LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXI, Issue V, 30 July 1898, Page 157

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

L

OOKING at most of the new hats and bonnets for the winter season of 1898 we find the same brilliantlycoloured trimmings as those employed during the past summer, and similar to the models worn in the hotter months, the bright tints will be managed so artistically and with so much

nicety that there will be nothing to say in disparagement of the vivid splashes of colouring. While many of the winter novelties in millinery illustrate a single colour carried out in

shaded tones, other models show a more varied treatment. For instance, at a recent charity bazaar, where fashion and smart dressing were well to the fore, one

of the richest purchasers of various nicknacks and children's toys appearerl on the scene in one of the new satin-straw ami chenille plaited toques; the colour of this fancy plaiting being the latest cornflower blue. The accompanying velvet loops and quills were shaded oil to almost sky blue. Not far from this grande dame strolled another very elegant woman who wore an example of several hues lieautifully blended by the hand of a skilful milliner. The accompanying sketch portrays more clearly than words the chapeau alluded to. Here we have one of the latest round Parisian shapes with a fairly low crown. The hat is modelled in a lovely soft shade of ‘ dead leaf’ brown felt, almost a deep tan nuance; while the under portion of the brim is lined with velvet just a suspicion darker than the blocked cloth. Round the crown are carried out successive loops of broad torquoise-blue velvet ribbon, with here and there a paste medallion sparkling in the folds. The tuft of feathers pinned at the side is of coquet)’ plumes in their natural black, shot with green. On many of the new hats we find a large amount of torquoise-blue, this shade harmonizing very well with the latest prime colour.

Now that the dancing season is fairly on the subject of evening dress acquires immediate interest. Black skirts are still worn in the ballroom, but instead of satin being employed for the jupe, moire velvet is more generally adopted. I have inspected an extremely smart skirt of the kind, and with it will be worn at a forth-

coming ‘Cinderella’ the charming decollete blouse treated in the sketch. Here we have a most attractive novelty in buttercup yellow gathered crepe-de-chine. This deliciously soft material forms the blousette portion of the little bodice, a tiny frill of the crepe finishing off the bust-line. Made in one with this gracefully cut blouse is a short bolero of the new silk poplin, just now so fashionable both in England and across the Channel. This very abbreviated and quaintly fashioned addition is edged all round with steel beads and seed pearls, forming a neat design, a few more pearl

lieing sprinkled here ami there to enhance the whole effect of the silk. The epaulets match the small bolero; while tlie full putt's underneath are arranged with the erepe-de-cliine. Rililam, matching the poplin, draws in the fullness at the waist. This blouse could lai utilised quite as well for smart theatre as ball-room wear, as there is nothing too elaborate in either the material or design. I learn, by the way, on good authority, that the so-called dogcollars to which the Princess of Wales has always adhered —even since they went out of fashion —have been revived with wonderful up-to-date improvements. Such chains in silver are now no longer sufficiently handsome for the consideration of the woman of fashion ; but, oftener than not, they are designed with five rows of pearls, linked together by lengthway double bars of diamonds. Of course the collars are also made in plain gold, or cheaper stones to suit the requirements of those who cannot afford the luxury of pearls and diamonds.

In winter with its long evenings, spent by lamplight, few articles of indoor attire are more acceptable to the thoroughly womanly woman than a cosy softly hangng tea-gown. I know that in some of the

very smart country houses, where one party of visitors succeeds another incessantly, light silk or muslin frocks are the things to don at the five o’clock tea-table. However, for home-birds who prefer the comforts of their own houses to the very questionable delights of visiting, there can be nothing to beat the ease and grace of a well-modelled tea-gown. The especial one I have in my mind is shown in the illustration. The confection is designed in dove-coloured nun’s veiling and has a fichu of the same soft material edged with cream lace. In front, the gown is draped very artistically’. The waistband, bow, and straps round the elbow sleeves are carried ■ < i . in ribbon velvet of the loveliest tone of

• mandarine * yellow, some more laee softening the edge of the sleeves.

My last sketch is a charming winter mantle in lieaver cloth worker! all over with a scintilating design in large beads. Heaver fur collar, the whole lined with pale blue silk. Another similar cape was in dovecoloured velvet and steel lined with pale green silk.

Heloise.