LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIV, Issue VI, 9 February 1895, Page 141

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

___ OME of the confections of the new milliners are, cherts Mesdames, /"A '. * I 's* not to be despised. I wandered \ amongst their elegant designs ar’ X. and sketched one or two for your XXS \ benefit. The one I send you this \ week is truly Parisian in tone. f rf'. J 1 It is called a toque or bonnet, lyt/'•'%-< I f V''-r y and is built with gold and green x —l tinsel crown and wings in front, trimmed with Malmaison carnations and black osprey in front, and bows of black tulle at the back. The Merveilleuse hair frame, which has almost become a necessity to every woman who wishes to dress her hair well,

raised in front. There are also some little curled tufts of hair, set on to long loops of wire. The curls rest on the forehead, the loop of wire being caught with a small hairpin

has been improved by being made with two holes at the top, and more oblong than round in shape. By this frame the hair can be divided into two strands and coiled together, forming a highly ornamental twist. »;The new demiPompadour fringe is charmingly natural, and is slightly

at the back of the head. The frizette is then fixed on the top of the head, the front hair being turned back over it. Tortoise shell combs for keeping the hair in place at the side are much a la mode in Paris.

Of the new gowns, a delightful model at Worth’s is made in black and white striped silk, with the front seams of the skirt outlined with a yellow-tinged lace resting upon a band of black satin ribbon and a band of white satin ribbon. The bodice of this boasts an ideal collar falling round the shoulders, cut up into a quaint shape, made of white moire outlined with the yellow lace, while at the neck and at the waist appear draped bands of cerisetinted miroir velvet. Such a pretty dress for a young girl there is made of pavement-grey crfipon, trimmed with black velvet, with the bodice made in bouillonnes of rosehued shot glace silk, the skirt draped at one side to show a petticoat striped with black velvet, suggestive somewhat of the Marguerite style.

For my second fashion sketch, I illustrate an elegant visiting gown in broche Watteau, a sort of dull rose canvas woven double over a reseda silk back, the res6da silk appearing in a pattern something like crocodile ciepon. The skirt is gracefully caught up on the left hip with a paste buckle, to show a peticoat of reseda Bengaline edged with cream guipure. The bodice has basques of the two materials, and a narrow waistcoat and folded bertha of reseda silk, the bertha caught together with paste buckle. Chemisette of beautiful oriental embroidery, which is also introduced in a slash in the sleeve on the inside seam, which is piped with the risdda.

It is time, as cooler weather approaches, to think of outdoor garments in the shape of jackets or capes. One of the prettiest styles is that shown in my third sketch, a sort of half-and half cape, a demi-saison affair, useful and elegant. It is made of the new black watered silk interwoven with a coloured satin lining, which, though outwardly so grave and sombre, betrays at every movement of the wearer, the most fascinating shades of colour, underneath. V-shaped bands of the silk, finished with a bow back and front, define the cape, whilst ornaments of a superior straw-coloured embroidery mark the puffs, and the centre of the back. To my mind, it is quite smart enough without these appendages.

For children, there are now some taking costumes. Very charming was a little Boman satin coat of reseda green, with an embroidered collar and gauntlet cuffs, the lining being of pale pink nun’s veiling. The back of the coat was

a ‘sacque,’ thefrontssimulatingtbedouble-breasted garment of older modes. A blue-faced cloth coat for a girl of ten was finished with a cape of the same, edged with guipure lace. The smocks of white silk, linen, cotton, and ciepon were numerous and dainty. One of mignonette washing silk had a round smocked yoke edged with lace. A luxurious little model bad embroidered zouave cuffs and collar of pink cr6pon, embroidered with silk of a deeper shade. Even the tiny shirts of white silk or cambric were smocked with thick white silk and trimmed with lace. Pinafores of white cambric were hand embroidered with coloured threads, some in white and blue, others in blue and red, or indigo. Pinafores of coarse holland were also embroidered in colours. The hats for little maidens were most pretty. A soft cream Leghorn had a simple wreath of pink and white daisies and bows of white brocaded ribbon. Chatelaines are worn again, hnng with all sorts of bibelots and Lonis XVI, flasks and seals, and there is a rage for fancy dog collars fastened with quaint clasps and bars.

Time cannot wither nor custom stale the infinite variety of the muslin dressing gown ; every year it reappears in some different form or other, and every year may it he most cordially welcomed, for it is ever one of the most becoming garments instinct with feminine graciousness. You may see it in a dozen and one different forms—of plain muslin, of tucked muslin, of spotted muslin, of flowered muslin, and of muslin so plentifully decked with lace that it be-

comes at otce a veritable garment of luxury as well as of elegance. • The other model sketched is a tea jacket made of one of the new muslins in a tan shade with a white embroidered spot ; the insertions of lace on the sleeves are of pale coffee

colour, and round the waist and at the wrists are pink satin ribbons, while a pink lining glimmers softly through the transparency of the material. How worthily this would grace an afternoon tea table ! Heloise.