The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXII, Issue XVIII, 6 May 1899, Page 621

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

We are gradually growing accustomed to the present styles. Parting from our full sleeves and wide skirts was a terrible wrench. However, they have made way for a far more graceful style of dress. The great difficulty of the moment with respect to the tight skirts is where to put the pockets. Very often the difficulty is solved by putting none at all in the skirt. We have to go back to the days of our grandmothers, and carry a reticule in which to put our handkerchief, purse, and other etceteras. These reticules are very smart affairs, sometimes to match the costume or of brocade. With respect to materials for this winter I think the choice is endless, and many of the fabrics will lend themselves to the loveliest combinations of colour and cunning design of the dressmakers’ art. Pipings are very fashionable for vests and bodices and jackets, and embroidered trimmings are as popular as ever. An idea which girls who are clever with their fingers may avail themselves of is to get some plain, fancy, or open-worked braid, and stitch it over with beads and insert a few imitation jewels such as turquoises, sapphires, or brilliants. This will make a pretty trimming for evening wear.

The cape just now is of sable with a flounce of the same at the edge, and under that a pleating of silk, or satin, of dainty tint in piece with the lining, and perhaps yet another pleating of lace within that of the silk. These costly little wraps are, of course, for the few, and the many must content themselves (if their affections incline towards capes) with other varieties of these useful and ofttime dressy garments.

A model we saw at a leading modiste’s which might be brought within reasonable expenditure, is illustrated in this figure. The cape itself is built of velvet flounces, and is to the waist. The high collar and revers (which terminate in stole ends) turn back with white satin covered with black guipure lace, and are edged with a narrow border of dark sable or mink. The effect was handsome and smart, and might easily be attained by clever fingers and gumption at a moderate outlay for dressy occasions. A cape of this kind is an important investment for those whose ‘poverty, and not their will, consents’ to a limited wardrobe, for it can be made of dual use: for dressy day wear, and for an evening wrap also.

A QUITE NEW MODEL. A final stroll round the showrooms of the elect in the world of modistes, confirms the various opinions we formed at an earlier stage of the dress campaign for this autumn and winter. Excepting cloth, eashmere, and velvet, nearly all materials are brocaded, patterned, or stamped. Eur will be used on almost everything. Jackets mantles, or capes may be worn, and can be quite short, medium, or long. Skirts are a good deal trimmed and

elaborated, but one may—provided it be of the right cut—wear a plain skirt without being beyond the pale. Brown, green, red, and portwine colour are the most used colours for the moment.

I give to-day four styles of evening coiffure. It will be noticed that a favourite style is to bring the hair up to a pointed knot on the crown of the head. Ornaments are very freely used in the form of butterfly bows, aigrettes, feathers, and any decoration that may suit the fancy of the wearer. The illustrations of hair ornaments given to-day are of a kind worn, and look very nice. As velvet is to be very fashionable this winter for evening wear I give a costume in the latest Parisian style, which can be made in black or colour with equal effect.

The Norfolk bodice being in favour again, the. leading tailors have wrestled with the question of retaining the spirit of the jacket while allowing the throat to open, in order to show the linen collar ami front, which is the indispensable finish to the tailor made gown of tin- hour. This figure reveals the result of one of our most exclusive tailor's consider ations’ of the matter, which, we think, our readers will agree with us

is smart and effective. The material in this model is a soft grey tweed. The neek is ent square, the two side pleats coming from either side of it. The centre pleat is, it will be seen, ilispensed with, and the bodice fas-

tens under the left pleat. Over each shoulder and pleat, to the length of the square, is a strap of tan.leather fastened by a tan bone button, the waistband corresponding. Velvet could be substituted for the leather, and an ‘Amazon’ hat in grey tweed would make a nice finish to the toilette with a band of tan velvet.

In this figure the modish gown of the moment is shown of ‘Princess’ cut, which holds much sway. It is cut open at the shoulders, crossing over to the left side where it ostensibly fastens with two large jewelled buttons, and then opens again, showing at each respective opening an un der robe of tartan. This charming gown is of blue-green poplin, the

shade of the 42nd plaid, which forms the under robe, and is bordered entirely round with narow dark mink fur. This design might w’ell be carried out in a less expensive material than poplin, such as cashmere, for instance, which is always a delightful fabric, and splendid wear, besides being favoured this winter again by the fashion powers that be.