ORIGIN OF LACE.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XX, Issue XIV, 2 April 1898, Page 426

ORIGIN OF LACE.

Hand-made lace has a fascinating history, says the ‘Woman’s Home Companion.’ Some have supposed that it originated in Egypt, the land that gave birth to nearly all the arts; but search diligently as you may, and you will never discover in mummy’s tomb, on sculptured or painted wall, or in in any archaeological find whatever, the pictorial or actual remains of this poetic tissue; neither is there documentary evidence of its presence there. Gauzes and nets, fine muslins ami exquisite embroideries, fringes, knotted and plaited, you may meet with frequently, but this fabric without a foundation, this ethereal textile, named by the Italians ‘punto in aria’ (stitch in air), you will never chance upon. Why? Because it did not exist

before the 15th century; because it was invented by THE EUROPEAN WOMAN, forming her contribution to the Renaissance, and was pnknown to the Orientals, who have even now no love for its pale perfection, and do not use it in their costumes nor in household decoration. Its lack of colour makes it unlovely in their eyes. Fanciful stories have been woven to account for the invention of the art, and the honour has been claimed by both Venice and Flanders. Yet it did not at once spring into being in full perfection, but was rather an evolution, and came by degrees. In ‘punto tagliato’ (cut point) we first perceive a grouping in its direction, for with the piercings of white embroidery we have a lighter effect. In drawn w-ork (‘punto tirato’) another step was gained, and in reticulated grounds or network we have a decided advantage. Upon this net the pattern was darned in, and in France it was called ‘lacis,’ the nearest word we have to lace. After these efforts came a total emancipation from all foundations, and the ‘punto in aria’ was AN ASSURED FACT. The first lace, it is thought, was made with the needle (point), the pattern being traced upon parchment or paper, and the outlines marked by a thread, caught now and then to the paper, to keep it in place. Upon this scaffolding the slight superstructure was built, and the method is still the same. Soon afterward the bobbins came in as a factor, and the needle and the bobbins remain to this day the only means employed to produce hand made lace. So that all of it resolves itself into the two generic kinds —point, which is made by the needle, and pillow, by the bobbins; or there may be a composite article made by both.