LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XX, Issue XIV, 2 April 1898, Page 429

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

s IrWjWgpHe-fgZ HERE are many pretty costumes on view just gj now. But we must deal V njP?l first with head-quarters, r Up- and discuss the hat and F bonnet of the moment. I toque is much in • evidence, and is a moderate and very inW offensive head - gear which joins the borderline of hat and lionnet in a most convenient manner for mature wearers, who object to the bonnet pure and simple, but think a hat too youthful.

There are some very pretty velvet models showing now, of which I give an example. This is of grey miroir velvet undulated entirely over a moderate-sized oval net shape, and trimmed simply by a grey, black, and white bird, and white osprey on the left side. It is to be a feather, and I am sorry to add, from a humane point of view, bird winter in millinerv this year. Ostrich, and many other feathers may lie worn with a calm conscience, but wdiole

birds must of necessity have been slain for this inadequate purpose only. Seaswallows and other varieties of white and grey, and white and black birds are the demand. Imitation white birds are being shewn ; but not being so handsome or modish as the real birds, are but little bought. Pheasants’ feathers are being a good deal used for hats, and these may be indulged in without a pang, as the longtails are slaughtered whether we make scalps of their feathers or no. But good, conscientious women should eschew the poor wee innocent birds, slaughtered to make a holiday hat for thoughtless females.

Apropos, we have recently entered on halcyon days for those women who have passed their youth. But a short time ago, a woman no longer young was expected to add to the pangs of this departure of youth by assuming headgear and garments which would detract from even youth and beauty; or, if she assumed anything more attractive, she called down an avalanche of ridicule and contempt on her diminished head, and was pleasantly referred to as “ mutton in lamb’s clothing.” For a mature or elderly woman to ape the girl is, of course, a sorry sight, besides making

herself look older rather than younger by such folly ; but there are so many things she may wear out of the restricted catalogue of the wardrolie of the middleaged and elderly with such distinct advantage in making her pleasant to look upon, that this new era may lie generally hailed with delight. Provided it be strictly suitable, she may wear a hat now without comment or ridicule. This is a rational concession. A hat is warmer, more furnishing and comfortable, and far ami away more liecoming than a lionnet, which must lie worn farther back on the head. Also, if she has retained a slight youthful figure, she is no longer doomed to a nondescript mantle which would guy Hebe herself; and in all respects she is now allowed a reasonable ‘ look-in.’

Referring to mantles brings me to my second sketch. A smart model of the new anil now all-prevading Moujik jacket or blouse. This example is of olive-green cloth, lined with pink silk. It is trimmed with black caracul fur ami black braid, and gathered into the waist by an oxodised silver belt. A chic little toque lionnet of green miroir velvet, pink chrysanthemums, and black ostrich tips accompanies this jacket.

Plaids are asserting themselves a good deal—perhaps the only pronounced or assertive introduction we nave this season ; but, where the garments in general are very plain, they are far from offensive as facings, linings to coats and capes or skirts, as these latter are being lined •(half-way up, at least) most resplendently for showing when held up, and harmonising with the dainty silk pettieoats beneath.

A plaid gown, in shades of green, is the subject of my third illustration. It is made with quite plain skirt, lined with green satin, and a Moujik, or Russian blouse bodice, which is the bodice of the hour. The revers, cuffs, waistband and button are of dark green velvet. A jabot of cream mousseline-de-soie, and a green velvet bound Toreador hat with green feathers, chiffon, and pale pink poppies complete this smart toilette.

It is time to discuss peltry, and we shall soon l>e getting practical on the subject; and it is never to be left till the eleventh hour by the economical, as prices will be rapidly advancing now. In a word, it will be a great fur season, and almost every variety will l»e used.

Heloise.