LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXI, Issue XVIII, 29 October 1898, Page 577

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

In the present uncertain weather it will not do to put our little girls into the light textured summer garments which, with the child’s desire for something different

from what it ha* l»een wearing, they are eager to don. Here, however, is illustrated a charming little costume which can be worn tor a short time, until the hot days come, laid aside while they are with ns, and put on again on the arrival of cool autumn weather. It is a smart little jacket and skirt in a light make of brown cloth. The front is of fawn silk and is slightly pouched.

There is nothing more becoming to either a slim or stout figure than the soft bodice which gives all the comfort of a blouse, and yet has the trim lines of a snug-fitting garment. Such a one is the accompanying cut, which illustrates a gown of foulard silk in blue and white, but is suited for all the soft summer fabrics. There is a fitted lining, which insures a pretty fit. The seamless back is plain across the shoulders, and the slight fulness is drawn into the belt. The fronts, like the back, have no fulness but that which results from not seaming them into the figure. The fasten-

ing is at the left side. The edge of the right front, which fastens at the side, is cut in squares and trimmed with black velvet. Under this is a cascade of white lace. The sleeves have but little fulness, and over them fall small epaulettes which are edged with the black ribbon velvet. The collar, fastening at the side, has two rows of the velvet, a small steel buckle, from which falls a becoming bunch of lace. The velvet appears at the wrist and again for the narrow belt, upon which are also used the fancy buckles. To make this garment the amount of material used for the medium size is two and one-fourth yards of 44-inch material. Lady cyclists are likely to find the pretty cycling skirt and jacket illustrated by my sketch very attractive anil serviceable. Dust gray cheviot finished summer serge is here stylishly decorated with black braid, the lapels and collar of jacket being

faced with white poplin. The waist of fine percale in red and white plaid closes invisibly in front, and in place of the usual necktie only a wrinkled stock of the material is worn, which closes in the centre

back. By the aid of an ordinary pin placed under the lapels the jacket is held in place and gives added grace, comfort and style to the dainty shirt waist. The skirt is shaped in three portions— a front gore and circular sides that are joined to the saddle gore in centre back. Two small darts at the top give a smooth adjustment over the hips, the backward turning plaits in centre completely concealing the saddle gore which is adjusted to the fronts by elastic straps which hold it in place. The front gore has spring enough at the foot to meet the requirements of pedalling, and the closing is invisibly accomplished by buttons and buttonholes on a fly under the pointed overlaps. The skirt is of the correct length and measures tour yards at the foot. It will keep its place and not ride up when on the wheel if a stout facing of moreen or similar material is firmly stitched on. The braid must be stitched on by machine on both edges, no loose trimming nor hand sewing being safe to wear on a bicycle. Many black costumes and dark blue are worn this season, but gray, not readily showing soil ami dust, is a favourite colour with practical women. The note of colour that makesit generally becoming is found in the vest or neckwear. Serge, covert cloth, cheviot homespun, in plain or mixed colours, are rivalled in warm weather by crash, pique, linen and cotton homespun, but woollen fabrics give the most satisfaction. A tailor finish of machine stitching may take the place of braid on the smart suit. To make this jacket for a lady of medium size 14 yards of material 44 inches wide will be required.

Here is a sketch of a very pretty ami stylish-looking dressing-gown, which, although the shape is very easily made, yet may be equally called a tea-gown, always supposing that the material employed will warrant such an appellation. If a mere dressing-gown is desired, ordinary flannel or flannelette may lie used for the purpose, while supposing we require something smarter and more dainty, I would suggest at this season of the year a flowered cambric, a sprigged muslin, or a dainty delaine, while the broad collarette, lower sleeves, and waistband may be of white, blaek or softly coloured moire silk. Further elaboration may be employed by means of lace frills placed at the edge of the collar, and arranged also to fall over the hands. This gown need notin any case be lined, or, at any rate, not further than the hips, in which case the shape of the lining must be cut exactly the same as the shape of the

material. The fronts are left full and easy, being held in place by the crossed silk waistband. SOMETHING ABOUT THE SASH. A MATTER OF THE MOMENT. In some countries the sash is regarded as a most important article of dress. The little Japanese girl is presented with an elegant one by her lover just as the English girl is given a diamond ring to wear as a pledge of her troth. Mademoiselle Jap wears her sash with great pride, ami no doubt compares it with those worn by other Japanese girls to see whose is the richest, in exactly the way practised byMiss John Bull with her engagement ring. While the sash is not likely to become a national characteristic of our dress as it is in Japan, it is, nevertheless, bound to hold sway in fashion's domain foi some time to come.

The Roman sash is not the only one worn, but it will be very modish soon, in all likelihood. Every frock that is anything at all has long, tloaling sash ends. A favourite in sashes has a decidedly looking Dresden china design. The newest Dresden riblmiis are figured with raised velvet Howers and sprays, and others are simply flowered with velvet borders and a ‘ love ’ edge finish. One of the prettiest sashes has a frilled edge. To wear with dainty, airy costumes there are the most delicate sash confections in the finest mousseline de soie, edged with a narrow frill of filmy lace and trimmed with insertion to match the edge, the insertion to match the edge, the insertion being in torn edged both sides with a frill of the lace.

These sashes have a soft wrinkled belt of ’.he mousseline, gathered at intervals, the gathering field in place by insertion and edging. The back is finished by a soft pleating of the mousseline, edged with lace, so full that it falls together and forms a graceful rosette. The deep red mousseline sashes, with bands of black insertion and lace on the long ends and frills of black lace on the edge, are very striking, and the pale blue pink, and mauve ones, treated in the same manner, witli cream-coloured lace and insertion, are truly dainty for a young girl. But the smartest are of black mousseline with double ruchingson the edge and trimming the streamers ; and the white mousselines with edgingsand insertions of cream lace.

The sash is bound to become once more a great favourite, for it certainly is a most graceful finish for the back of a dress, and often makes an ugly back quite pretty to look at, as it can be quite as well arranged to lengthen a short waist as it can to shorten one that is too long. Many of the silk sashes are showing deep, handsome, knotted fringe at the ends. This is an old-world finish for the silk sash that cannot be improved upon. HELOISE.