOW TO CARVE.

Carving can be made a fine art by anv one vdho takes some pains to acquire it. It needs, in the first place, a little knowledge of the anatomy of the bird or section of the animal served up. A saddle of mutton should be carved in long slices, half lean, half fat. A ent should be made down the vdhole length parallel with the backbone, and slices cut diagonally- from the centre of the back to the end of the ribs. A Shoulder of mutton is as easy to manipulate, once the right side to cut is decided on; this can easily be ascertained by trying where the fork goes through on the forepart, the meat being t'hen cut in rather thick pieces. 'l'he under or inside should be carved in thinner slices lengthwise. A sirloin of beef having two qualities requires different treatment, the upper part being cut lengthway’s with the rib. t'he undercut being sliced across. Some very delicate fat will be found at the end of the undercut, a tiny portion of which should accompany each helping. It" is usual to carve the undercut before commencing t'he upper side, and the slices, though cut thinly, should be less so than those from the top. Cut right down to t'he tone very straight, leaving no holes or ridges, a portion of the streaky fat, or thin end. being given with the meat from the upper side. A loin of veal should be cut across fhrough the thick part in very, thin slices, and a small piece of the kidney and its fat should be sent to those who like it.

The fillet is carved in thin slices horizontally, like a round of beef. When carving a tongue cut straight I'hrough the thickest part, leaving, however, just sufficient to keep the two parts together. The slices should not be too thin, and of a wedge shape. A ham should be cut from fhe knuckle end (which should be turned to the carver's left hand), in thin slices, sloping toward the rig*ht. The carving of a fowl is not quite such an easy matter, and a certain amount of practice is required before complete success can l>e obtained. Insert the fork into the breast of the bird and pass the knife between the legs and fhe body, pressing the former outward and dividing the joints. Next cut along the breast, a little way down the side, leaving some of the white meat on each side of the breastbone; then cut down until the Joint is reached and take off the wings. Now remove the merry-thought by inserting the knife across the breastbone sloping it outward, and cut the slices on each side the central hone. In carving a capon a succession of slices must be cut from the brenst, taking fhe first slice from the near wing.

BABY’S LANGUAGE

An infant with “no language but a ery" can make itself quite intelligable to those who understand the various meanings of its voice. When baby persists in a loud violent cry, temper and nothing more is indicated, and the mother or nurse should cope with the mood firmly yet pleasantly, and with a full determination to put an end to such an exhibition of naughtiness. The peevish, whining cry sfhows that the child is in poor health or continued discomfort. A paroxysmal cry, especially when the legs are drawn up, denotes colic. A cry t'hait nothing will quiet means usually hunger, thirst, or an irritation of the skin. In lung troubles the cry is short, because it takes air to produce screams. A sleepy child cries fretfully, and usually rubs its eyes and nose. The child that never cries is rarely met, and when a wee one who has once been a brave screamer waxes absolutely quiet and quite lethargic, his mother frets, for she knows her darling cannot be well to be so good as that. The voiceless weakness of a child sick unto death is a terrible state of being to look upon.

HOW TO FIT A SHOE.

"People would find less difficulty in suiting themselves witn ready-made shoes, ' said an experienced shoemaker, "if they would stand up to have them fitted. Nine persons out of ten require a particularly comfortable ehair when they are having shoes tried on, and it is difficult to make them stand for a few minutes even when the shoe is fitted. Then, when they begin to walk about, they are surprised that the shoes are less comfortable than they were when first fitted. The reason is simple. The foot is smaller when one sits in a chair than it is when one is walking about. Exercise brings a considerable quantity of blood to the feet, which accordingly swell. The muscles also expand. These facts must be borne in mind when one buy’s one’s

shoes, or discomfort and disappointment are sure to be the result. People who are not comfortable in ready made boots should have both feet measured. The result will generally be the discovery that they have feet of different sizes and therefore need specially made boots.”