THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue III, 20 January 1900, Page 140

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

L'ii<l<»ubt«*djy in the art of dress, head«fear is a very important factor. Se:i«iit.y locks, ill-groomed and Hlcoiffed hair lake away much beauty from the prettiest head, and an unbecoming hat will ruin the smartest costume. The ha‘r is st<ill worn very high on the head. For the theatre or evening it is rolled up in a pompadour in front, ami the back hair drawn far forward to meet the pompadour on the tip-top of the cranium. The idea is to display a long line over the crown to the nape. But do not make the grievous mistake of allowing the back hair to draw tightly up from the neck, nor must you let uneven hairs straggle out behind. If your hair does not naturally wave give a slight omiule to the back hair, draw it up loosely but smoothly, ami insert some small combs in the base of the coil, ami if you w'sh an invisible net will keep the hair firm ami even. Hani crimped waves ami heavy fringes are quite out of fashion. A few tendrils of hair only stray over the brow. For day wear many smart women wear the hair low on the neck, and it is a very graceful style; but whether the coiffure lx* elaborate or simple, it must be well dressed. For evening ornamentation flowers are much used, sometimes in a little clump either side of the head. .lap. fashion, sometimes as a wreath, or else a single rose. A twist of white or coloured tulle threaded through the hair is another pretty fash'on. and jewel led combs will be worn again. America has many unique styles of its own. ideas that one finds nowhere else. For example, at balls and dinners the belles dress their hair most gracefully with chaplets and loaves of natural flowers, and the effect is lovely, ft has an oldfashioned charm that is fetching. One belle appeared in a chaplet of grape leaves, with small bunches of real purple grapes, forming a lovely frame for her beautiful face. Another young lady wore a chaplet of roses, and one girl had masses of berries in rich orange in her black hair. One beautiful blonde girl was all in yellow gauze, and about }ier fair head she wore a close wreath of yellow asters. She looked Eke a golden beauty, for she was the kind of blonde to whom yellow is so strikingly becoming.

The picture hat has been so much ’ll evidence of late, a sketch of it in one of its latest moods is given in Fig. 1 as a suggestion for our readers who are on smart gatherings and promenade intent. This model is of fine black chip straw. has a “Direetoire” crown, ami the broad brim bent down quite flat at the back. It has three rows of narrow black ribbonvelvet round the crown, three black ostrich plumes, a big bunch of crushed pink roses under the side of the brim, and narrow black ribbon-velvet strings. The übiquitous sailor hat. to be correct this season, is large and low of crown and narrow of brim. It is worn low on the forehead .and the hair must be carefully dressed ondule beneath. Under these conditions it is again quite de rigueur, and as yet the knock-a.bout hat for holiday wear that is to take its place has not been discovered. ® © ® AH sorts of out-door recreations will continue in full swing yet awhile, and to this end I have designed you a new tennis or golfing blouse, and one that will comfortably replace the

lighter ones of hotter days. This example is of green taffeta silk, not a thin and frippery glace, as these wear so badly, but a good thick taffeta. The. cuffs and large collar are of white silk or linen, with a broad hemstitched hem. The colla round the throat is of the same, under which is tied a little bow of green velvet. The blouse, you will see. is made with three box pleats, and is by no means difficult to comprehend. The large collar forms a square behind. The hat is natural coloured straw, bound with black, ami trimmed wit.h two white quills thrust through a chou made of white taffeta ribbon. This green shirt bears

the advantage of looking well with either a navy blue, a black, or a white skirt.

One needs a very good figure in order to wear successfully some of the latest frocks, as the cut is so ex-

treinely simple as to ’show off every eurve of the body. But if you will only take my oft-repeated advice and buy good corsets and often, I think you will find quite an average figure passes muster well. The little gown I have sketched for you here is a very charming one, either for travelling or daily wear, and its exquisite plainness is very French. The material is navy blue, the Fevers of the double collar being faced with a fancy plaid silk, which also forms the waist-bond. The vest is of guipure with a mousseline de-soie eravate. The bodice is not quite light-lifting, but blouses slightly in

front. The toque is of blue crumpled straw, with one large chou of navy bine taffeta ribbon through which is thrust a black and grey quill, and at the other side of this is a bunch of blue lobelia. © ® ® This costume is of paile blue foulard, spotted with white, the skirt of which is quite tight in the upper part, the width developing gradually to the bottom. It is trimmed with three flounces. at equal distances, each gathered, and headed with narrow black lace and bordered with narrow black insertion laid on flat. The corsage is gathered, without seams, beneath the waistband, and is quite supple. It opens widely down the centre, and has pointed lapels descending to the waist. faced with gathers of black lace. Between each arm runs a band of black lace inser-

tion, which runs round the back. The chemisette is of soft white lawn, trimmed with black lace in lozenge patterns. The neck trimming is of blue foulard, veiled with black lace insertion, and the collarette of gathered lace. The sleeves are very tight: they are triinmed round the wrists with black lace flounces. The hat which completes the costume is of Italian straw, with a. wide brim turned down in front and behind, and slightly turned up at the sides. It. is ornamented on the left side with a garland of tea roses without foliage. The crown is low and flat, and is bound with narrow black velvet, and ornamented with a. square strass buckle in the centre in front At the back of the crown are four heads of white ostrich feathers drooping over.