LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XV, Issue XXI, 23 November 1895, Page 661

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

H I Hats ! Hats ! Hats ! and the cry is, * still they come,’ burst ing on our vision in their be wildering array of bright sunburnt straw, vagaries of green / 1 a “d y e,low - subdued harmonies «■ l of fancifully twisted straw woik qS«Ss; I * n dead rose and green deftly «a\T V 1 blended together. Large rosQ )> I ettes of chiffon, wide, outstand -4So.- | ing bows of striped gauze, wired "V'* lace, squashed pink roses on erect green foliage, paste buckles, shot silk ribbon ; granted a sufficiency of these things, a nice taste to put them together, and you have the most fashionable hat that the mode of the moment can desire. Never were trimmings so sentimental—l use the term advisedly—no sooner does one bnckle make its appearance on a bat than its fellow is sure to be seen in its neighbourhood, no bow is deemed sufficient unless there is another to match on the other side of the crown, and the bnnch of pink roses, if a smaller bunch did not combine to make a match of it in an opposite direction. Hats no longer attempt to match our costumes, nevertheless they have a subtle way of expressing a kind of courteous sympathy with the other colours donned by the wearer. As an artist recently remarked, it is really unfair to nature that flowers can now and are so beautifully imitated. To some degree in consequence of this rivalry between art and reality, the bona fide blossoms are not so lovingly cherished as of yore. At all swell functions, theatres, races, and flower shows the eye, is quite overcome by the wealth of flowers on the ladies’ millinery. In my opinion the capote, which distinguishes itself as being one of those supremely ladylike confections, is a charming little bonnet from which only a couple of blossoms—but perfect of their

kind—spring up with undeniable Mayfair chic. The rather flat foundation is composed of a species of wicker work in gold embroidery, and from each side of this compact shape burst forth a couple of so called bat’s wings, of the broderie d'or, deftly associated with fine seed jet. In front of the black satin Alsatian bow are perched two deep pink camellias, with just a suggestion of their own dark, glossy foliage. These rather conventional-looking flowers are the dernier cri in Paris, where they are employed by the haute voice of the Rue de la Paix. There is always so much to be said apropos of clothes for the grown np portion of the community that one is apt to forget the dainty toilettes of the little girl. But she refuses to be utterly ignored ; and really there are such pretty novelties just now for children, and more especially in the way of hats and bonnets, that our artist has not been able to resist the temptation of sketching the very newest and

sweetest thing in juvenile ’pokes.’ After the rather lengthy reign of the Tam o’Shanter, which certainly imparts a pert diablerie’Vo youthful features, this quaint.style of bonnet is very refreshing to the gaza. Some popular painter has declared that a pretty face counts for nothing without a frame in some shape or form. This capote en-

frames the girlish features in a most delightful manner and has decided advantages over the square tight fitting Puritan capotes of which one is beginning to weary. This particular shape is in ripe corn-coloured Leghorn, and is decked with true Cambridge blue satin ribbons and plumes. The strings tied under the chin add the final touch of sweet quaintness to a bonnet which is sure to make a hit as the season advances.

Little Tomboy’s frocks are undergoing various modifications. Madam Modus now decrees that they should be rather shorter and not quite so baggy as the Kate Greenway blouses that have been with us so long. However, it is doubtful whether the very abbreviated petticoats revealing the black silk stockinged knee and a multitude of starched embroidered white petticoats, in which nurse used to take so much pride, will ever return to gladden the heart of the little girl, who, of course, loves to be able to skip and run unhampered by over-long skirts.

The third sketch is a lovely fancy delaine in a delicate mauve overlaid with fine silk stripes and dotted with tiny sprigs. Beautiful silk embroidery forms revere on the shoulders and braces, the neck being finished with two

exquisite violet-coloured tips. Lace and mauve silk bows on fancy straw forms the hat. ♦ * * Just at this time of year, when one generally longs for a

complete outfit of summer clothes, but has oftener than not to put up for some little time longer with winter frocks, a little inexpensive cape comes in very bandy to replace our heavier coats and mantles. Here is a specimen of a neat confection, not at ail difficult to turn out at home. It is composed of stone-grey habit cloth with a pleated shoulder cape, headed by a puffing. To smarten the effect of this otherwise demure garment some copper-coloured metallic braiding rather loosely woven is used for trimming, and a surah lining, in which (the brown and grey are blended, gives the necessary heaviness to the cape. The Elizabethan ruffles in lace and chiffon intermingled with flowers still hold good. A dingy gown is often redeemed by one of these dainty items. A pretty blue cicpon gown is fastened down in various places with tiny little gold buttons, which look almost like nails. This has a waistcoat of white chiffon outlined with two narrow pieces of orange-coloured velvet, fastened with little gold buttons, and a waistband of chind silk. A yachting coat of pleasing detail is of dark blue cloth with a bright blue velvet collar, and cuffs outlined with a single line of gold braid, and this is worn over a cream front draped with pale yellow lace. Some lovely fronts are made of the finest lawn appliqued with lace, and these are invariably finished at the neck with some quaint conceit of different hued velvet, or diamond buttons, or odd pieces of chiffon. Everything here is invested with a touch of originality quite invaluable. And this originality is not only noticeable in the dress department; it creeps into the millinery. What think yon of a hat with a crown of cornflower blue, trimmed with heliotrope shot ribbon, pansies, and polyanthus leaves, or of a green shot straw, with half-dead crimson roses tied with mauve, purple, and cream ribbons, and large bunches of violets at the back ’

HELOISE.