LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIX, Issue XXI, 13 November 1897, Page 669

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

r n , KAL artistes in millinery <le- _ H dare that it is '-v>AkI only those — ~ who have no z'idea of the ■ irresistible / kHU ■ ' I charm of good n TvL " fl and — above B a"—appropri(9 o 94f)*M fl ate dressing V nW B >4t *" cling to B 1 the tradition of the plain * schoollsjy ’ sailor hat trimmed with a simple band ot ribbon. Of course, this shape may l>e tolerated in the morning, or for country wear, provided the accompanying costume is “en suite.” It can be worn, for instance, with an unaffected little serge or tweed gown, or perhaps with a dust cloak or waterproof, though, after all, a ‘ Homburg ’ or ‘Deerstalker’ model generally looks better with a long serviceable mantle. One of the reasons which prompts me to thus expatiate on the “ pros ” and “ cons ” of the sailor hat is the fact of so many English girls adopting this knock-about style of “chapeau” quite indiscriminately on the Continent, thus giving foreigners the idea that our women possess not the slightest taste in millinery, or even in any detail of dress ; for, ten to one, the lady who dons her sailor shape will wear it equally as calmly with a smart sequined blouse as with a cloth coat and skirt. A very useful design to affect “en voyage,” and one which cannot excite ridicule, is the fairly broad-brimmed, round tan straw hat trimmed with a full frill of black lisse, some gold braid, and loops of light blue taffetas ribbon. For afternoon millinery, flowers are to l>e more than ever in favour. Already bright coloured corn-flowers ornament dark blue plaitings, with a draping of the new gauze “en suite.” As to the artificial roses, they are prettier than ever this season ; and the manufacturers seem to have discovered delicate tints quite unknown even last year. One of the most delightful floral hats I have

noted for some time, and of which we give the illustration, is a ‘ Parma ’ mauve shape in very coarse ‘ strawberry basket ’ straw, turned up smartly on the left side. The only trimming on this model is a long garland of tea-roses, shaded to perfection from a glowing apricot tone to the melting pink one sees in the sky at sunset. The flowers form a circular wreath where the brim is raised, and are then brought round the crown and finally pinned so as to form quite a chimp of blossoms on the left side. From the first days of spring to the thoroughly hot hours of summer, it is sometimes rather puzzling to choose an appropriate and serviceable walking costume for little girls who have passed the stage of early childhood, but who are not yet sufficiently grown up to wear clothes like those of older demoiselles. A charm-ingly-cut overall cloak in some light summer material would prove very handy for the young maidens who, with so smart an outdoor mantle, need not wear anything very weighty in the way of a frock underneath. Indeed, such a confection as the model sketched in this column quite does away with the necessity of a dress, provided the wearer has tolerably full and stitt' petticoats. This design is modelled in powder-blue alpaca, and is lined with a light surah of the same shade to just above the knees, the upper portion being perfectly innocent of any facing whatever. Four large cut steel buttons

fasten the cloak on one side ; and on the shoulder—in one with a high turned-over collar—is a fluted-shaped cajie, edged with narrow black velvet riblain. Musketeer cuffs, with the same style of trimming, finish off the “ gigot ” sleeves. For the

younger children there is the new short reefer-coat, with a hood and numerous pockets where Miss Tomboy can store away her tops, her goodies, and her dolls’ ribbons. In this pelisse the designer has, by the way, inserted a ‘slip’ pocket just under the first two buttons. I have already seen rather pretty models in walking dresses of dark blue summer serge—which has revived again with increased popularity—but in these samples I hardly cared for the white cloth revers, that certainly look “ chic,” but are so unserviceable in town. To-day’s sketch of a neat walking dress affords an excellent, suggestion for those who cannot afford to make thoughtless bargains. Here we have a dark blue serge gown trimmed rather profusely with narrow, round black mohair braid, which is planned on the skirt in such a manner that the figure is in no way shortened by this addition. The round has qued jacket is ino ne with the short waistcoat which fastens with tiny black lame buttons over another frontof cream washing silk. This is stitched on to a thin linen lining, and being separate from the remainder of the coat, can be sent to the cleaner’s without any inconvenience. Arranged inside the high collar of the jacket is a milling of ivory lisse. On dull days the cream vest might be aptly replaced by a cardinal satin front, or by one in willow green velvet; for hardly any other colour harmonizes with the dark blue. These

braided costumes require to be made very cleverly so as not to degenerate into the common style that characterizes some of the ready-made shop gowns to lie lought for a mere song. Apropos of appliques (braiding being the most general of all|, good lace is now being cut up so that the flowers maybe applied in different ways on some of the richest evening gowns. The fashion is, however, one “de luxe" and not within the means of many. The very pretty reception gown given as my concluding illustration is made of

peach - coloured silk with richly embroidered low liodice over palest green chiffon, which also forms the neek-liaiMl.