LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XI, Issue 50, 16 December 1893, Page 525

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

LATER STYLES.

COMPLETE change is taking i place in hairdressing this season. I The round * bnn which negligently adorned the nape of the I neck, and which owes its popu- -* larity to its simplicity and the ease with which it could be done, is vanishing from the fashionable circles though the hair continues to be dressed low in the day time, because of the bats and bonnets, which require it. It is always done high for evening wear, either in knots or rolls, and the very latest style is an adaptation of the bows our grandmothers wore, and which, in their modified edition of '93, look verystylish arid pretty indeed, especially with the hair parted in the centre, and crepe to the back. There are many varieties of it, and all equally becoming and effective. The low, flat bonnets that came in early this season are now less often seen than those which have a little height beyond that of the indispensable feather or flower that forms the aigrette. Later on the large 1830 bonnet may reappear, but at present its aspect is not sufficiently dressy nor summer-like. The hat shown in my first sketch is of fancy straw very much curved on either side of the biim, and trimmed with

cream-coloured lace and jet cabochons. The strings are in lace and silk muslin. *♦* * ♦ * There is quite a rage at present for the Marie Antoinette fichu, both in black lace and in white, and often in silk muslin or chiffon edged with frills. The long ends falling in front are much more graceful and pretty than those shorter ones that pass round the waist and tie at the back, where they seem to have no connection with anything, and suggest apron-strings rather than ornamental drapery. A fichu of old point is not a very common article of dress, and a lady of wealth and taste made a sensation by wearing one on a recent occasion with a bonnet also composed of old point stretched over fine cold wires. One of Princess May’s wedding presents is a fichu of old Irish point, presented by the Countess of Shannon, a very fine and beautiful piece of work. The pretty costume that is here illustrated is composed of grey bengaline, with a yoke of the new shape in creamcoloured guipure. The sleeves are also made in a new’

way, which is a great improvement upon the old, the upper ones appearing to be quite separate from the lower. Two rows of black satin trim the collar, and a band of black satin encircles the waist.

Dreeses are decidedly narrower in the skirts and much lees bunchy below the knees than they have been of late. The favourite summer fabrics are printed muslins, accordion kilted crepe or chiffon, chine mu«lin, with the wraiths of old-world flowers in the subdued tints of the designs, chine and glace silks, the latter often striped with dotted lines in satin and surah or foulard. These last two materials must be good to look well. In cheap ones there is an amount of cotton that soon makes them look shabby and old, however well they may appear when bought. An amount of skill is brought to bear upon preparing shoddy materials for the market that, were it better and more honestly bestowed, would achieve important results in a beneficial direction. These cheap foulards look like inferior cotton fabrics after the first wetting they receive. They are certainly not worth the money paid for making them up. What is paid for the making of a gown will more than purchase the material for another, to say nothing of the extravagant manner in which many dressmakers cut up and waste the stuff. It saves lime, they say, which is doubtless true, and it is not to their interest to economise, as it would be that of the proprietor of the dress length.

The fancy for thin materials over silk is still as strong as ever, and the third illustration is of one which was worn by a hostess at an afternoon * At Home ’ last week. It was made of Indian embroidered muslin—very transparent and very soft and white—with Valenciennes laee edging each flounce, and beaded by yellow bebe ribbon the colour of the silk—underneath, just giving a soft tone to the whole. The big puff sleeves were transparent, and ended in a lace trill. A lace edged fichu was fastened in a point half way down the back, and, crossing over in front, was carried round to the back again, where it was fastened with a careless double bow. A collar and chemisette of lace filled in at the throat, but this, I heard, was removable, so that the dress could be used for evening entertainments as well. It is reported that a new material for autumn and winter dresses, representing this favourite lace-over silk style, is being manufactured in two or three shades of woollen gcods, such as petunia ground with a black lace pattern woven over it, or green with a black canvas effect. They will be very pretty, and eagerly welcomed for smart winter frocks ; but it is early yet to talk of winter frocks, and at present the genuine transparency over silk is the most suitable, and when trimmed - as so many of them are —with bright bebe ribbon, they are very dressy and suitable for all and any occasions. It is noticed that the ladies of the Comedie Fram aise wear much smaller hats than those of Englishwomen, whether on or off the stage, and that their skirtshave much less circumference about the hem than those worn by our own countrywomen. This would seem to indicate that we are more prone to exaggerations and eccentricities than the Parisians, and no one can deny that good taste abhors and detests such devices as the huge sleeves and monstrous collars with which Fashion has been garbing the daughters of Albion, to say nothing of the size of the hats, which is often out of all proportion not only to the size of head, but the dimensions of the entire figure. Nearly all the large hats are now made with a band of velvet underneath the brim resting on the hair, so that the hat is raised well off the head. This is found to be much more becoming to some faces than the old method. Occasionally this band is covered with flowers, and sometimes it is formed into a eoronet of jet or steel. THE LATEST FOR LITTLE ONES. A quaint little long frock, which one who delights in odd designs and who can afford enough change to render such things inconspicuous might wish to copy, is for a child two or three years old. It is of the dotted Swiss with four deep flounces which extend from the bottom of the skirt to the waist. The waist, worn over a guimpe, is very short. It has but little fulness, and is finished with a belt of insertion through which two rows of narrow white satin ribbon are run smoothly and fastened with a rosette at the back. The guimpe sleeves are very full with square caps. CfIMPES. There is a change in gnimpes. They are no longer full, and but few silk ones are shown. They are of embroidery or lace, and set smoothly front and back. The favourite summer lace for children is point d'esprit.

Point de gene is considered too heavy for lawns, though it may be used with cr.pons or silk. Narrow valenciennea is used for finishing the bretelles or rutiles of chambray or gingham, but it is not fashionable for dress costumes. A WHITE NAINSOOK. A simple little frock for a child of eight is of white nainsook with a deep hem finished with hem stitching. The waist, worn with a guimpe, consists of four wide box pleats back and front, with a deep bertha of point d esprit fastened up at the shoulders with loops and ends of white satin ribbon. The satin belt passes smoothly about the waist, tied at the back and looped like a sash, though the ends are not more than half a yard long. GINGHAMS AND I‘KJUES. Plaid ginghams are serviceable. New effects ate obtained this year by trimming them with coloured embroidery to match the ground colour These embroideries can be had in red, pink, three shades of blue, and in yellow ; chambrays to match them are sold for yokes, cuffs and girdles. Square yokes are used for white gowns, but round yokes for all others. The reappearance of piques gives mothers one more serviceable material suitable for afternoon wear. The most popular way for making them is with zouave or Eton jackets over lawn vests. The stiff waistcoats so fashionable for ladies are not shown even for misses H ELOISE.