The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXII, Issue XVI, 22 April 1899, Page 542

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

With the approach of winter every woman is eager to hear of Lady Eashion’s latest whims and fancies, for although a fickle goddess, nevertheless at her shrine all women worship. Well it is decided we are to be sylph-like creatures this winter, as all the new designs of skirts cling to the figure. Skirts of to-day simply mould the hips, and from the knees downwards ripple out around the sides and back. Some women go to extremes, and adopt this fashion without giving a thought as to whether it becomes their figures or not. The result is not always pleasing. Those who take a more moderate view of fashions, clothe themselves with an up-to-date smartness, free from exaggeration, and a simplicity which betokens the best of good taste. A skirt can be made to fit a few inches below the

waist, without too closely defining the figure. Cloth and velvet which are so much worn this winter, are particularly adapted for this style, owing to their graceful, clinging properties. It will be quite en regie to wear bodices either close fitting or abundantly trimmed with braid, velvet, and fur. Huttons are to be much more in vogue. Appliques and many rows of stitching on cloth are also fashionable, and when artistically done really contribute very much to the effectiveness of a costume. The long continuance of fine warm weather has prevented any marked change in street dresses, but as the arrival of the swallow is said in some lands to denote the advent of summer, an occasional glimpse in Queen Street of a cloth tailor made costume, furs and velvet, suggests that winter is near at hand. These charming creations offer continual variety of material and fashioning, but be they of silk, chiffon, or velvet, each has a peculiar fascination and individuality. New designs in bodices are continually brought out.

differing from one another, however, in little save in manner of trimming. This small matter of trimming, however, means a great deal, as on its manner of application depend the graceful effect and tasteful appearance of the garment. In colour it must suit the complexion of the wearer, ami its arrangement must be suitable to her figure. When these are attained, with the primary essential of a perfect fit, the woman of the plainest feature borrows a charm from this perfection of dress. And this charm is altogether apart from the cost of the material of which her gown is made. A very inexpensive material wears an air of elegance when well made and tastefully trimmed. These bodices can be worn under bolero or Eton jackets, which may or may not have sleeves.

The clinging style that characterises the new season’s modes is well exemplified in the dress costume here illustrated. Rich novelty’ goods that show a black satin waved stripe in bayadere effect are used for the skirt, bodice and sleeves, the yoke, full front, collar and revers being of white taffeta striped with rows of black lace insertion. The skirt in circular shaping is made with a bias seam in centre front, the stripes being arranged to meet in Vshape. The foot trimming consists of two narrow frills of black satin ribbon. Three short darts at each side fit the skirt smoothly over the hips, the fulness in back being laid in single deep plaits that come closely together and completely hide the placket, which is finished at top of the centre back seam. The lower edge flares gracefully in pretty ripples (caused by the shaping) to the foot, where it measures four yards. The seam in front is a fancy, not a necessity, and may be omitted when not desired. The stylish bodice, is arranged over

glove-fitted linings that close in centre front and combines the fashionable guimpe effect with the full vest front so universally becoming. The seamless back is shaped in low, round outline at the top, disclosing the yoke of taffeta and lace, which is applied over the lining, the slight fullness at the lower edge being drawn well to centre back. The full vest is gathered and

joined to the deep, square yoke, the right edge of which is included in the shoulder rows and attached to the right lining front. The neck is joined to the smooth standing collar and closes at the left shoulder and on the left front lining underneath the lapels. The over fronts are faced and roll baek from shoulder to waist, tapering to form the handsome lapels. Gathers at the lower edge form a pouched effect in front, while the sides are smoothly adjusted over the fitted lining.

A combination of black with any becoming colour can be thus stylishly developed, the choice of garniture for decoration being almost unlimited. The mode is adapted to all-wool and silk fabrics and is suitable for visiting, or informal entertainments. A bodiee of silk in this style could be worn with any separate skirt or the toilette could be fashioned throughout from plaid, wool goods, such as cashmere, veiling, etc. To make this bodiee for a lady of medium size will require two and onefourth yards of material forty-four inches wide. To make the skirt will require three and one-half yards of the same width material.

The Norfolk jacket promises to be a prominent feature this winter, and may be welcomed as a trim and useful item for winter wear. The newest cut for these jackets is shown in this figure. It will be seen, this is built entirely on the lines of a man’s Norfolk, with the exception, that the sleeves are a trifle fuller at the shoulder. An entire suit of very light tweed check, with a Norfolk bodice cut thus, would make smart wear (finished by natty collar, cuffs, and

tie, and white gloves). Apropos, what a world of difference these ‘ finishings’ make. The most unimpeachable gown or suit may be completely discounted by those apparently unimportant eteetras, collars, neckties, veils, gloves, and, of course, shoes. The art of finishing properly is rarely to be acquired, however, it generally evolves from an innate perception in taste.

There is a remarkable air of elegance about the chestnut-brown cloth dress, illustrated here and drawn .in Paris, with its graceful lines. How charmingly the plainness of the skirt whispers the hope that after all trimmed skirts are going to take a rest I The tall storm collar is made of very dark violet panne, and embroideries of leaves and conventionalised flowers figure on the panel of the skirt, done in paler mauve chenille and most dexterously contrived. The bodice, with its chenille-em-broidered revers, has a basque cut in rounds, two in front and one broad and rather long one behind. A picture hat is worn with the costume, profusely plumed with deep violet ostrich feathers. The skirt about the hips remains very closely fitting, but the hem thereof is generously full. The sleeves are

like gloves for tightness, and the bodice, fastened in a slanting direction with chestnut-coloured crystal buttons .terminating in the centre of the waist line, is moulded to the figure with tailor-like precision. A most charming costume was recently seen at a fashionable ‘ at home’ on a pretty girl of about eighteen. It was composed of a very fine, soft cloth in a delicate shade of French grey. The skirt was formed of tucks, which reached quite halfway up to the waist. There was no fulness at the top of the skirt, and it fastened down the centre of back with steel buttons and grey cord. The coat was tight-fitting at the back, but loose in front. It had a short basque, which was rounded in front and over the hips. The coat was invisibly fastened down the front, and the revers, turn-down collar, and euffs were ornamented with several rows of narrow-frilled white satin ribbon. The hat of grey felt was trimmed with white velvet and grey feathers, while the brim was lined with accordion pleated pale pink silk. White chiffon was twisted round the throat, and tied to form a dainty bow beneath the chin. EMBROIDERY AND KNITTING SILKS. Some very pretty novelties in the way of embroidery and knitting silks have been introduced recently by Messrs Jas. Pearsall and Co., English manufacturers, who are represented in Australasia by Mr Allan Bruce, of V ictoria Arcade, Auckland. Their employment of a dye which will really not run in washing unless soda or caustic soap powders are used will be ecpecially appreciated. Besides the ordinary filoselles, crewel, knitting, cable and embroidery silks they have a silk called mallard floss, which will be somewhat of a novelty in this market. This is a twisted floss silk, in boiling dyes, very lustrous, is easy to work, does not need splitting before use, and covers large surfaces quickly. The firm are also introducing needlework manufactured in their own factories. Some of the latest productions are: Ramazen. a bengaline silk traced with a design of flowers; and Leaf Satin, another very effective serie-material, is a rich satin traced all round with a leaf design and worked in white silk and gold thread, and then eut out, leaving the ‘leaf’ border.

'l'he silks are all done up, and as far as possible sold by weight and not by the gross or dozen. A small alteration in the size of the thread or the length of a skein or ball, while making all the difference in the cost to the manufacturer, cannot be at once detected by the buyer. This arrangement guarantees the public full value. The firm’s goods are obtainable from the leading needlework shops throughout the colony, and wholessde from the agent.