BLACK VELVET EFFECTS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XII, Issue IX, 3 March 1894, Page 213

BLACK VELVET EFFECTS.

N most millinery wings are still .-> , .C'-ZV the favoured trimming, whether jUf JB ■ it be hat or bonnet. It will be JJ seen that they are represented >“ three of the illustrations this week. In the first is shown y. . . rd a hat of fancy coarse straw in a ' light brown tint, with a novel y”—- ~ brim which curls off in two IJ I ® °?“ ? 7 / separate portions in front, formI ’ ’ t / # ' J ing the favourite dogs’ ears. \ ' The wings are placed directly in \ / front. Though coarse straws ', j' are so much in favour, many people prefer fine chip or Dunstable as having a more refined appearance, just as there are thousands who will cling to the fine cloths and serges, while others are running after wide ribs and rough surfaces. Felt, however, is the principal material for hats. It may not be generally known that a good felt hat will dye well, and in skilful hands can be made to look like new, especially if dressed with a certain softness. Home trimming is only successful in those exceptional cases where Nature has bestowed a special gift of manipulation, but there are many milliners who will trim a hat at a trifling cost. Jet aigrettes are largely worn just

now, and plumes of cocks’ feathers are coming in again, these being better suited to felt hats in doubtful weather. »»* * * * A beautiful outfit for India, just completed, includes amongst the gowns a dinner one of palest mauve surah, the plain skirt having a lace flounce at the edge, forming three deep scallops round the skirt, each scallop finished at the top with a large violet velvet rosette. The low bodice of violet velvet, formed a square at the neck, trimmed with lace, epaulettes of violet velvet over a large pnff of the silk rendering the sleeves most effective. Another evening dress of yellow Liberty silk, with a low square bodice, was trimmed with small yellow chiffon bouillonnees, each bouillonnee being separated by of forget-me nots. The skirt was finished off with a double bouillonnde of chiffon and heading of forget-me-nots. The same dainty blue flowers were also seen on the short puffed sleeves of silk and chiffon. A black satin useful dinner dress was made with two bodices. The plain skirt, only slightly trained, had the back width of black striped satin, two flounces of the plain material running round the edge. The dicolleti bodice was all black, with a berthe of fine black guipure headed with a band of jet. The puffed sleeves were of the

Ba . t \ n > caught up on the shoulders with knots of mack rnoiic. The waist was encircled by a broad satin belt, which came from the back and fell to one side, with a bow at the end of it. The high bodice had a yoke of laburnum silk, outlined with jet, and finished with a berthe of black lace dotted with little bows of satin ribbon. I nder the berthe was a wide ceinture of the yellow silk,

and the full sleeves to the elbow were edged with black lace. This bodice was intended to be worn this side of the Red Sea, and the blaek low one on the far side. Two charming tea gowns were in this outfit, one of white crdpe de soie, the skirt just touching the ground all round, with a narrow lace flounce at the edge of it. The shoulders were covered with old lace, forming a cape, and continued en cascade down each side of the front, which was of white silk mousseline, kilted finely and falling from neck to foot, the kilts being held in place on the bodice by three straps of lace insertion. A second gown, of pale sea green silk, was lovely with its angel sleeves and trimmings of green velvet. *•* * * » The smart and pretty black velvet coat shown in my second sketch is made to fit quite tightly to the figure, the sleeves being also close-fitting from above the elbows. The revers are turned back with a lining of fawn and green brocaded silk, and the wide mousquetaire cuffs are in the same, as well as the collar. The eccentric but becoming hat is in black and green straw, lined with black velvet, edged with a band of green and trimmed with fawn wings and a green rosette. The vest beneath is in fawn colour with enamelled buttons. Such a coat as this is very appropriate just now, between the seasons, when the dress bodice begins to be rather insufficient for outdoor covering. In velvet, it is suitable for wearing at fashionable functions ; but it need not be in such a sumptuous fabric as this, looking remarkably well in cloth or tweed turned back with moir£ silk, either black or coloured. *•* ♦ « • Dresses of two materials will be quite the rule for the coming season. Velvet can be used with every imaginable fabric, and plain and figured materials of the same character are generally approved. More embroidery, elaborate passementerie and gimp, and really elegant goods for yokes, collars, and cuffs will be used than for many seasons past; indeed, the rage for combinations seems to have broken out afresh this year, and the dress in which the most marked contrasts are shown will be the most admired, always provided, of course, that artistic rales be followed out in uniting the colours and materials. There are limited importations of metal-shot fabrics that are cut into rich garnitures. These are made for this purpose, and are so arranged that they cut to good advantage in careful hands. Satin is used quite as much as during the earlier months of the year. It is a most adaptable fabric, and, being not specially expensive and in good qualities very durable, has met with general favour. A much-admired Paris dress of velvet has a front of satin shirred in little puffs, the sides of the velvet, elaborately embroidered, falling over the puffed portion. The same finish extends up the front of the bodice to the collar, and spreads to the shoulders in yoke fashion ; and embroidered velvet ruffles are sewed in with the sleeves and lap towards the neck, instead of falling over the tops of the sleeves in the usual way. This is one of the methods of combining velvet and satin. *♦* » ♦ * There are some striped and patchy-looking models not particularly desirable, the combination being made in alternate sections of the two kinds of goods. For example, there is a skirt front of silk in slightly draped fashion ; the side pieces are of French cloth and the back of full-gathered breadths of silk. As a novelty this probably has its uses, but it suggests a lack of material of one sort, or the purchase at a bargain counter of two sorts of goods that would only go together in a half-and-half kind of way. A combination, to be effective, should have a very evident reason for existence. An imported dress of satin is almost covered with narrow velvet sewed on in a diamond pattern, the diamonds being about three inches wide. The yoke, collar, cuffs and belt are of velvet. Soft, figured silks are made up in plain princess fashion, with shoulder ruffles, sleeves and yokes of soft, plain material. ♦♦* ♦ * * My third sketch shows the double skirt in a new grey cloth dress becomingly mingled with black velvet. The yoke is quite novel, having almost the effect of a short zouave. The fulness is confined at the waist by a pointed belt of the velvet, which fastens at the back under a rosette. Both skirts are edged with two rows of fancy black trim-

ming. The sleeves are of grey cloth from the elbows and fit quite tightly to the arms, being buttoned at the wrist. The full upper sleeves are in black velvet, and over them

fall deep frills of the grey cloth, with a line of the black trimming near the edge. There is no fulness under the arms, where it would be very uncomfortable. There is a probability that the deep, full basques of the new coats and the double skirts between them may evolve the polonaise—a revival of which one does not anticipate withany lively feelings of satisfaction. It is all very well on a gown that has been turned out by a first-rate dressmaker or tailor, but it is really a detestable garment when badly cut, badly hung, and worn over a cheap lining, which shows at every opportunity granted it by a malicious chance. Besides, it involves the return of the ‘ foundation,’ of which we thought ourselves happily rid some two seasons ago. We are certainly better without the polonaise. It is a foolish addition to the weight we have to carry, and it supplies extra warmth where none is needed. There is no excuse for its return. Are we really to have ringlets again 1 Could Englishwomen ever revert to the glaring artificiality of a coiffure which not only needs a preparatory course of curl paper for its production, but a constant recurrence of these contrivvances in order to keep it in anything like order ’ At the present moment the favourite way of arranging the hair is in a series of small rolls or puffs, placed where they do not hide the outline of the head. The hair is all brushed up to the crown, and tied there, small pieces being afterwards lifted up and curled round the fingers, and placed in any position that the owner fancies. A triplicate mirror is a wonderful help in arranging a coiffure of this, or indeed any kind.

Heloise.