LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVI, Issue XIII, 28 March 1896, Page 364

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

URR. pussy, purr. For we are beginning to think of soft furs, which are so cosy for you to cuddle on. But first to hats. The majority of these very flyLB ‘ away chapeaux, well tilted over '■AE the brow and turned up boldly ■ i at the back, hardly suits the Kill Si ordinary sweet English face. B J. especially as for the most part I | our smart English girls dress " their hair in the neat stvle

adopted by the Princess of Wales, and not in the loose waved bandeaux affected by everv second woman one meets in Paris. Something

more of the ' picture ’ character suits the ‘ Fair Daughters of Albion ’ much better. Here is a delightful shape in grey-blue felt, curved in a manner to exactly suit the features beneath. The only trimming on this very picturesque confection, which will be warmly welcomed

on the first crisply cold days is a generous clump of black ostrich feathers, falling most gracefully about the crown, a couple standing up erect some way above the others. I cannot warrant the success of the latest toque

made of wired chenille in two colours, with a large bow of glace ribbon repeating the two shades.

My second sketch is a most useful fichu made of sprigged net or chiffon, edged with graduated flounces of lace or embroidered muslin. The two ends are made to cross at the waist under a ribbon belt. It is a charming addition to a velvet or satin dress, or over a dark material, giving it a summer look.

A feminine coat is no longer synonymous with hard, uncompromising lines and a perfect lack of the beautiful and picturesque, especially the jacket according to our sketch, which has been inspired at the great ‘ Trilby ’ source. The name of George du Manner’s sympathetic heroine being already famous throughout the literarv and theatrical world, and ‘Trilby’ feet and ‘Trilby’ hands being the order of the day, it is but appropriate we should follow the current of the times and illustrate a smart little coat, built, though with decided and numerons improvements, on the same lines as the quaint garment in which ‘ La Grande Trilbv’ puts in her initial appearance. Here we have a delightful confection com-

posed of habit cloth in a discreet shade of grij-iiurfe, but cut so jauntily and so closely to the figure and treated with so charming a touch of fin-de-siecle femininity that this ‘ Jacquette « la Trilby ’ only carries out the prettiest features of the original affair. Having stated the material, we may proceed to mention that this cloth is lined throughout with buttercup surah silk, shot with pearl. The double row of buttons down the front are smoked ones in nacre ; while the flat epaulettes or ‘ Jockies, ’ are outlined with gold cord. Some more of this trimming, in a rather narrower quality, gives a trim military finish to the ‘ Musketeer ’ cuffs and cloth belt, two lines of the same garniture edging the stiff high collar quite soldierly in cut. This will be a little jacket welcomed ■/ brag ouvert-s by those in quest of something new, something unique, ai d something that will make people remark. ‘ What a smartly-dressed girl.’

The wondrous gowns in ‘ Cheer Boys Cheer ' at Drury Lane are attracting enormous attention. And no wonder, considering they were principally designed by Worth, though some were planned and executed in London. It is from the English capital that the magnificent evening gown worn by Miss Fanny Brough in the

COSTUMES WORN IN ACT IV. OF ‘CHEER BOYS CHEER.'

fourth act emanates. I here give an illustration of this charming frock, carried out most effectively in pale mauve satin with bunches and trails of gigartie violet pansies fading off from this deep rich colour to a faint tone of heliotrope. At the back there is a Watteau train, while in front and round the hips is some exquisite white lace glittering with steel spangles. In the same scene Miss Calhoun scores marked success

with her black crepe gown built a la prineesse and simply smothered in a shower of jet points. The actress's fine bust and shoulders are displayed to perfection above the band of jet passementerie and in contrast to bands on the arms. There is a pretty apology for a sleeve in the shape of triple frills of ac-cordeon-pleated net. a diamond buckle fastening them to the jet straps. Amongst the most admired of the gowns designed by the great sartorial artiste of the Rue de la Paix, is Mrs Cecil Raleigh’s last toilette in black satin richly embroidered with jet spangles. The corsage is quite unique, being half in the handsomely sequined Duchesse, and half in white net dotted with silver sequins. Some glossy sable-hued ostrich plumes, broad hoops of black satin ribbon, and a small quantity of costlv cream lace, deftly introduced, complete a perfect triumph in black and white. Hbloisb.