LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume IX, Issue 29, 16 July 1892, Page 724

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

There is little change this month in the fashions as worn in the colony. Most people have their winter costumes, and are only vaguely wondering what they will adopt in the way of spring styles. *** ♦ * * Shaded velvet ribbon is fancied for the pert little bows that are liked on the front of bonnets and little bats. The loops come forward and the two short ends, cut out in Vandyke fashion, stand up as pert as possible. A bow of this sort is sufficient trimming for a small felt bonnet, one of the capote shapes. It does not need to have strings to match it, for they should be of velvet of the same colour as the bonnet itself. A dark blue felt has a bow of scarlet, while the ties are of blue velvet. A bonnet made for evening, but fitting as closely as the felt one, is of green velvet and has a bow of pink, while the ties are of green velvet ribbon. By-the-bye, a new arrangement for the velvet ribbon straps is to bring them forward, cross them under the chin, draw them back and fasten them with a fancy pin well up on the back of the hair. This is the style adopted by Madame Musin. It looks best when the hair is arranged high, as it takes away somewhat from what would be otherwise a bare look. Pins showing imitation diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires are liked for fastening the straps. * * * * * -if- * * * For a large hat a large veil is required, and it is wisest in buying one to get a full yard to drape about your chapeau. Pin it just to the edge of the brim in front, and let the depth that comes over be drawn under your chin in soft, loose folds fastened at the back high up on the hat. These folds tend to give the soft effect desired by strings. ■» * * * * The strings on large hats must be at least two inches wide and sufficiently long to be tied in broad loops and ends a little longer. On almost any hat such strings may be attached, and they can be either of black satin, gros grain, or soft black velvet. Velvet is the most becoming, but the loops refuse to stay in position unless pinned, and the ribbon itself is apt to grow shabby. In times gone by ties decided whether what one wore on one’s head was a hat or a bonnet, but now a-days even Solomon himself could not solve this question. The very latest thing in ladies’ coats forms the subject of my first illustration. The ‘ sack ’is the appropriate name this extremely ugly and ungraceful garment rejoices in. Beyond warmth, which, as we are bidding farewell to winter now is not so important a clause as it might otherwise be, we do not think that the most ardent worshipper at the shrine of fashion could conscientiously claim a single beauty for this new creation of the tailor’s art ; the fact of it being very unlikely to be copied by the mass, and keeping thus de rigueur amongst those who may be considered the best dressers is an advantage perhaps, if it can compensate for levelling the outline of the most graceful figures to that of a superannuated old

pew-opener, which, without the slightest disrespect to either the old ladies themselves or their calling, is not quite what one would expect young, attractive, or elegant women to choose as a model. It is quite possible, however, that the sack, in spite of these objections, may ‘ catch on,’ for we are nothing in fashion if we are not exaggerated, and its very ugliness may be its recommendation in preference to coats less noticeable, if prettier in form and cut. In our righteous wrath we must not forget to add a few notes of description to give any explanation the sketch may require. The coat is cut quite, or a little more than half length, and as perfectly straight as possible, the back piece being entirely so, without seam at all. The seam joining back to front is left open a very short way from the bottom of coat to allow of a little freedom in walking, and the whole of the garment is stitched round with several rows of machine stitching ; it is made in most coloured cloths, bnt the favourite shade is fawn. * * * * * # This is an age for the artistic in gowns, especially in evening robes, and for smart occasions. My second sketch is a pretty example for a reception, or soiree, a concert platform, or At Home. Pale amber Pongee silk is the material of the gown, made a la Princesse, with sac from the back of the open throat. The front is formed of fully gathered chiffon of the same tint with a full frill round the throat, and tied in at bust and waist by narrow ribbon of

pale amber, a corresponding arrangement finishing the bottom of the skirt. Brown bear fur edges the silk portion of the robe, con-

tinuing round the back of neck under the chiffon frill, from under which the sac also starts. The fully gathered sleeves are of chiffon tied with ribbon, and the gown fastens down the left side.