LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXI, Issue XXI, 19 November 1898, Page 672

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

What a tempestuous spring" we have been having and, from a lady’s point of view, the worst feature about the weather has been the dreadful state of uncertainty as to what they should wear into which it has plunged the fair sex generally. The pretty French

muslins and zephyrs which everyone has lx?en buying so profusely must be content to bide their time for being worn a little longer yet. But in the meanwhile for dressy occasions nothing could look more stylish and pretty than the costume of straw-coloured taffetas which is here depicted for my readers' benefit. The skirt is rather long and rounded at the bottom, and is trimmed all round with five rolled pleats close together. The upper part is a fourreau at the back and sides, and has neither pleats nor gathers round the waist, the front being flat from top to bottom. The skirt is trimmed down the centre with two rows of gilt passementerie buttons close together, increasing gradually in size downward. The sides of the skirt are trimmed with five chevrons in lace cut out and inlaid in embroidery over mauve taffetas. The lowest descends in front to within 15 inches of the bottom of the skirt and the uppermost to about 5 inches from the waist. This latter is lost on the inset at the waist. Each garland of lace is edged with narrow frisettes of mauve mousseline de soie. The corsage is embroidered all over with arabesques worked in gold beads, interspersed with rows of gilt passementerie buttons matching those on the skirt. It opens down the centre over a double waistcoat, beneath which is a front of frilled mauve taffetas. Down each side of the waistcoat is a ‘barbe’ of white lace falling over white mousseline de soie. On the right side the corsage is ornamented with four small tabs of mauve taffetas veiled with incrustations of lace, which have the effect of connecting the sides of the corsage. The neck trimming, which is of frilled mauve taffetas, fastens behind with a horizontal bow. The waistband is of the same material, draped and frilled, with a plain bow behind. The sleeves are flat and tight from end to end, and are ornamented with five rows of embroidery diagonally in the same style as the skirt, on a ground of straw shot taffetas. The jockey epaulettes are of the same taffetas, the upper part being straw coloured and the lower mauve, and both frilled. The cuffs are trimmed with small gathered flounces of English point lace, partly covering the hand. A round hat of black straw completes the toilet. The brim is slightly rolled all round. The low crown is draped with a veil of English point lace spotted with black chenille, and trimmed with two black ostrich feathers, which run round the brim. In the centre of the hat in front is a tuft of three tea-roses.

There is that about a lounging robe which combines beauty of colour and grace of line that inevitably appeals to every feminine heart. The model shown is eminently luxurious, yet is

simple in the extreme. As illustrated, the material is soft cashmere, in warm, rich red, with facings of China silk in the same tone. The garment is fitted by shoulder and under-arm seams only, the fulness at the back being arranged in gathers at the neck,

while that of the fronts is collected at the shoulder seams. The neck is cut high and turned over to form the simple collar, and a band of silk in the same width runs down the front and round the lower edge. The rightfront laps slightly over the left, where the closing is invisibly effected. The double sleeves combine grace with comfort, and make a specially desirable feature. The inner snug-fitting ones are two-seamed, while the outer ones are bell-shaped and fall from the shoulders to a point slightly below the elbows. Both are finished with bands of silk.

The accompanying illustration shows a pretty blouse suit. It is of green and blaek stripes running hori-

zontally, and is very chic. The bodice is prettily braided, and the thing is very effective on a tall, slender girl. The fashionable colours for evening wear are grey, yellow, pale blue, purple, red and green, all of the most delicate and mysterious shades imaginable. Ribbons in satin and velvet are popular for trimmings. Bright orange in satin or velvet, used as belts, rosettes, or any small decoration, is specially successfulyas a trimming on white, black, or grey. Black satin

skirts continue to be given great favour, and a wise young matron, wishing to be economical, can have several fancy bodices, each of different colour and material, to wear with her black skirt, and then by the artistic use of a coloured belt and collar each bodice will seem a different toilette. The very distinguee toilette, especially adapted for a married lady, shown in the above illustration, is another proof of the popularity of the black satin skirt. This one has been eutre-deux

of black lace over a rich rose satin ribbon as a trimming upon the skirt. The bodice, also of satin, is finished with an enormous white guipure collar, spangled with black jet and rose amethyst beads. The sleeves are of black lace over rose, and the belt is of heavy rose satin with a bow at one side and long sash ends. In a model inclined to plumpness, a black sash would be more appropriate, or one of rose powdered here and there with black lace applications.

I should like to say a word to my bicycling sisters — and is not their name now legion?—concerning this year's fashion in bicycling dress. One thing notable about the fashionable wheelwoman this year is her short skirt, which has been gradually abbreviated until it is about the length of the very short: under petticoat which is always worn next the body, .and the rather daring innovation in coloured ’knickers.’ The ’knickers’ are no longer of a sober hne or of the same hue as the skirt. Now it appears to be the style to have them match the stockings rather than the outer garment, as last year. If the stockings are a checked green and blue, or even of louder colours, the ‘knickers’ are also of the same interesting mixture. If the stockings are of tan, green or blue the same colours are continued above. As everything is military, more or less, this year, of course there had to be a military bicycle girl, and she has appeared be-buttoned, be-striped and be-spangled. She is quite the most attractive thing to be seen just now in the Boulevard, and not infrequently do her saucy cap, her gold braid and buttons call forth an approving cheer from people in the street. One noticed had the usual skirt and jacket made of dark blue broadcloth, done with narrow gold braid as to skirt and jacket, and a narrow piping of red bordered the jacket, while a military red cloth faced the fronts. A jaunty cap with a colonel’s stripe, a pair of dogskin gloves and a tiny flag completed a rarely picturesque -“get up.’ The latest cycling costumes, by the way, show a preference for the dark shades of blue and green, rather than the light fawn and tan shades which have been so much worn. FANS AND FANCIES. Fans to match every costume are ■what the smart woman must now provide. There is an immense variety to choose from, so this should not be a formidable task. A late fancy is the violet fan. In the shops these are very expensive, but the girl with quick fingers and artistic eye can easily manufacture one at home. The foundation is a white silk or satin fan. with rather long, plain sticks. Medium silk violets are chosen, and are glued carefully

on. They must not look stiff, but as if they had fallen carelessly upon the fan. The fan is laid flat while the violets are fastened on. and is then pressed with a heavy weight until thoroughly dry. It is not intended to close. Other small flowers, forget-me-nots. heather, or lilies of the valley, are used in the same way. More gorgeous are the lace fans, embroidered with spangles, with jewelled sticks. Fans of this variety are very costly and very frail. Flies and creeping things are most popular for hairpins. There is a huge bumble bee enamelled in its own brilliant colours, with jewelled eyes. Dragon flies, which sparkle in the sunlight. are very pretty as fasteners for dainty summer millinery. Long green lizards, the bodies studded with emeralds. and the eyes of rubies, make costly and coveted hatpins. Butterflies, too. come in for a good share of popularity. Both in genuine and imitation brilliants they are shown in every conceivable variety. Very chaste are the pins of huge pearls rising from a chalice of finely cut rhinestones. Jade is a novelty for hatpins, and is being used extensively. The stone is considered as a talisman against evil. A cheap, flashy hatpin will spoil the appearance of the most expensive hat. The sensible woman buys a solid gold or silver pin with a handsome and substantial head. The purchase proves a good investment in point of looks and durability. Heirlooms of cameo pins or bracelets are taken from jewel boxes, and are surrounded with a flashing circlet of gems. An effort is being made to revive the popularity of brocade, and it looks as though their day would once more come round. Some of the shops show rich patterns in both black and coloured silks. Embroidery and jewels are lavishly used upon dressy costumes. A Paris creation has the front of the waist, the front breadth of the skirt, the epat lettes and the upper sides of the sleeves wrought in almost solid embroidery.

CLEVER IDEA THAT WILL PROVE A BOON TO WOMEN.

Everybody notices, with a degree of joy or disappointment dependent upon Iter own physical perfection, that sleeves are undeniably growing ‘small and beautifully less.’ Many women there are who are already wearing really tight sleeves, anti among these the old-time complaint is repeating itself like an echo of the far past: ’How these things do stretch and pull out of shape.’ This is especially the trouble with unlined sleeves made of thin material, that pret I s mode that intensifies the beauty of curves and whiteness of skin beneatn.

It is in the pulling on and off that tight sleeves have been torn and spoiled A new method of adjustment recently concocted by a clever little woman who thinks, and which has been quickly adopted by several of the leading dressmakers' establishments, is designed to do away with this wear and tear and inconvenience. The new sleeve has only one seam, and is made a full inch too loose for the arm. Down the outside of the seam is sewn a very fine cord of silk elastic. This is twisted at intervals of half an inch or less into small raised loops. The elastic must match exactly the colour of the gown. Parallel with the range of loops and separated by an inch from it is a row of tiny buttons. Is it not simple? The sleeve amply large is dawn on with ease; then the wee elastic loops are slipped over the buttons that correspond with them in numbers, and the sleeve becomes tight. In removing the loops are first unbuttoned and the sleeve is saved from stretching. It is a practical idea and one that can be easily followed, and will be appreciated by any one who has ever ruined fine sleeves in the donning and doffing.