LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XV, Issue XX, 16 November 1895, Page 629

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

SCOT races always produce a |fr“4 number of pretty gowns, and I; I 1 th’ B ear was no exce P t * OD - Ij \ 1 The London season has in every wSt'a Xr 7 I way been a glorious one, and I to pass in review even the most \\(\ important gatherings would -II A ' ii l - ■ I take »P for too much space to I 1 ftijr I X//; 1 permit me to do so. Mention, I however, is called for in thia ~ J ■' 7 7— ~ 1 column to the recent garden ■ parties given by the Archbishop of Canterbury at Lambeth Palace, and to the alfresco ‘at home’ of the Bishop of London, in consequence of the magnificent toilettes worn for the occasions. At these rural entertainments, that, by the way, in my opinion are far preferable to a reception in close summer-heated rooms, the daintiest of head gear was worn, for more scope is permissible in the matter of picture hats and artistic bonnets. A young lady just out of her teens was much admired at the Archbishop’s gathering, in a little bonnet, guiltless of either, flowers or plumes, but arranged in so faultless a manner that these adjuncts were not missed in the least. On a small, buff coloured rough straw shape, curved rather on the * Marie Stuart ’ lines without the very decided point in front, a large Alsatian bow of corded turquoise blue ribbon spreads wing like at the back of a smaller loop arrangement of apricot and white

mirror velvet. To impart an air of summer fragility to this supremely chic little capote, wings of spotted cream net have been added behind the Alsatian bow. Strings have not been considered necessary to the success of this bonnet; indeed very few of the latest masterpieces in millinery can boast of ribbons tied either under the chin or beneath the coil of hair. This mode is now only the monopoly of ladies of a certain, or rather, uncertain, age. On the other hand never was there a greater demand for ribbons and other furbelows with which to ornament the throat and give a generous setting to the face. The back and side bows that are invariably worn round the neck of the up to-date damsel, knock several years off the appearance of the wearer, and it is a question whether some of us shall ever be able to dispense with this dainty finery, so infinitely superior to the hard linen collar affected by the ‘New Woman’ in tailor-built clothes. To return to the subject of millinery ; at the first summer meeting at Sandown Park some of the most successful were golden tan shapes trimmed simply with double frills of fine cream lace and clumps of crimson roses—so suggestive of the season—divided by a pretty arrangement of the very fashionable green rushes. These were twisted into loops and pinned down with paste brooches in the shape of stars.

Secondly I give the sketch of a shot silk and alpaca gown, that material that is once more in such favour. It is essentially a handsome dress, perhaps more fitted for a yonng married lady rather than for a girl. To begin with, deep the glace is of a very rich quality, and is shaded from a periwinkle blue to old gold. The epaulets and butterfly folds in front are lightly powdered with jet, this glistening trimming being also repeated on the •Princesse’ portion of the dress. Here the silk is supplanted by a very

sheeny alpaca of a somewhat lighter shade of periwinkle, a material that just seems fitted for a racing Jupe. Sime of

the new French travelling and dust cloaks are made'of taffetas, and in the old 1830 shape. The favourite shots for these mantles are * punch-flame,’ grey-green, and a plain moss colouring. As regards the first-mentioned tint, I can not say that it is one suited for the merry months of June, July, and Augnst. With the mists of September this flaming colour might be tolerable. The latest atrocity indulged in for hat trimming is to poise a stuffed dove with wings outstretched on the front of the hat. Though it undoubtedly is a novelty, it is questionable if it will have much success.

Regattas will soon be with yon, and, in expectation of * swagger ' regattas, many are already planning their river toilettes. There is every probability that if only the weather is fair any amount of the new flowered cotton

crSpons and silk-spotted cambrics, as well as the more serviceable piques, will be largely worn. I give a gown of pique that seems just the thing for a smart river or marine entertainment. The material, which is a happy revival of a very old mode, is white, patterned with a tiny mouche or sprig of china blue. The skirt is simplicity itself, the only ornamentation here being a strip of 6cru Valenciennes. The corsage is treated with bands of the same lace, and on the shoulders cape epaulettes of deep cream lawn, edged with the dentelle, give a certain out-door finish to the frock. Round the waist and throat are ruched bands of china blue ribbon.

Cycling having taken so complete a hold on womenkind, the question of costume for * bike ’ exercise has become as important as any other item of the wardrobe of a society dame. In Paris, the knickerbocker suit reigns supreme now, one leading lady cyclist especially affecting green velvet knickers, with crimson silk shirt, and green velvet bolero jacket; but the knickers are not considered good form in England, though rational for the purpose. Amongst the innumerable wheel-women whirling gaily up and down

the new Rotten R»w at Battersea Park, I have not seen one in knickerbocker costume. The dresses are smart, and extremely neat and workmanlike, but one and all wear the seemly, if irrational, skirt, though pants take the place of

petticoats underneath, thus securing greater freedom of action. The skirts are cut to the ankles ; and the favourite coat is illustrated here, which is one of several sketches made at the fashionable cycling rendezvous* of the hour. The costume in this example consists of navy blue drill, the coat cut Eton fashion to waist in front, opening to show a white shirt with dark blue or red necktie. The back is cut with tails, lined with white, and the neck is finished by a broad collar and revere of white drill. A white straw sailor hat trimmed with white ribbon and wings, with a white double-width veil; patent leather shoes with white gaiters, and white stitched gloves, complete the tout en ■semble. The white stitched kid gloves are de rigueur for a well-turned out wbeelwoman, and the nattiest and prettiest of shoes and hose are also a very important item.

Heloise.