LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume X, Issue 4, 28 January 1893, Page 94

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

FASHIONABLE RACE. BOATING, AND EVENING TOILETTES. (SEE ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE 93.) While it is very evident that black is to be one of the standard colours of the coming season, it is quite certain that there will be used with it a great deal of colour to brighten and give character to this sombre hue. Among the leading colour combinations to be shown for first autumn dresses are holly green and black. There are to be brocades in these colours and also combinations of plain and fancy fabrics in stripes, changeable effects and velvet surfaces. Pink and blaek will be worn, and pale blue and black as well. An order for an early autumn outfit, which will be required during a prolonged tour through the North west, includes a costume of heavy black silk in armure weave with velvet vest, sleeves and ten inch band of bias velvet at the hem of the skirt.

While much is said about the falling off in popularity of short basques and bodices, there is little indication of this change in the newest models which come to us from abroad.

This week’s illustrations exemplify this : The first is an evening gown in pink crepe de Chine, trimmed with pink ribbon bows and lace. The deep folded waistband is secured with a long narrow gold buckle in the centre. No. 2. Ascot race gown in golden-brown figured Indian silk. The folded sash is of plain silk to match. A small lace cape falls over the shouldeis. The upright collar is of the plain silk, but the full sleeves are figured silk. No. 3. Boating dress in blue serge. The seams are outlined with black braiding. The revers to the jacket are similarly ornamented. The shot silk skirt has a frill down the centre.

Fvery woman who makes any pretence of following the fashion wears a skirt and blazer, and the number now being bought is amazing to those who keep track of the markets. Among the new models shown are three suits in moderately light weight English waterproof serge. The skirt is walking length ; the blazer fits almost like a glove at the back, and has either straight, squaie cut fronts or a single dart which gives a slight inward curve. While these are liked by many ladies, they are not as stylish as the straight plain fronts. A corselet comes ready-made with most of these suits; and as shirt-waists are regulation articles with such costumes, a woman may walk into a furnishing store and fit herself out in comfortable style in a very short apace of time and at a very small cost. There are, also, many more chances for getting a well-fitting suit than ever before, as most of the garments are shapely and give evidence of artistic handling, both in the design and finish. And this is one of the comforts of present-day ready-made costumes for womed.

A rather peculiar idea is that of dressing for grouping. Two or three young ladies go out together, one wearing a full suit of white duck, another with a yachting suit of navy blue with red-and-gold trimming, another with a tailor-made costume of some rather pronounced style, and possibly a fourth with the most dressy outfit that the conservative ideas of street-wear will permit.

The last novelty in nuptial ceremonies is a chrysanthemum wedding. The bride is dressed in rich white brocade with the floral design, and carries a shower bouquet of chrysanthemum blossoms, while her attendant maidens are attired in Empire gowns of some delicate tint covered with the flowers in various shades, and wearing toques and bouquets to correspond. This is a pretty idea, and very appropriate to this season of the year, though the notion could of course be carried out with any other flower just as well.

There are several novel ideas in the finish of the skirts of dressy costumes. One model shows a double row of very closely plaited velvet ribbon with a band of metal gimp between, and bows placed at short intervals in such a way that one loop is caught on either row of plaiting. Another similar trimming has three loops attached to the gimp with ends in butterfly fashion. Bands of satin or velvet ribbon are put on plain around skirts, and rows of lace insertion are sometimes alternated with the ribbon. A gathered flounce of lace has a heading of gimp with three-inch-long cords with tassels falling over the flounce. The cords are in pairs, and are arranged about three inches apait. This is novel, but so closely resembles some popular upholstery effects, that it is scarcely likely to obtain general favour among ladies of taste. V ery narrow ruffles either set on with a cord or with a shirred heading are quite as much liked as any of the present styles of finishing. Dresses of plaid wool or silk are worn with long blouses of plain silk or wool. One dress is made of plaid camel’shair. The body is close-fitting, the skirt perfectly plain and of walking length. The full sleeves are of plaid, and a sleeveless blouse of India silk in dark blue, which is the predominant colour in the dress, is worn over it. The blouse skirt extends about ■ one-third of the length of the dress skirt, and is plainly hemmed. A wide belt of silk with a metal buckle is worn with it.

Cream is said to be really adopted in Denmark as the colour for national mourning. While it is to some extent an improvement on black for the same purpose, it is scarcely likely to be adopted in other countries.

Corset-waists are worn by many ladies to the total exclusion of the real corset. Of the latter they own a perfectfitting specimen, over which they have all dresses fitted, then wear the waist on all occasions.

Many ladies have been forced to abandon the use of stocking-straps that attach to the corset. Serious disorders and the most excruciating pain are, in a large number of instances, the result of this practice. Admirable shoulder-wraps are of very fine French cashmere, with hems of bengaline or faille of the same colour. The hems are put on with hemstitching, and make exquisite trimming. White is becoming a fashionable, all-the-year-round colour for house-wear. Elderly ladies, especially those who go out but little, are using it almost exclusively. But little trimming is used on the most fashionable hats and bonnets, but that must be of the most elegant sort. A dark skirt, a mull waist or one of percale, with a blazer is one of the favourite hot-weather outfits of the day. Pink-and-blue checked gingham dresses are trimmed with white lace and satin ribbons.

Poke-shaped bonnets tied with wide ribbon strings are worn by stylish young matrons. Lace is used on almost all materials and for all occasions. Striped fabrics are more popular than ever before. Jewellery for street wear is a thing of the past.