A HOME IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVI, Issue II, 11 January 1896, Page 28

A HOME IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

(BY

EMILY S. LOUD.)

ORE than twenty years ago, my husband

and I were living at Tahiti, Society Islands. My husband's business rendered it necessary for him to make frequent trips among the islands of the South Pacific and upon one of his voyages to the Pomotu * Islands adverse winds drove his vessel far to the north-west of his course. Sighting a small group of islands in this unfrequented part of the ocean, he landed there and found that although covered with vegetation the islands appeared to be uninhabited. Upon his return to Tahiti he made inquiries about them, but as they were out of the track of vessels visiting the larger groups of islands, no one seemed to know anything of them. It occurred to him, however, that could he get a lease of the largest island which seemed to be well covered with cocoanut trees and manufacture copra (dried cocoanut), for the European and American markets, and also raise pigs and poultry for the Tahiti market, the result would be a pecuniary success with but little risk, as the expense of living there would be very small. The first step was to get a lease of the island from Queen Pomare to whose realm it undoubtedly belonged : and very proud we felt when the important document, giving EXCLUSIVE CONTROL OF THE ISLE OF MOEMOTf, (isle of rest), as we afterwards named it, with all its products of ten years came into our possession. My husband then bought fifty pigs and a hundred chickens and commenced loading his vessel with stores, tools, and building material, while I tried to think of and collect everything that might be needfu’ in a place where there was no store or neighbour, as we did not intend leaving the island, until the time came to take our products to market. At last we were ready to sail, and took our departure for our promised land accompanied by two young native boys who had been in my husband's employ for some time. For four davs our little vessel danced over the blue waters, and then early in the morning of the fifth day my husband called me. for we were nearing our destined port. The sun had just risen, and in the distance the mirrored surface of the water was broken bv sheets of spray, outlining the reef that encircled our island, while as we came nearer, fitful glimpses of green foliage and stately cocoanut palms grew visible, and vast flocks of noisy sea birds came hovering around our vessel as tf to welcome ns to our new home.

XVe sailed around the island until we found a good landing place, and then while the captain and the natives were occupied with the ship I scrambled up the reef, as it was low tide, and walked over to the shore. The jagged edges of the coral that composed the reef made walking rather a difficult matter, and the innumerable hollows in the reef, which the receding tide had left filled with water demanded constant watchfulness, as a misstep would have involved wet feet, if nothing more serious. When I finally reached the shore, the loveliness and fertility of the scene filled me with wonder and admiration. accustomed though I was to the beauties of tropica', landscape. Perhaps the sense of personal possession heightened the charm, but the air certainly was remarkably pure and exhilarating, and the bright sunshine instead of oppressing me seemed to stimulate every facultv to unwonted energy. EVEN THE NATIVE BOYS SEEMED TO THROW OFF THEIR NATURAL INDOLENCE, and came forward with alacrity to help remove the cargo, and assist the captain in constructing a temporary shelter until he should find time to put together the frame building which we had brought with us in section? from Tahiti. We agreed upon a site for our future residence, and then, wishing to explore our new domain. I left the others and strolled away to a gentle rise of ground covered with panJatus trees. The undergrowth was so luxuriant and there were so many beautiful ferns and vines to admire, that I did not look up until I had passed quite over the elevation and walked some distance beyond. A slight noise attracted my attention and glancing ahead of me, I discovered several natives, who having seen us land were on their way to interview us. Although like the Tahitians, they had straight black hair, large dark eyes, well-shaped features and erect forms, their complexions were considerably darker ami

the expression of their faces more stern and savage. They were naked with the exception of waist cloths of t»ppa .native cloth of pounded bark' and the oldest ones were elaborately tattooed. They all carried huge spears and their sudden appearance caused me great alarm, for instances of cannibalism were known to have taken place on these distant islands within recent times. With the knowledge of this fact flashing through my mind, mingled with the realizing sense of our remoteness from aid, I hastened back to tell my husband that, contrary to our suppositions, we had leased an inhabited island, and that the consequences of our invasion might

be most disastrous. The savages, who had followed on closely after me, were now within speaking distance. My husband’s intercourse with natives of different islands had made him familiar with their language, and our native boys supplied any deficiency he had in making himself understood. In spite of their warlike appearance, however, they proved to be most friendly, and said that their home was on a neighbouring island. They had come to Moemotu several days before, with the intention of gathering cocoanuts for copra. But when the captain showed them his lease of the island, they conferred together aside for a few moments, and then re-

turning proposed that they should remain ami work for him. There were seven of them, and three had brought their wives, and one a daughter also, the women being then at their houses on the other side of the island. The captain, believing that he could make their services useful, acceded to their proposition ; and thus, instead of being alone, we found ourselves at the head of a colon} from the start. That afternoon, we had the men tie cocoanut leaves around the trunks of some of the trees nearest the ocean.

about six feet from the ground, to show that they were tabooed ; that is. set apart as private property, the nuts to be gathered only by the owners, so that any other islanders coming in their canoes would know that the fruit was claimed, and as natives very rarely violate the fciAoo, we were not likely to be disturbed further in taking possession of our kingdom. Although MV EXPEDITION ABOUT THE ISLAND WAS THUS CUT SHORT by the unlooked-for appearance of the natives, subse-

quent explorations showed us that Moemotu was a low coral island, about seven and a-half miles long and one and a-half miles wide, lying north and south. The land was about twelve feet above the sea level, and well wooded, many of the trees being from eighty to one hundred feet high. Beside the large plantation of cocoanut trees, the tamana toa burau, and pandanus trees grew abundantly, the latter perfuming the air for miles, when in blossom. The fragrance of these pale yellow pandanus flowers is so sweet and strong that sailors, when many miles away, know, even on the darkest night, that they are approaching the Pomotu Islands by the odour-laden

breeze. There is also another species of/xindoM>/.«, called the mat tree, the leaves of which are used by the natives for making mats, and which differs from the other by having neither flowers nor fruit. It is propagated by means of shoots from the root or stem. The natives use the leaves of the flowering pandaunt, ten and twelve feet long, for thatching their houses. They cut away the prickly edges and midriff, soak the leaves in water until they are pliable, and then doubling them over a long reed, sew them with the stiff midriff of the

cocoanut leaf, them with little sticks. Carefully made, the thatch will last for ten or twelve vears. The /OMdaMua is the first tree to make its appearance on these low islands. Pushing itself up among the rocks and sands, it covers them with verdure and grows and multiplies very rapidly, although it is impossible to see whence it derives its nourishment. But from the time it has covered the island with its thick toliage and fruit, which falling, enriches the ground mixed with the broken coral, other vegetation follows The interior lands near the lagoon are generallv most fertile.

The hosts of robber crabs (deriving their name from their depredations on cocoanut trees i were something mar veilous. Whenl saw the large numbers of them sleeping in the branches and hollow stumps of the trees, on the day we landed, I feared for the success of the poultry part of our venture ; for the pluckiest hen would stand no chance with one of these crabs, which frequently measure nearly three feet in length, and have claws four or five inches wide that are powerful enough to break a man s arm. The robber crab always sleeps through the day. and at night starts out for its food. It prefers cocoanuts, and climbs the highest trees with great swiftness. Throwing down the ripe nuts, it descends, and inserting one claw into the single eye of the cocoanut. it breaks off pieces of the hard shell until it gets at the kernel. Sometimes after getting the claw inside the nut, the crab pounds it on a stone and breaks the shell. These crabs make excellent eating and are easilv caught at night when feeding, for at that time they pay but little attention to anything but their food. The tail is particularly nice, being one mass of pale green fat. which tastes like the most delicious marrow.

M ith so many hands to help us, we were soon settled. The natives had already built their houses on the shores of the lagoon ; the thatched roofs of pandanus resting on rows of burau stakes set in the ground about two inches apart, and arranged in oval form, with an opening for the door. At night a mat was hung before this opening. The ground floor of the houses were leveled off smooth , and some dry grass scattered over one end where thev placed their sleeping mats. As soon as we were settled, the captain and the men attended to the collection of the sources of revenue, while I, assisted by the women, looked after the affairs of the household and planted a vegetable and flowe garden. The results in the garden line were most won derful. Everything seemed to grow as if by magic, and the old fairy tale of * Jack and the Bean Stalk ' often came to my mind as I witnessed the rapid development of everything we planted. Sweet potatoes. Indian corn. taro, and melons were ready for our table in an incredibly short time. But I was disappointed at the deterioration of these products of the ground, when we replanted with seeds raised on the island. The vegetables were coarse and without flavour, and I found that it would be necessary to procure fresh seed from abroad at every sowing time.

We obtained fresh water by digging holes in the sand, but it was rather brackish, and although the captain set up the water casks from the vessel to catch rain water, we used the water thus procured mostly for cooking, bathing and washing purposes : and for a beverage, drank the water of young cocoanuts, a most delicious substitute. When the cocoanut is young, the hollow kernel is of the consistence of a soft custard, and filled with a cool refreshing liquid that tastes like mild lemonade. When a little older, the water is absorbed in part bv the kernel which thickens and forms an excellent article of food, very different, however, from the hard meat of the ripe cocoanut which alone is known to strangers to the home of this delicious fruit. Every animal seems fond of the unripe nuts. Eowls eat them with aviditv. and I have seen dogs, cats and even horses, eat the tempting, snow v substance with an air of keen relish. Every night we would have a number of green cocoa nuts gathered for use the next day. and it was wonderful to observe the celerity with which one of the young natives would climb the tallest trees ; sometimes with a strip of bark tied around his ankles, upon which he would rest alternately with his knees, and oftener without any aid. just clinging with his big toe spread out on the roughness made by the rings of growth on the tree. Tapping a nut. he could tell its stage of growth bv the sound it gave, and with a dexterous whirl would throw it to the ground without breaking it. I began to notice after a while that the nut gathering for me was all done by Otoo. a fine-looking young native who always seemed to be near at hand when the help of a man was needed in house or garden. The attraction I soon found to be Ina. the young daughter of old Mahiti, who was always with me. Even aside from propinquity, which is responsible for the successful termination of so many love affairs, I did not blame Otoo for preferring to help us women instead of doing my husband’s work, when it gave him the opportunity of gazing into Ina's

aughing eyes, and admiring the coquettish arrangement of the tappa mantle, which, fastened on one shoulder, dropped gracefully down to her knees, and the bright garland of flowers that always adorned her proud little head. But she appeared to give him but little encouragement, and although, woman-like, I should like to have seen the romance brought to a happy conclusion, it seemed to me that Otoo’s devotion and good looks were entirely thrown away on his brunette lady love. In vain did he present her with lovely shells, climb the scarlet hibiscus tree for its gorgeous flowers, and spend his evenings making snares to catch the wild tropic bird for its two long tail feathers of blood red ; which, considered sacred in the olden times as offerings to the gods, and worn as ornaments by chiefs only, are still highly prized for their rarity and loveliness, although their sanctity is gone. Vainly also did he attire himself in a most gorgeous, large figured pareu (a piece of foreign calico two yards long and about a yard wide which was wound around the waist and hung a little below the knees), thinking that were he apparelled in European goods he would appear more attractive in her sight. Ina accepted his presents, ridiculed his dress, and treated his most serious advances with laughing banter, until a most ludicrous adventure, as it turned out, brought the little coquette to terms. Otoo had been using a heavy hammer one day at some distance from the house, and while returning with it was carelessly swinging it around in the air when it flew from his hand and dropped down into the hollow stump of an old tree. It happened that an immense robber crab was sleeping in the stump, and at this rude awakening all its ferocity was aroused. Otoo thinking only of the hammer, put his hand down into the hole to get it, when the crab seized him with one of its claws, and then, struggling half out of the hollow, reached around the stump and seized Otoo with the other claw, thus holding him fast. The more Otoo struggled the closer the crab held him, and fearing that it would bite his hand severely, as they often do when excited, he screamed with all his force for assistance. As Ina heard his piercing cries, she turned a ghastly yellow, and giving a most heart-rending shriek, flew to the relief of her imprisoned hero. My husband and two of the men also rushed to the spot, and as the crab’s abdomen was exposed, half out of the hollow, he pierced it with his knife, when the crab quickly relaxed its hold and Otoo fortunately escaped without being bitten. Poor Otoo ! When the danger was over I could not help laughing to myself as I thought of the comical tableau presented to our view when we first reached the scene. The picturesque old stump over run with trailing vines, Otoo’s nearly naked brown body pressed closely against it, his eyes starting out of their sockets with fright as he struggled in the awkward embrace of the cold-blooded robber crab, formed such an incongruous spectacle, added to the ridiculous means taken to end his peril, and the sudden collapse of the crab when he felt the centre of his being attacked that I could never look back upon the event without the old disposition to laugh. Ina, however, had unmistakably revealed the true state of her heart towards Otoo, and like a wise man he followed up his advantage so promptly that the captain promised them a wedding as soon as the copra they were then collecting should be packed ready for shipping. The blossom of the young palm is most striking. In a strong, pointed sheath three feet long, is enclosed a tall spike, covered with small white blossoms, male and female flowers. When the sheath bursts open, its contents present the appearance of an immense sheaf of large ripe grain, and, seen for the first time, strikes one with wonder and admiration. After the captain’s promise in regard to the wedding, Otoo developed into a most diligent worker, and Ina herself was not idle. Thinking to please her, I gave her a pretty wedding gown of white muslin. We had reckoned, however, without Mahiti, who would not consent to Ina’s being married in anything but a garment of native cloth. So resolute was the old woman, that, taking Ina with her, much to Otoo’s discomfort, she embarked in a canoe, went to the island from whence they came, and returned in triumph with a boatload of slender branches of the paper-mulberry tree. Soaking them in water for a couple of days, the bark and inner fibre were easily peeled from the branches, and after another day’s soaking, the outside bark was carefully scraped off with a shell, leaving the inner fibre. This was rolled up lengthwise and soaked for another day, causing the fibre to swell and toughen. It was then put on a thick board, and beaten out with small wooden mallets. Fibres were constantly added, and if the cloth became thin in places, it was doubled over and spread equally until it was not liable to break. When finished, it was pliable, and looked like heavy tissue paper. Mahiti went over it very carefully at the last, with a

coating of Bread Fruit tree gum, and bleached it until it was of a snowy whiteness. . Mahiti had also brought back with her from her old home some fine mats, new pillows stuffed with tree cotton, and covered with soft-finished, large-figured cal’co, and two quilts made of the same gorgeous calico used for vareus, lined and bound with white calico; these, with calabashes and cooking utensils, completed the housefurnishing of the young couple. Otoo, with the assistance of his friends, had built a new fare (native house) at odd moments, and everything was ready for our first wedding on the island. Preparations had beeu made for a grand feast, and then we were all to go in boats to another island in our group, twenty miles distant, for a picnic. But another difficulty arose. Although the feast was the chief part of the wedding ceremony to all the natives, Ina refused to have our native preacher perform the ritual part of the service, and desired my husband to act in that capacity. This was repugnant to my ideas of the sanctity of the marriage rite, and I would not consent to it. Happily, a compromise was effected, by the Captain suggesting that we start early in the morning on our picnic, and then while we were at sea, he could legally perform the ceremony, and upon our return from the island in the afternoon, we could enjoy the wedding banquet. Everything happened as it was planned, and Ina’s father and another man returned to Moemotu to prepare the dinner. Meanwhile, the rest of ns, in high spirits, continued our trip to the stranger island. I was the first to land, and had proceeded but a few steps before I stopped to pluck a spray of flowers from a shrub which was unlike any species I had seen before. Instantly, Mahiti, who was following me, exclaimed in a serious tone :

‘ Now the big wave will come, and the sea will roar over the reef!’ I remembered then to have heard of a belief of the old natives, that when visiting an island which is not their home, if a branch is broken off or anything eaten before the whole party lands, the ocean will rise suddenly and sweep over the reef. Both my husband and I laughed at Mahiti for her superstition, but, strange to say, soon after we got ashore an immense wave rushed over the reef and washed far up on the land, dashing our boats against the sharp coral, and in its ebb nearly carried them out to sea. The captain said it was some natural disturbance of the water, but I could see that Mahiti’s lingering belief in her old gods was strengthened by the coincidence, and it made her garrulous to the extent of her relating several legends of the old times to me, as we two sat under the shade of a banyan tree, resting after a long stroll about the island and waiting for the others to join us in a luncheon before starting for home. The island which we were visiting possessed the same general characteristics as Moemotu, but was much smaller. The land, however, was higher, and there were some different species of trees —the banyan, one or two candle-nut, and mape or chestnut trees, evidently planted by some former visitant to the island. The captain thought there might be some pearl oysters in the lagoon, and sent one of the men to dive for them. These natives have a curious manner of diving. Instead of entering the water head foremost as do the people of other countries, they generally jump into the water, striking it with their feet first, and then turning over in the water, strike downward or swim. He was not very successful in finding oysters, but did not make many attempts, as we wished to return home in good season.

We returned home and the succeeding week was spent in turtle hunting, fishing and other recreations, and then the sprouted cocoanuts for our young plantation were set out. Other occupations and improvements followed, and day by day passed in an uneventful tenor, until a year had elapsed from the day of our landing on the fertile Island of Moemotu. The poultry and pigs had so increased innumber, and the amount of gathered copra was so large, that my husband began to talk of a trip to Tahiti to dispose of our accumulations.

But events were shaping themselves for an entire change in our lives, and the days of our sojuru beneath tropical skies were already numbered.

'Pahi! Pahi Ahio na He pahi (A ship 1 A ship See the ship!) cried the natives one morning, scanning the horizon with the deepest interest. At first I could see merely a faint speck, but the speck changed to an oblong, and after a while we could plainly see the masts of a small schooner that was evidently bearing straight for Moemotu. There was a fresh wind blowing towards the shore, and the little vessel came briskly on. We saw that she was manned by three native boatmen and two Europeans. The gentlemen landed, and my husband went forward to meet them. They proved to be agents of a large English guano firm, and were visiting different islands in the South Pacific, in search of guano deposits.

As soon as I learned their mission, I returned to the house to prepare a nice dinner for our visitors, with a

feeling of superior wisdom at the idea of these men visiting lovely Moemotu in search of such an ill-smelling thing as guano. The gentlemen assembled in our sit-ting-room, and one of them, opening a box which he was carrying, took out an alcohol lamp, a crucible and some small bottles of chemicals. Lighting the lamp and placing it under the crucible, some of the earth was put in and different liquids. It was but a few moments before turning to the others who were watching him with great interest, he said : ‘ Yes, as I suspected, this island contains a good quality of guano.’ Here, then, was the secret of the verdant vegetation and the marvellous rapidity of growth of flowers and vegetables! While my husband and our guests were walking around the island, I could but think how mysterious it seemed, that while civilized countries had been sowing and reaping their harvests year after year, and exhausting the fertility of their soil, here amid these lonely isles of the South Pacific, unknown to the world but

little more than a century ago, wild birds, fish, and the tiny coral polyps had been slowly but surely working together for ages to form a life-giving compound which should stimulate and revivify their worn-out lands. Thus the isles of the sea are invaded by civilised man, not only for their fruits but even for the very soil that nourishes their life-sustaining trees.

When the gentlemen returned, my husband told me that so well satisfied were our visitors with the result of their investigations, that they wished to purchase our lease, giving us a good royalty for the possession of the island. At first it was hard for me to think of giving up our peaceful home to which I had become so fondly attached. But my husband’s recent illness had caused him to look upon our future in a different light ; and the apprehension that he might at any time be suddenly taken away, leaving me alone on that remote island, had caused him many anxious hours. An opportunity was now presented us to return to our old home in England and live in comparative ease, and he urged me to agree with him in accepting it. Reason conquered sentiment, and I consented to the proposition of the agents, requesting only that our removal might be postponed for a short time, to which they agreed.

The company wished to commence operations at once, but there was room enough for all of us, and the following week saw them return with a larger vessel containing all needful apparatus, more native labourers and two horses. They erected a house for themselves, containing, besides the necessary living rooms, a laboratory, in which was an array of crucibles, retorts, bottles of acids and chemicals a brick furnace, and bags of earth from other islands, which they had collected to test for guano.

Together with our own native men there were twentyfive labourers engaged in collecting and separating the guano. Raking up the earth in large heaps, they screened it in the same manner as fine coal is separated from the coarse. The screens were about eight feet by three feet and covered with a fine iron netting. This allowed the fine portion of the earth, which was the guano, to pass through, while the coral was left in the screens. The guano was then sacked, ready for shipping

to Hamburg, whence it would be reshipped to different parts of Europe. When the time of our departure drew near, Ina and Otoo seemed almost heartbroken, and the expressions of grief from all our native friends proved how strongly attached they had become to us. We had treated them justly, sympathised with them in their different plans and enjoyments, and the captain had always been to them a friend as well as an employer. We had won in return anunselfih, disinterested affection, which prompted them to even offer to go with us to our new home. Years have passed since the cocoanut palms and feathery spray that fringed our island home faded from our view on the morning that we heard the last faorana (the universal salutation for every good wish) from our native friends. Once since then, when visiting a picture gallery in London, I saw a group of people surrounding a celebrated picture of tropical island scenery. Critics commented in glowing terms upon its charms, and as I joined the throng that viewed it with admiring eves, time and distance fled. The lovely tints, the sleeping waters, the motionless birds, the feathery foliage, the art that attracts and delights were thine, oh, hanging picture ; but for me, the flowers exhaled their fragrance, the birds became tuneful, the leaves trembled in the light breeze which softly agitated the transparent water ; and from beneath the shadows of the trees, Ina’s laughing face peeped into mine, for the sense of life and movement belonged to my regretful memories of thee, oh lovely Isle of Moemotu.