LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVIII, Issue XII, 20 March 1897, Page 365

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

UST now, according to the most reliable prophets in the matter of dress, our toilettes, both for home and promenade, are to be more handsome and more gorgeous than ever, as the winter advances. The autumnal millinery is indeed ravishing, and it must be a hopelessly plain face that is not embellished by the charming toques and large picture hats that are already on show. The shape par excellence for autumn wear is given as my first illustration. It is made of ‘ cockchafer ’ brown fancy plaiting hitched up securely with knots of rich turquoise blue velvet mixed at the back with some fine ivory lace. Another rosette is stitched to the narrow crown, which is considerably heightened and embellished by a handful of coque’s plumes—a trimming that at present vies with ostrich feathers and the paradise plumes for supremacy. By the way, in spite of all the raids organized bv good-hearted souls against the fashion of sporting aigrettes, the cruel mode still holds its own, from the croquette in fine linen and purple to Sarah on her Sunday ‘ outing.’ At the present moment the most popular

flower in the milliners’ ateliers is the chrysanthemum in all its shades, the prettiest of the many tints being that rich orange shaded to a delicate salmon pink. A bunch of these ombre blossoms pinned on one side under a widebrimmed hat, secures a wondrously ‘ fetching ’ effect, and possesses the advantage of toning in with nearly anything the wearer may choose to don in the way of throat bands —not that, to say the truth, there seems much necessity to study sartorial harmony, considering how some of the French authorities mix their colours. • • * • • • Another pretty and stylish hat is composed entirely of Parma violets, the left side being decorated by bows of shot violet ribbon and black ostrich tips ; a ruff of black chiffon round the throat having a bouquet of violets tncked in on the left side. The winged, or. as the irreverent ha\e dubbed it, horned style in millinery seems to have departed, pro tern at any rate, and all the newest headgear is trimmed on the left side only, and that with no sparing hand. Now that ermine has been once more revived for ‘ grown-ups,’ minever has naturally followed for children. The little maids look better in ermine than their seniors, for it is an uncompromising fur that very few can wear well, but minever is still more suitable to dainty little wearers. In Fig. a I give a Parisian model for a particularly smart pelisse for a child from three to ten years for wintry wear. The coat itself is of pale

green cloth, ent from the neck downward in box pleats, meeting in front ; and at the back, in Watteau or sac form. In has a small cape and cuffs of dark green velvet edged with minever. The bonnet and muff are also of

the velvet and fur, with pale green satin bows. The sleeves are Bishop cut. Evenings are drawing in, and cards will soon be flying round for dinner, soiree, dance, or theatre ; and we must not lose much time now in looking to our gowns for festive occasions, that we may be ready when the welcome summons arrive ; for a gown knocked up in a tearing hurry of this description, is always a vanity and vexation of spirit, frequently costing much more than is necessary, and of little use afterwards. To mix effectively quite as many as three or four exquisite materials in the fashioning of one bodice seems the aim of the smartest up-to-date modistes, who, of course, allow no clashing note to enter into their scheme. Fur, lisse, velvet and lace is a popular combination nowadays ; while Irish poplin, associated with chiffon, velours braiding, and a whole regiment of paste buttons is quite a pet sartorial harmony. The fabric of my third model is an extremely lustrous make of beige poplin (a soft neutral shade now much in favour with well dressed gentlewomen). The corsage is a charming harmony in glossy velvet, lisse, passementerie, medallions, and poplin ; but, of course, it requires detailing to make it verily interesting. The ‘ cyclamen ’ mauve velvet forms

a deep rucked band, which fastens tightly on the left under a bow of small closely-set paste buttons. Over this comes a bolero of the poplin outlined with silk braid, matching the ceinture, and ornamented with ‘ key ' designs in passementerie of the same pretty flower colour. The little coat opens over a draped waistcoat in very faint blue lisse, which forms a large bow by way of completion. Quite next to the throat is a ruffling of cream lace that droops gracefully over a tight neckband of the velvet. The sleeve is thoroughly French and not at all owfr<‘ in design.

Heloish.