OUR ILLUSTRATIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, 18 December 1895, Page 21

OUR ILLUSTRATIONS.

PANORAMIC VIEWS OF CHRISTCHURCH AND LYTTELTON. CHRISTCHURCH, the City of the Plains, and the capital of the provincial district of Canterbury, is invariably singled out by travellers and tourists as the most English place in the colony. Globe-trotters, whether they be nobodies like the majority, or ‘ lions ’ like Christie Murray, Villiers, and Max O'Rell, almost always remark that, though not perhaps the most beautiful city in the colonies, Christchurch must be far the most pleasant from a residential point of view. Eight miles distant from Lyttelton, its port, of which more anon, Christchurch occupies an area of about a square mile exclusive of the reserve made for recreation, which is included in the city boundary, and which increases its size about half as much again. Its streets are laid out in parallel lines, and are named after English Bishoprics. A very extensive and verv complete drainage scheme has been adopted at a cost of /.'i30,000, and so well has this succeeded that the city is the healthiest in the colony. Our panorama is taken from the Cathedral, and looks over the south side of the square. The main street seen in the centre of the picture is Coiombo street. It runs due south to the Port Hills, and contains many fine shops and business premises. On the right corner of this sheet we see Morton’s Buildings, one of the finest blocks of buildings in the city. Like the Bank of New Zealand on the opposite corner, this building runs through into Hereford-street. Further along to the right are the offices of the National Mutual Life, and the New Zealand Insurance Companies. The large red brick building on the right of the picture is the Post Office, and in the same building there are various Government offices, etc. Ontheleftof Coiombostreet is, as has been mentioned, the Bank of New Zealand, the entrance being on the other side of the building in Hereford-street. Next come some land agents' offices, and then the offices of the well-known firm of Dalgety. Towards the middle distance on the left hand of the picture may be seen St. Paul’s Church. The Cathedral, of which Christchurch people are os justlj- proud, is shown in a pretty medallion between two views of Lyttelton. Mr Mountfort has been the architect in charge, but the original designs were drawn up by Mr B. W. Mouutfort. The spire is a famous land

mark, and can be seen for miles either by land or sea. The height is 202 feet—the same as the monument in King William-street, London.

SCENERY ON THE WANGANUI. Weird is the wonderland, grand and impressive are the fiords and southern sounds, noble and awe-inspiring the Alps, but the student of New Zealand scenery, tourist be he, or more fourtunate still, resident, cannot but confess that of the many enchanted hours spent in admiration of nature in this very paradise of lovely scenery, none were more enchanted than those spent on the swiftly coursing Wanganui or its tributaries. To attempt to do justice to the beauties of this river, and to the alternating grandeur and sylvan beauty cf the scenery through which it winds its way, would need an exceedingly bold and self-confident pen. The beauties of Wanganui river scenery have frequentlybeen eulogised, and by the ablest descriptive writers, but none have ever done complete justice to their unique loveliness. Thanks, however, to artistic photography, it is possible to give pictorially what one must despair of doing with the pen. Our engraving is from a series of photos by Mr A. Martin, of Wanganui, mounted and arranged by Mr C. Kerry, a well-known New Zealand artist. The first view, in the left-hand corner, is a typical view of the scenery to be found on the Wanganui River and some of its tributaries. This view is in the neighbourhood of the Manganui O te-au, where it joins the Wanganui. The centre picture—one of the most admirable photos we have ever seen—shows a rapid which is celebrated by the Maoris for its dangerous character. Like a good many other dangerous things—lovely woman to wit—it is exceedingly innocent and seductive to look upon. In the lower left hand corner we are given a grand view of the Wanganui river. It has been christened * the drop scene,’ because it forms the entrance to the grander scenery to be found above Pipiriki on the Wanganui and in the vicinity. Next to this, below the central view, is a pretty picture of the hot springs at Kaiwaroa, 40 miles up the river. A magnificent weeping willow (one of thousands planted by the missionaries) overhangs the pool, in which a most refreshing bath may be had. and the dusky proprietor, with his picaninnies supply the scene with the requisite human interest. Next to this, in the right hand lower corner, we see another of the exquisite bends in the river which call forth the admiration of all fortunate enough to make the tour. This particular bend is near Pipiriki, of Maori war fame. The illustration above is of one of the caves which abound in the splendid cliffs above Pipiriki on the Wanganui and Mangani O-te-au.

The cliffs are from one hundred to two hundred feet high, and in one of the caves there is a waterfall twenty-five feet high.

A MAORI PASTIME. The spirited picture which we reproduce elsewhere, from the pencil of Mr Kenneth Watkin, gives a good idea of a favourite pastime of the Maori youths and maidens in the ‘ good old times.’ The Maori swing or moari was generally to be found in every native village, usually near a stream of water or a small lake, and it was a queer source of amusement to the young people. The moari was often a tree stripped of its branches (as shown in the picture, or was formed by placing a long tapering rickey or spar firmly on some rising ground, and sometimes, for love of peril on the brink of a precipice. A number of flax ropes, according to the size of the tree or the spar, were fastened to the top of it, usually one below the other at intervals of a foot, and from these the people would swing, grasping the rope in their hands, and then running swiftly round and swinging off into the air over the sloping ground, river, or cliff as the case might be. Then as each person let go the tnoart, being relieved from theweight.spraugmore erect, causing the individual yet revolving in the air to be lifted higher with a jerk, and experiencing a feeling as if the ropes were being dragged out of their hands. Serious accidents often used to occur. Some romantic tragedies occurred in connection with these swings. One is still pointed out at the secluded native village of Wahi, on Lake Taupo 1 where a great Kingiti meeting is to be held next year), where a Maori girl, crossed in love, swung out over a rockv river bed and threw herself on the stones and was killed. Another somewhat similar incident is related by Lieutenaut-Colonel T. McDonnell in his ‘Tales of the Maori.’ In this tale told by the Colonel ‘a native moari, claimed to be one of the tallest ever known (it was in the North, near Hokianga), had ten ropes attached to it, and was situated near a precipice that overlooked a mountain torrent which hissed and dashed wildly over huge black-looking rocks and boulders. No accident had hitherto occurred from using this celebrated moari; perhaps the reason of this was that few dared stand the jerk of the outer ropes as the inner swingers landed. A handsome young girl named Takiri. who was betrothed to a young chief named Te Whetu, was amongst those who went to swing on the occasion of a great feast.’ She was jealous of other women, and thought her love was not returned, it seemed, and when all alighted from the swing but her, she carried a tragic intention which she had formed into effect. ' The moari, relieved from the weight of the others, straightened

with a spring, when at that instant the poor girl cried, •• Farewell, tribe ! Farewell, Te Whetu ! Here’s for the Reinga ! Haere ake and relaxing her hold she, as from a catapult, was hurled away and dashed out of all form on to the rocks beneath. Te Whetu went straight to his I'-hart, closed the door, and shot himself dead with his double barrelled gun, pulling the trigger with his foot. After this the swing was cut down and the settlement was deserted for many years.’ QUEEN’S DRIVE, WELLINGTON. The Queen's Drive. Wellington, was constructed during the winter of 1894 out of a fund subscribed by citizens of Wellington and a Government subsidy of pound for pound. The originators of the idea were Messrs John Ross, T. J. W. Gale, and McLennan. These gentlemen started the subscription lists which met with such ready and such generous support. Property-holders along the proposed route gave land where they could. Citizens subscribed /"i.ofis, upon which the Government paid a subsidy of Z. 1,277. The City Council voted Z5OO, to which the Government again added a similar sum. The Melrose Borough, which has jurisdiction over much of the route, voted /.25, which was also subsidised by the same sum from the Government. Thus were the sinews of war provided and the work begun. Altogether / 2,903 was paid in wages, in materials, X 33 in survey fees, and /19 in sundries. The project proved a great success, and has been imitated in various parts of the colony. The Drive itself is delightful. It is about six miles round. The visitor bowls along Oriental Bay and the harbour shores to Evan's Bay. Beautiful views are obtained of the harbour and shipping, with Somes Island in the middle distance, and the Hutt valley stretching away up to the Rimutakas, and the snowclad Tararuas in the far distance. Along the shores of Evan’s Bay it continues right to the head of the estuary, past the pretty village of Kilburnie, and now the drive proper is entered. Making straight along the bottom of the hills, it is now running parallel with the rock-bound shores of Cook Strait, passing beautiful cliff and coast scenery, and past the famous cave wherein the hermit resides, and so on to Island Bay. Along the drive cottages are beginning to appear, to which Wellingtonians retire in summer to enjoy the fresh sea breeze. At Island Bay there is an hotel much resorted to by holiday-makers. Once past it the road stretches inland up a narrow valley, till it reaches Neatown, an outlying and populous suburb of Wellington, and so the drive continues towards the city itself. The fine series of sketches we give depict the characteristic bits of the drive, and give some idea of the new pleasure resort for which Wellington has to thank the initiative of Messrs Ross and Gale. THE GREAT WAITAKEREI FALLS. New Zealand can probably boast as many beautiful and majestic waterfalls as any country in the world, and the Auckland province has its share of both the beautiful and the grand. The roaring Huka Falls are certainly an admirable example of the latter, while there are few waterfalls, not merely in the colony, but in the world which can surpass in exquisite beauty the • Great Waitakerei ’ Fall represented in the engraving on 2nd

page The latter part of the road to the falls from Auckland passes through some lovely scenery, and ascending the ranges exquisite views of the country side round Auckland are obtained. About two miles from the falls all conveyances and horses must be abandoned and the way picked on foot through a winding bush track, where every turning seems to bring to light some new beauty and surprise. Over fallen trunks of great trees, by rich bowers of splendid ferns and graceful nikaus, and through an ever present tangle of supplejack, the rough track leads, till at last the top of the fall is reached, and the enchanted spectator looks down on a scene of such delicate and surprising beauty that it produces a catch of the heart and breath, and makes speech an impossibility for a moment or so. But fine as is the view from above, that from the foot of the falls, whence our picture is taken is finer still. The descent must be made by what is termed ‘Jacob’s ladder.’ It is exceedingly steep, and in places precipitous, and should be only undertaken by ladies when escorted by the inferior male with strong right arms ready for emergencies. With ordinary care there is no danger, and numerous picnic parties descend. In fact, each summer photographers carry their cameras, for the spot is a favourite one with the photographic fiend. Looking up, the prospect is the perfection of what a waterfall of the beautiful type should be. On the summit of the cliff one or two giant kauris tower heavenward, and the prec’pitous slopes on either side of the falls are clothed in all the glorious luxuriance of New Zealand virgin bush. No pen can do justice to the beauty of the scene. Mr Kenneth Watkins, whose drawing is reproduced, has caught the effect wonderfully, and a single glance at the picture conveys far better idea of the great Waitakerei than a column of letterpress.

WEST COAST SCENERY. PEEPS AT MAHINAPUA AND KANIERI. When a visitor arrives at Auckland, he is always asked if he has been up Mount Eden, at New Plymouth if he has seen the recreation grounds, at Christchurch whether he has visited the museum, and at Hokitika, the first question invariably asked is, have you been up to the Lakes ’ meaning Lakes Mahinapua and Kanieri. You go by boat to Mahinapua, and the approach to the lake is unquestionably grand. For about five miles the creek runs slowly down ‘ to join the brimming river,’ reflecting in its dark brown water the beautiful vegetation which lines the banks. The scene is one of ever changing beauty. Now the stream runs almost hidden beneath an arch of gigantic trees which tower above, anon a clear view opens out with great clumps of flax, toi toi rushes, and marvellous tree fems on either side. Here a mass of convol vus is seen, there a graceful festoon of clematis, and close by a mass of rata in full bloom, while clumps of a sweetly-scented little orchid peep from the trunks above. The Lake itself is not so pretty. An annual regatta is held on its waters, and the event collects a large concourse of visitors. Every available boat is then called into requisition to get to the Lake. The reflections, which are the principal charm and attraction, are even finer in the South creek than in the North, both of which are shown in the engraving. A trip to Lake Kanieri, of which one or two glimpses appear in

the engraving, should not be missed by the visitor to the district. Situated about twelve miles out among the mountains, the road passes through glorious virgin bush almost the whole way. The lake is sighted suddenly, and forms a truly magnificent and impressive picture. It is seven miles long and two broad. On the left, Mounts Tuhua and Brown stand out boldly, their steep sides being bush-clad down to the water’s edge. A track has been cut round part of the lake, and splendid opportunities offer for the collection of fems, of which there is the wildest profusion. Boats can be hired at the boat-house, and at Glossop's Retreat (excellently reproduced in our engraving) the inner man can be satisfactorily and substantially refreshed. The bridge shown about the centre of the engraving is a splendid structure spanning the Hokitika River near Kanieri.

NAPIER (HAWKE'S BAY). The picture of Napier, showing the Western Spit bridge, was taken from the Hospital hill. Visitors standing on this eminence havea splendid scene presented to them. The bridge, nearly half a mile long, connects the Western and Eastern Spits, and this, the overland route, is followed by tourists on their way to the Hot Lakes district and Auckland. Just below the structure is situated Fisherman’s Bay ; the home of the local fisher folk, while to the extreme right may be seen the fine buildings of the North British and Hawke’s Bay Freezing Company. The large wool stores of the Napier merchants front the wharf, alongside of which lie vessels up to 900 tons, and drawing about 14 feet. Previous to the erection of the bridge, traffic between the two Spits was carried on by means of ferry boats. On a fine day. the panoramic view from the Hospital hill is a magnificent one, showing on every side—north, south, east, and west —scenes of unsurpassing beauty.

AUCKLAND AND SUBURBS FROM THE SUMMIT OF RANGITOTO. Although equal in magnificence tothefamous view from Mount Eden, of which Aucklanders are so justly proud, the panorama from the summit of Rangitoto is rarelv enjoyed by visitors to the Northern Capital, and even in Auckland itself there are, comparatively speaking few who have scaled the grim extinct volcano, which stands sentinel wise at the entrance to the lovely harbour, and been rewarded by the splendid prospect of the city and suburbs on the one side, and of the harbour and open sea on the other. The difficulties in the way of ascent are not very considerable, but they are a sufficient deterrent to the lazy tourist, who takes his holiday and his scenery easily, or to the energetic man, who is in a hurry to do a great deal in a little time. There is no regular communication with the island, which is, by the way, almost perfectly round, and preserves the same long, narrow-looking shape from whatever point of the harbour it is regarded. This means that the intending visitors must either be conveyed in a friend’s yacht or large open boat, or hire one of the small steam launches with which the port is well provided. Then, when the island is reached, the climb is a tough and exhausting one, and the strange part is that the descent is equally, if not more arduous than the ascent. The mountain is formed of large blocks

of scoria, sharp of angle and irregular of shape, and often insecurely balanced one on top of the other. Both in climbing up and in coming down the work of clambering over these hard-hearted boulders is far from easy. A pair of very thickly-soled and roughly-finished lace-up boots is indispensable. Shoes, tennis slippers, or walking boots are torn off the feet in a very few moments, as many have found to their pain and cost. Moreover, the greater part of the mountain is covered with dense scrub, which enhances the difficulties of the climb by making it far from easy to tell when a straight course is being preserved, once at the top, however—and the last five minutes is what sporting people would call ‘ a scorcher ’ —the view is worth all the pains and penalties of the climb. Save from the Cocovado in Rio, no more superb harbour view can be found in the world. Turn the face towards Auckland, far away in the distance can be discerned the rugged Waitakerei ranges, forming a noble and continuous chain right across the picture,broken only by the Manukau Harbour entrance, the North (13) and South (12) Heads showing up prominently, the sheet of water on the left being part of the extensive Manukau Harbour. Bring the reluctant eye gradually nearer in and see the various volcanic cones behind the city. On the extreme left is Mount Hobson (7), next lies One Tree Hill (8), then Auckland’s lion, Mount Eden (9). round whose slopes gather the villas and residences of the city’s wealthy citizens. Mount Albert (to) and Three Kings are the remaining smaller cones, the terminating point on the right in this line of view being Point Chevalier (n). Now turn to the opposite, the northern side of the harbour, and look over Kauri Point (6), over Northcote (5), with its sugar works and its strawberry gardens ; then pass on to O'Neil’s Point (4), which forms the eastern point of Shoal Bay, of which Northcote was the western boundary ; then drawing inwards again, Mount Victoria 13) with its signalling aparatus, and finally from Fort Cautley on the North Head (2) to the Trig Station at our feet, the spot from which the view was taken. The seaward view is not, of course, in the present line of sight, but is equally beautiful, though more dependant on colour than the portion of the panorama represented in our sketch.

IN AND ABOUT DUNEDIN. THE FIRST CHURCH. Undoubtedly the best time in which to see the First Church is by moonlight, for the day shows up stains and time-marks which the charitable night-time covers. Standing as it does on an eminence, near the site of the premier Presbyterian church of Otago, it looms forth with its conspicuous spire, a prominent object in the landscape to arrivals either by train or by boat, bearing at first sight a thoroughly cathedral look. This church is built in Moray Place, and the front outlook is blocked to a certain extent by the city buildings. On the left side stands the Coffee Palace, adjoining the residence of Dr. Hocken —a name well-known to students of Maori history—immediately in front are the Young Women’s Christian Association Rooms. This church, the largest in Dunedin, and capable of seating about

1.000 people, is built of white stone, now softened by the touch of time during twenty years, to a greyish hue. From the back one can obtain a fine view of the upper harbour and the Peninsula Hills. KNOX CHURCH. Knox Church is perhaps scarcely of such historical importance ; but still has a greater personal interest as being the scene of the late Dr Stuart's labours. About eighteen years ago it supplanted an old wooden building in King street, and since then its original blue stone has been overgrown with a mass of ivy, which, viewed from George-street, where the main entrance fronts, bears a singularly picturesque appearance. For sound and light there is no finer church in Dunedin, and the holding capacity is scarcely inferior to that of the First Church, a gallery running round the entire building. Built on the level ground, it cannot attract attention so readily as its sister edifice, though the commanding spire rises ebove all surrounding erections. With a fine organ, and a popular preacher, no wonder that the morning and evening congregations are crowded, and when the stained-glass window—to be placed in the side of the building towards town, in memory of the late pastor—is actually finished, no finer place of worship will exist in Dunedin.

ST. JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL. This is a monument of Catholic piety and self-denial. Viewed from the garden of the Bishop’s Palace —a blue stone building, faced with white—it has an imposing appearance. It stands high above the town, half-way up Rattray-street, and catches the eye at once of those arriving by boat or train. Though still far from complete, the front presents a noble appearance ; the main entrance, approached by a flight of broad stone steps, is surmounted by a large square tower, flanked by smaller ones When finished, the Cathedral is to extend further back to nearly half its present length, until it touches the buildings at the back, known as the Christian Brothers’ School. However, .the carving of the altar and pulpit are very beautiful, and the Cathedral, when finished, will be one of the chief ornaments of the city. Next to the Cathedral, and overlooking town, are the Convent buildings, and immediately below, on the opposite side of the road, the Girls’ High School. ST. CLAIR HEADLAND. Above the baths at St. Clair, and winding round from Cargill's cliffs, there is a road cut through the rock, leaving, on the side towards the ocean, a mass of sandstone forming a headland, on which one may mount to enjoy fully such a scene as here depicted. The blue Pacific, with its nature changed for the nonce, is lashed into a mass of seething white foam, which dashes over the barrier of the baths, and obliterates all distinction between them and the surrounding ocean. White Island, a mile out at sea, is merely an occasionally visible speck, and the whole panorama is altered from its usual smiling loveliness to one of sterner, albeit greater, beauty. In St. Clair itself, there are but few signs of life, and from the breezy altitude of this rocky headland, against which the waves are dashing furiously below, scarce a sign of life can be seen along the expanse of beach stretching for upwards of three miles to Lawyer's

Head, and over this distant promontory itself, the mist is slowly creeping. The waves are lashing its base, am’ rushing over the rocks around, while the Bird Rock itself, standing out in the sea, at about 100 yards distant from Lawyer’s Head, is only occasionally seen through the masses of white foam. VIEW OF PORT ROAD (NEAR BURKE'S .

The road to Port Chalmers, as one nears Burke's, about five miles from town, affords a very beantiful panorama. On the left hand, one passes villa residences and smaller cottages with trim gardens and plantations of trees around, then behind them rise wooded hills. From one particular spot just before reaching Burke’s railway station, a very fine view is obtainable. The bush rises on the left, and on the right stretches the harbour, with its scarcely-defined channel, leading from the Heads to Dunedin. Four miles further down, the two quarantine islands can be descried, with a passage between, and to the side, PortChalmers,scattered overthe hilland round the shore, lies sleeping in the sun. About seven miles beyond Port Chalmers, the Heads, with the mole and works now nearly completed, are faintly seen. Across the harbour on the right-hand side, one catches a glimpse of that part of the Peninsula lying just above the suburb of Portobello, about 2'. miles across from the port. Straight before us, on the Port road, somewhat to the left, rises a large private residence, while beyond, the modest spire of the Presbyterian church at I’ort Chalmers peeps forth on the hillside. Straight onwards, six or seven miles away, rise the peaks of Mihiwaka, hazy in the blue distance, while on the left-hand side, four miles off, the hinder ridge of Mount Cargill cleaves the intervening horizon.

VIEW OF PELICHET BAY. With the advance of civilisation, the old glory of Pelichet Bay has departed. Standing at the end of the causeway, leading to the commencement of the Port Chalmers Road, the first object that strikes the eye is a most grotesque lime-kiln, more beautiful in a picture than in reality. The aggressive chimney, and the sheds and surrounding cottages obtrude themselves everywhere ; but beyond, rises the belt of native bush, evergreen and luxuriant, while the white headstones of the Northern Cemetery peep through the trees, the monument to Mrs Larnach standing sentry over the rest. At our feet lies the stretch of Pelichet Bay, formed into an artificial lake, stretching from the causeway road to the shooting targets on the one hand, over which towers Signal Hill, to the Logan’s Point quarry on the other. This sheet of water, with its boatsheds and its pleasure parties rowing over the surface, presents in summer a most animated appearance. VIEW IN BOTANICAL GARDENS. Thither resort the children and their nurses to feed the black swans and the ducks, which sail across the surface of the artificial ponds. Behind us a brawling stream rushes, spanned by a little rustic bridge, and all around, a wealth of native trees spreads wide. At the back of the Gardens rise manuka-clad hills, while immediately within the boundaries lies a mass of bush, interspersed with beds of gay flowers, smooth lawns, or winding

walks. Several old forest giants uprear their stately heads, and over the surface of the ponds drcop the graceful willows ; this is a spot where everybody resorts ; but still one can secure a quiet corner in which to meditate, as be gazes upward at the blue sky, and listens to the feathered songsters in the tangle of undergrowth, or on the branches of the lofty trees which spread all around him. VIEW FROM THE WHARF.

To one standing on what is known as the ‘ tongue wharf’ and facing towards town, a very pretty scene is presented. Just below stretches the inner basin of the Dunedin Harbour, closed in on the left by the Jettystreet Wharf, and on the right by the Rattray-street I’ier. Beyond the wharf, up towards town, runs Rattray street, with the Loan and Mercantile buildings on our right hand, and further up extend various insurance and other oftices. In front rises Roslyn, its hillsides clad with bush and thickly dotted with the residences of those who prefer this breezy eminence to a house on lower ground. The sheet of water immediately below the tongue wharf affords a safe spot for amateur boating, and widens out into the Upper Dunedin Harbour, where lies the course for the more professional rowing crews. BY THE FOUNTAIN.

In the centre of the Triangle, once the site of mostunsightly railway workshops, stands a fountain, presented by private munificence to the citizens of Dunedin. This place, laid out in grass, traversed by walks and surrounded by a belt of trees, native and otherwise, is the first spot to catch the eye when one comes from the rail-way-station. The main frontage faces lower High-street, and Rattray-street runs by the side. Directly in front rises the Daily Times office, and above this the Garrison Hall, both fronting Dowling-street. The Triangle, especially near the fountain, is seldom empty. There come the children to watch the waters play : here gather the idle and unemployed : and on the surrounding seats many a weary passer-by is able to snatch a few moments’ welcome rest. NICHOL’S CREEK. The waterfalls, at a distance of about three miles from the city, form, perhaps, one of the prettiest excursions round about Dunedin. The road for about two miles runs beside the Water of Leith, then a turn to the left takes the pleasure-seeker up the bed of a stream for about a quarter of an hour, conducting him quite to the foot of the Falls. Though quite small in height—about to to 40 feet —aud never possessing any great volume of water, at anyrate nothing like Niagara, there is a wondrous beauty in the scene. All around is a mass of densest bush, with foliage of varied green, aud a tangle of undergrowth, mingled with a wealth of ferns which spread everywhere in rank profusion. The noise of the falling water drowns all sound beside, save the song of the birds, and here indeed one can feel that he is alone with nature. It is a matter of great commendation to all concerned that this spot, and its wonderful environment of bush, are to be preserved in future from further civilised desecration.

THE OCEAN BEACH AT DUNEDIN. He who ever visits Dunedin, even if only for a few days, generally goes on an excursion to St. Clair, the modern fashionable watering-place, which has within ’he past few years arisen on the spot once known as • Forbury.' Times are changed indeed since then, for now it is the resort of all. from the jeunesse dot re of the

city down through all grades. Here * Arry ’is also in evidence, critical both as to his fellow-man and fellowwoman, particularly the latter, in which respect his Jemima is no whit behind him. As one must needs go through Purgatory to reach Paradise, so the approach to St. Clair lies through what we may safely call the ‘ East End ’ of Dunedin, though southerly as to direction. The best way to pass the twenty-minutes’ drive is to take a drag or a top-decked tram, and it is not long before we feel the invigorating sea-breezes from the blue Pacific. We are landed almost on the beach, and, from the terminus. runs, or rather did run, an Esplanade, for the encroaching sea one day rushed in and utterlywrecked the lower half, only the upper part running towards the baths remaining intact. This Ocean Beach extends for about three miles from St. Clair, and from • the cliff's ’ on the right to Lawyer’s Head on the left. Towering above the sea, at the right extremity, stands the precipice, high on the top of which is perched the residence of Mr E. B. Cargill, son of the erstwhile pioneer captain of that ilk, a noble mansion, though now shorn by recent fire of much of its ancient splendour. Lower down, the battery frowns over a stretch of stony beach, and immediately faces White Island—a sma'l rock almost a mile out at sea. The fame of this port has gone abroad into all quarters of the earth, and scared away every possible invader. Still lower down are the baths —an artificially hollowed basin 75 feet long and of varying depth. From daylight till 10 a.m. men swarm, then from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. the ladies have their innings, after which the men again take possession. Spring, summer, and autumn see them rushed, and a few adventurous Arctic souls even persist in winter visits. St. Clair itself is a rapidly-growing township, a Brighton in miniature—very miniature, however —possessing several large private residences, many smaller ones, boarding-houses, an hotel, etc., while Dr. Coughtrey’s private hospital has lately been erected close by. Behind the sandhills stretches the Forbury racecourse, beyond which again lie little suburbs, generally grouped under the one name of St. Kilda. Walking along the beach from St. Clair, beside the sand-hills, one comes to St. Kilda from the ocean side, the only place of interest being the Grand Pacific Hotel, the late Government House during the Exhibition of iSSq-'qo. On we go for a mile and a-half to Lawyer’s Head, a precipitous point where formerly stood a battery now partially dismantled. A troublesome lagoon forming on the beach necessitates a detour, unless one is prepared to wade —certainly the easier alternative, even if less dignified. The St. Clair end is too civilised for him who loves the sea and its solitary grandeur ; but at Lawyer’s Head there is no attempt to alter nature, and one can sit and gaze over the sea and watch the white crested waves break on the rocks or rush into the caves, oblivious of the fact that at the back of him lies the city, with its roar of traffic, and its busy multitude of men. On a moonlight night it is a place indeed in which to sit and dream ‘ the world forgetting, by the world forgot.’ But time presses, and we must hie back to St. Clair, skirting the sand hills this time, for the tide is flowing rapidly. Wise precaution this, to preserve the sand hills, the natural and only barrier between the sea and the low-lying suburbs beyond. The place is nearly deserted now, the refreshment-rooms are empty, the boat-swings are still, even the itinerant photographer has left, and as I take myplace—asolitary passengerin thecar—the lights of thecitycome out onebyone. as we pass along theCargill Road, through St. Kilda and up Princes-street to the terminus; but I'know that behind me the new-risen moon has bathed the whole scene from Cargill’s Cliffs to Lawyer’s Head in a flood of golden glory.

SCENES AT THE WELLINGTON HEADS. A very fair idea of the bold and striking scenery to be found at the Wellington Heads is given in the picture which appears on page 17. The most impressive view is that overlooking Cook Strait, where on a fine, clear day the white peaks of the snow-clad Kaikouras may be seen glistening against the blue sky-line. Of the six views given the first represents the Maori kainqa at the Heads, and shows also the head and pinnacle rock. In number two we see Pilot Shieling and the Maoris who assist in the work of the pilot station. Three and four are views taken of the rugged and picturesque rock scenery to be found round about the pilot station. At the bottom corner is an excellent view of the heads as seen from Wellington, and next it is a spirited representation of a sailing vessel which has cleared the Heads and is bowling down the famous Cook Strait.

MOUNT EGMONT, TARANAKI. The people of Taranaki are proud of many things. They will tell you of the great future that awaits this district, which has been so favoured by Nature as to have earned the title of the garden of New Zealand. They will probably speak enthusiastically of the fortune which lies waiting for the capitalists in their iron sand ; they may, perchance, speak of the petroleum which is going to make piles like unto that of Gilead P. Beck’s for the speculators interested in its discovery ; and they will be certain to point with pride to Mount Egmont as one of the most beautiful sights in New Zealand. This it certainly is, and no one who has seen the mountain from New Plymouth, Stratford, or indeed from any point of view in the surrounding district is likely to forget it. The view from the summit is one of the finest and most extensive in the Southern Hemisphere, and as the ascent is by no means a difficult matter, visitors to the district are usually taken for the climb. There are many routes, but that most stronglv recommended is from Stratford, where the distance actually to be travelled is onlv about 14 miles, it being exactly 12 miles as the crow flies from Stratford to the summit, iforsescan, moreover, be taken 4,000 feet up, so that the fatigue is greatly lessened. The peak usually ascended is the Western, and the view from thence has been thus described : — • Far away to the south glisten the snowy peaks of the Southern Alps in the South Island. On three sides is the ocean. Apparently immediately below, though nearly twenty miles distant, is the shore of the circular promintary of Taranaki, extending from Waitara on the north to Hawera on the south. Beneath, are the various towns, villages, clearings and homesteads encircling the mountain. The swamp lying near the Pouakai Range, the Hangatahua River winding its silvery course to the sea, and the numerous rivers which take their rise in the mountain. All these can be clearly traced. Tothesoutheast are two green and yellow patches. These represent the Ngaire swamps, thousands of acres in extent To the east towards the snow-clad peaks of Ruapehu and the cones Ngaruahoe and Tongariro, while on the north are the Paranini cliffs, 1,000 feet high, though apparently just above the sea. New Plymouth breakwater is dwarfed to the size of a walking stick, and the Sugar Loaves look like thimbles.’ The time occupied in the ascent varies, of course, but even for ladies the climb is neither too long or too arduous a business.

Calamity at Sea averted by Frossard’s Cavour, the only Cigar mild enough to smoke at sea. (Advt. 21